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Class_-rgi_5__ 
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Copyiightl^^ 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Ube 1knicf?erbocl?er Xtterature 
Series 



Edited bv Frank Lincoln Olmsted 



THE FIRST ISSUES ARE : 

I, — Episodes from the Winning of the West. 
By Theodore Roosevelt. 

II. — Abraham Lincoln : His Boyhood and 
Early Manhood, with a Brief Account 
OF HIS Later Life. By Noah Brooks. 

III. — The Fur Traders of the Columbia 
River and the Rocky Mountains as 
Described by Washington Irving in his 
Account of "Astoria" and the Record 
of the " Adventures of Captain Bon- 
neville." 

IV. — The Last of the Mohicans. By James 
Fenimore Cooper. 



G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS 

NEW YORK AND LONDON 











The Fur Traders 

of the Columbia River and 
the Rocky Mountains 

As Described by 

Washington Irving 

In his Account of "Astoria," and the Record of 
" The Adventures of Captain Bonneville " 

With Some Additions hy, the. Editor... 


' 1 


















•3^ 




G. P. Putnam's Sons 

New York and London 

S^^e |lnick£rbochu ^rtss 
1903 




^^ 



















THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two Copies Receivad 

MAY 19 1903 

Copytight Entry 
CLASS) (t^ XXc. No. 

lit d c ir- 

COPY 8. 



Copyright, iqo3 



G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS 



Published, May, 1903 



*'?: 



TTbe Tkniclietbocfiet i^resai flew iQocft 



EDITOR'S PRKFACK 

IRVING'S narratives depicting the facts and the 
romances of trapper life, and relating the efforts of 
organised fur trading in the Far West, present, in their 
particular field, the most interesting account yet pro- 
duced of those fascinating phases of pioneer life. Irving 
infused the tragedy of Astoria with the patriotic interest 
that belonged to it, and that lifted it far above the level 
of mere commercial failure. In the Adventures of Cap- 
tain Bonneville he drew a general picture of the mount- 
ain trading at the height of its greatest revival; and 
with the skill of an artist he fixed indelibly for the mind 
many interesting scenes that were destined soon to 
vanish. 

Irving drew the materials for these two stories from 
a wide acquaintance with the prime movers in the great 
undertakings he described, and from much personal 
and private information that is no longer available. In 
fact, his interest in the fur traders amounted to a pas- 
sion that kept him in touch with the whole movement 
of affairs on the frontier. 

In spite, however, of his intimate knowledge of the 
men and their deeds, Irving admitted that it was "diffi- 
cult to do justice to the courage and perseverance of 
the pioneers of the fur trade, who first broke their way 
through a wilderness where everything was calculated 
to deter and dismay them, who traversed the most desol- 
ate mountains and launched themselves in frail canoes 
without knowing whither the swift current would carry 



iv Editor's Preface 

them, nor what rocks and rapids they might encounter 
in their course. The mountain tribes, too, beset their 
path, or attacked them in their night encampments; 
so that of the bands of hardy trappers that first entered 
those regions, three fifths are said to have fallen by the 
hands of savage foes." 

That the record of such men and of such deeds be- 
came interesting and readable under the pen of Irving 
is a fact creditable to that writer and fortunate for the 
student; and it should have given no ofience to the 
ponderous historian who staked out trans-Mississippi 
as his particular " claim." So it is now recorded with 
particular satisfaction that a recent examination, by a 
competent authority,' has established beyond question 
Irving' s accuracy and sound judgment. 

The nature of the present volume has prevented 
anything more than a reference to the other daring 
enterprises in the regions that are the wonderland of 
the world, and are still the borderland of romance. In 
order, however, that the reader may get a suggestion 
of the activities growing out of the rich rewards of 
the fur trade, he is provided with a table of Important 
Events, which has been greatly enriched by names and 
dates drawn from the recent researches of Captain 
Chittenden, whose extensive and original investigations 
have resulted in a well-rounded and accurate history 
of the fur trade of the Far West. The editor's thanks 
are gladly paid him for these helps and for the many 
illuminating side-lights on the text. 

F. L. O. 

Pine Lodge, 1903. 

1 The American Fur Trade of the Far West, by Hiram 
Martin Chittenden, Captain Corps of Engineers, U, S. A., pp. 
239-246 and 432-433- 



CONTENTS 



Important Events . 
I. — ^The Northwest Company 
II. — ^The American Fur Company 
III. — Outward Bound . 
IV.— Astoria .... 
v.— The Loss of the " Tonquin" 
VI. — Up the Missouri 
VII.— The Tetons 
VIII. — Cai,dron IvINn . 
IX.— The Indians of Wish-Ram 
X. — Love and War . 
XI. — Treachery or Vai.our? . 
XII.— Readjustment and Growth 
XIII.— Pierre's Hoi,e . 
XIV.— The Nez PERci» . 
XV.— The Rendezvous 1833 
XVI.— The Crow Country . 
XVII.— The Wind River Mountains 
XVIII.— Down the Coi,umbia . 
XIX.— She-wee-she 
XX.— A Voyage in a Bui,l-Boat . 
XXI.— Fare WEI.I, to the Mountains 
XXII.— The Last of the Companies 
Index 

V 



PA6B 

ix 

I 
8 

15 
21 
26 
35 
53 
62 

71 
84 
91 
99 
106 
119 

131 

141 
149 
161 

175 
188 
197 
208 
219 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

A Banquet in the WiItDERness . . Frontispiece ^ 

From a drawing by F. S. Church. 

Astoria in i8ii 24 /^ 

Based on a print in Gray's " History of Oregon." 

An Indian Agency on the Missouri River . . . 54 " 
From an old engraving. 

Cascades of the Col,umbia River 76 - 

From a photograph. 

Heroism OF A Woman OF THE Nez Perc^ . . .112 
Engraved from a drawing by F. S. Church. 

The Punch Bowi, 138 

The Crater of the Grotto Geyser . . . .164 

Multnomah Fai,i,s 190 

From a photograph. 

Fort Union, a Trading Post on The Missouri . . 212 -^ 
Redrawn from a sketch made during a Government 
Survey of the Pacific Railroad. 



IMPORTANT EVENTS 

1670— The Hudson Bay Company is chartered by Charles II. 
for the purpose of purchasing skins and furs from the 
Indians of British North America. 

1762 — France loses possession of Canada. 

Overland trade with Santa F6 began somewhat before 
this date. 

11^2,— John Jacob Astoris born in "Walldorf, Germany, 

1764 — Maxent, Laclede, and Company, of New Orleans, 
establish a trading-post and village which they name 
St. Louis, having been granted by Louis XV. a monopoly 
of the trade on the Missouri and Mississippi rivers. 

1783— y. J. Asfor sails for Baltimore; begins his career as a 
fur merchant. 

1787 — The Northwest Company is formed at Montreal by 
successful Scotch merchants who have been independ- 
ent dealers in furs. Alexander Mackenzie, a partner, 
begins explorations which bring him to the Pacific in 
1793- The company employs David Thompson to 
survey the 49th parallel (the international boundary 
later), and to locate trading-posts. 

1792 — The Columbia River is discovered by Captain Gray in the 
ship Columbia. 

1798 — The Russian-American Fur Company is organised for 
trade along the north-west coast of North America. It 
selects Sitka for its port of deposit and trade. 

1803 — ^The Purchase of Louisiana from France. The terri- 
tory comprised nearly the entire region from the 
Mississippi to the crest of the Rocky Mountains, and 
from Texas to Canada. 



X Important Events 

1804-6 — The Lewis and Ci,ark Expedition to the mouth of 
the Columbia River and return, opening up the great 
fur-producing region of the country. 

1804-10— ybAw Coulter, having accompanied Lewis and Clark, 
returns to the mountains to trap. Meets Lisa. 
"Coulter's Route in 1807." Discovers the Yellow- 
stone Wonderland; escapes from the Blackfeet; returns 
to St. Louis in 1810, alone in a canoe, 3000 miles in 30 
days. 

1806-7 — Pike's Expi^oraTions through Kansas and Colorado, 
and southward to Santa F6. Pike's Peak. Baptiste 
Le Lande. James Purcell. Spanish expedition, 
under Malgares far into the territory of the United 
States. 

1807 — Manuel Lisa ascends the Missouri and Yellowstone, 
building his post, Fort Lisa, near the mouth of the 
Big Horn; repeats the trip almost yearly until 1820. 
A small detachment of troops is sent to conduct to his 
home the Mandan chief who was brought down the 
river by Lewis and Clark. The soldiers are beaten 
back by the Aricaras and are forced to return. 

1808— The Missouri Fur Company is begun by Auguste 
Chouteau, Jr., Pierre Chouteau, Sr., William Clark 
(Lewis and Clark), Andrew Henry, and others. Its 
history is that of its moving spirit, Manuel Lisa. Its 
first expedition, in 1809, is an tinusually strong one 
for the purpose of establishing many posts, and to 
restore to his people the Mandan chief mentioned 
above. 

The company is reorganised in 1812 and again in 1819. 

The American Fur Company is incorporated by John 
Jacob As for to comprise all his operations in diflferent 
parts of the country. 

1810 — The Blackfeet Indians make repeated attacks on the post 
of the Missouri Fur Company at the Three Forks of 
the Missouri, driving Andrew Henry thence over the 
Divide to the north branch of the Snake River. He 
returns to St. Louis the next year (181 1). 



Important Events xi 

The Pacific Fur Company {i.e.. The American Fur 
Company) is organised, being recruited largely from 
the Northwest Company, which refuses Mr. Astor's 
oflFer of an alliance. 

The Sea Expedition of the Pacific Fur Company sets 
sail September 6th, in the ship Tonquin, and reaches 
the Columbia River, March 25, 1811. After Astoria 
is established, the Tonquin is sent on a trading voyage 
to the northward. In Nootka Sound, Vancouver 
Island, the ship is attached by treacherous Indians, 
and is destroyed together with all on board. 

The Overland Expedition of the Pacific Fur Company, 
under the command of Wilson P. Hunt, starts from 
St. I/Ouis, October 21, 1810; winters near the present 
St. Joseph, Missouri, and sets out again April 21, 
1811. They race to keep ahead of Lisa; procure horses 
of the Aricaras and proceed by land; reach Henry's 
abandoned fort, October nth. Losses and disasters in 
descending the Snake River; separation into numerous 
small parties, most of which reach Astoria by the 15th 
of February, 1812. 

181 1 — Mr. Astor and certain partners in the Northwest Com- 
pany buy out the Mackinaw Company (another British 
company operating around the Great Lakes and the 
sources of the Mississippi River) and form it into the 
Southwest Company. 
A conflict is precipitated in the rivalry between the 
Hudson Bay Company and the Northwest Company 
by the former granting the Red River Valley (near 
Lake Winnipeg) to Lord Selkirk. 

1812 — The annual ship, the Beaver, reaches Astoria, May 
loth. Reed visits the caches; Robert Stuart starts 
overland to carry reports to New York; and Hunt sails 
for New Archangel to carry out the arrangement with 
the Russian Fur Company. 

1813— The partners at Astoria learn of the Declaration of 
War against Great Britain, and on July ist they pub- 
licly announce their intention to abandon the enter- 
prise. Hunt is delayed; the annual ship, the Lark, is 



'«aet^s£; saif of aL rhe prot»srrr o: the Tacrfi- Pm 
Cuiupwrv tr the Ncrtirwss: Cotnparr, Cteohsr 13^; 
arrrcal oii^ts Brnisfa trigBTe. J^acaiPK., October ^ociu 

ifili — Airil od. Hunt saSs for Nev York -wiOi Sie rsmxast 
of :iie Astarians "wiu^ die. no: sntsr the sm^HovmsBX of 
tbe ^worttwsc Cnamwinr. 

3&6— CnnsJsss ssiindes foreigBSTs iron: Tfflrticq MitiuL in tijs 
for zradf of rbe Puirsc Sraies erreiv: in st^Msr^iude 
CHpftTTTrgs. Mr. Asw*- lake? ovsr the rmsiBes? of tbe 
Norfbwss: Comparr iying witbir ibe hconidarie? of 
tm "Dniisc. Sa:res, buz. merges rha: auc his owr Soinib- 
•w^ Comparv ir the Amsncar Pur Compainr: bm 
mfe XT ss: tbf nsrs^arr iinliiary sagjjiart for 3e- 
oce nyvin g AstonE anc tbe ColinDnia TaHev, 

^taS — -Br usaTT- "wiih Gxrsa: Brhain., -ite comnrr on the uorth- 
•wsc ross: of America, -wssrwarc of "±ie lvo:iy Motan- 
ains. ciannec by sirher rotmtrr . is tr be otenen for an 
years for thf Tmrposes of traoe to the inhabitants of 
both the Tmiisc. States anc i3jeat Britain, with egnal 
T^fc of ngrxgarmg aH is irvas. l^ns ai'iKiigempnt 
s lene^B^ -withom change it 1S2S. 

lift^ i!tr I rmg-^s £.srpedizict% c thonsanc men an£ nre srsEm- 
Imas stars for the Tello^cstane to ckear the Ppper 
Iff-Hg^onrl tram Britsh tiafieis and iC' free the Indians 
hull, iarsigt. infinence. It prrwes a complete faxhire, 
reaching oniy tbe pressm srie of Omaha and returning; 
i r uiL the^ the folJoving suriu g. vher Cxmoreg remses 
a mrtbe' ap ur u ij~i an oti . 

ifiao — Ifeflth of Manuel Z,isc inst at the bs^rimdng of the 
Tsvirol in tiie fnr trade. Jcshuc Jhichsr succeeds kim 
as the head of Uie MJasonr: Pnr HjompBrj. 

xS-t:— Absonnion of the 2^arttwest Compery by the Hn&on 

Set ~' ii it n > n T n Tbev abandon AstoriE and bnTir Port 

Tancoir^^r. a bnndred Tn-Tt-pg . farther m; the Colnmbia. 

romosice the montt of the ITiHamene SLrrer. 

Pariiamsnt sxdndss AmericHns from the rvnaffign ftc 



Impcrt^Lnt Events xiii 

Th^ A mpsr.cjixi Pnr Cnuxpasy ■wtHhOxsan nran. ita ^errrtnrj 

The COLTiCBlA r ^rsi ^OMP^jtt :s roraiei 'ly Jaaner^ R^n- 
tnlle itid ither ^srriftriencad. 3ietL -who ^*ire -rtqnis/-(»>f 
by the ^aILVlLuiatuj^. -rf -Jie N^ortkweat ^imcany -with. 
die Hudson Say Cimoaiij. It Tompetea activeiy iritfa. 
tile Amerrcan P-ir Corapany m the TCper^'aileTS of tiie 
Mississippi 3iui iCssottri. 

ifca — Wiiliant H. Azhiey sends iis 5rst ^^seditifni -m "iie 
Missouri inder :he rcimmsn&. nt Andrear Henry. 

Severe: losses of zoctiz. Hnrg^^, ami ttp^ Toe irst ise 
of Sontb ?-isa. 
Tie Ampr^ran par CoittDairv g'«-3hiTg*T«°^ -fTt "V'^stsm 
Departmerc at St. Lauis. m the hamia of Stone. 3cst- 
wick- snd Cnrapany: ant '"haTTg^a it in issr za Zemard 
Prstte arui Ininpairy. 

rS^ — Ashley, bsvinq ^nymrixmefi Henry 'ja die nwruli of the 

which is badly iefeated by the -^nr^Trg. *iih the '<•»» 
of fcnrtesn rnerr. Cjianei Leasjeirzartk jeads 3. re- 
taiiatory «=sppfitrioii agmTT.sr the Aricrras. bur acrrnir- 

ptishFf- -rn rhrng - 

Pilcher seids -psx. i larse tradiiiff parry, •winch 3 sm- 
hn ^^ by the HIackfes. ive "■g^'FTpft Janes ^rrrf >n.- 
meTi, and aDtir ■^■rjtmded. Gwma' to the heavy ziniiey 
loES 'm this saedinoii and late- -mes. the iCsstmri 
For Canrnany becomes esnncr aboiir rS^c 

1S24. — Etienne Provost, bavtns thar^e if me of Jt~hiey ~ par- 
ties, is treachernnsiy aitacked m the shores i£ Ttah 
Lake, and loses n.eari'^ ail bis "npn 
Ashley devises the rendezz:aits to take die place of the 
post syaten of trade. 

1824-1343 — ^Y^as of the greats a4"Jviiy in the .SnTra F6 trade. 

which is tamed on encreiv bv indivtdnai tradeis. 

Govemmeit Htr-rey of the Santa 54 rrail in 3*2.5- 

The trade is prohibited in iS^j- 
1824.-25 — Ashley sends Hertry Ocrofaer' to the nonntams. xna. 

ttiUows November; with anothe' 'j anv . ascsiding ~b«* 



xiv Important Events 

Platte ; winters on the Green River, wliere Provost 
finds him. He explores to the west and south of the 
Great Salt Lake; secures a wonderfully rich cargo 
of furs, which he embarks for St. Louis via the Yellow- 
stone and Missouri rivers, utilising the troops of the 
Yellowstone Expedition as an escort from the mouth 
of the Yellowstone. The rendezvous for 1825 is held 
in the Green River Valley. 

1825 — Yellowstone Expedition is authorised by Congress for 
the purpose of making treaties with the Indians along 
the Missouri, who had been restless and troublesome 
since 1812. General Henry Atkinson and Major 
O' Fallon are successful iu their negotiations. 

1826 — Ashley makes his last trip to the mountains, taking with 
him a wheeled cannon (first vehicle) to his post on 
Utah Lake. He sells out his fur business to Smithy 
Jackson^ and Sublette, who had been active partisans. 

1826-29 — Smith starts from the rendezvous in Cache Valley ; ex- 
plores the Colorado River ; and crosses the deserts to 
San Diego, Cal. He returns nearly alone to the ren- 
dezvous for 182 J at Great Salt Lake ; then recrosses to 
California, losing ten men at the hands of the Mojave 
Indians, who are incited by the Spanish authorities ; 
forfeits all his property and is released from arrest on 
condition of leaving the country ; gathers his men and 
slowly ascends the Sacramento (winter 1827-28) ; is 
attacked by Indians in July, 1828, and escapes alone, 
making his way to Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia ; 
recovers his furs with the aid of the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany, and returns to his partners in the spring of 
1829, after a severe fight with the Blackfeet Indians. 

1827 — The Columbia Fur Company is transferred to the Ameri- 
can Fur Company, retaining its organisation ; there- 
after known as the Upper Missouri Outfit, the 
"U. M. O." 

1828— Fort Floyd (afterward called Union) is built at the mouth 
of the Yellowstone. 

1830 — Sublette reinforces his partners at the rendezvous on the 



Important Events xv 

Wind River with a force of eighty-one men and ten 
■waggons (the first used on the Oregon Trail). The part- 
ners sell out to Fitzpatrick, M. G. Sublette, Fraeb, 
Gervais, and Bridger, — the Rocky Mountain Fur 
Company. 

1831 — Smith, Jackson, and Sublette enter the Santa Fd trade, 
sending out twenty waggons. Smith is killed by the 
Comanches in the Cimarron Desert. Fitzpatrick takes 
this roundabout way to bring out supplies, and is so 
delayed by the trouble in which Smith perishes that 
he arrives too late for the rendezvous. 

1832 — ^The famous rendezvous at Pierre'' s Hole, July 8th-i7th. 
Present two hundred trappers of the Rocky Mountain 
Fur Company, a large party of the American Fur 
Company, N. J. Wyeth, with his New Englanders, 
and many Indians and free trappers. Captain Bonne- 
ville is approaching. Competition is keen and threat- 
ens to be ruinous. 
The Battle of Pierre's Hole (Teton Basin), July 18th. 
A detachment returning from Wyeth's party is attacked 

by Blackfeet, July 25th. 
Voyage of the steamer Yellowstone from St. Louis to the 
mouth of the Yellowstone and return, April i6th-July 
7th. George Catlin. 
Congress forbids the importation of liquor into the 
Indian country, RPKenzie orders a complete still for 
use at Fort Union. 

1832-35— Four Nez Perc^ Indians visit St. Louis in the fall 
to get instruction in the Christian religion. The 
Methodists send Jason and Daniel Lee (1834) under 
the protection of Wyeth's party. In 1835 Marcus Whit- 
man and Samuel Parker go as missionaries. 

1832-35 — Captain Bonneville reaches the Green River July 
27th ; builds Fort Bonneville ; but winters on the 
Salmon River. Meets W^^/-^ (1833); Green River r.?«- 
dezvous; sends out the Walker Expedition (July 24, 
i833^une i, 1834) ; despatches Cerr^ to St. Louis 
with furs ; winters on the Portneuf River. Makes a 
personal trip down the Columbia (Christmas, 1833-May 



xvi Important Events 

12, 1834) ; rendezvo7is in the Bear River Valley (1834) ; 
despatches Walker and Cerre with the year's furs ; 
winters on the Bear River. A^ain visits the Columbia 
(1835); meets his men at the Forks of the Wind River ; 
and returns to the settlements, August 22, 1835. 

1832-36 — N.J. Wyeth forms a company for trading in the val- 
ley of the Columbia ; starts from Boston vnth twenty 
men ; present at battle of Pierre'^ Hole ; reaches Fort 
Walla Walla, October 14th. Mountain journey (1833) ; 
meets Bonneville ; bull-boat trip. Brings out merchan- 
dise (1834) for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company ; 
builds Fort Hall and Fort William. Explorations (1835). 
Returns to Cambridge in 1836. 

1833 — Rendezvous at the head of the Green River (June 15th- 
24th). The contract with Wyeth. Fitzpatrick is robbed 
of all his goods and horses (100) by the Crows. 
The Battle of Fort HfKenzie, seven killed, twenty 
wounded. Maxitnilian, Prince of Wied, ascends the 
Missouri and winters at Fort Clark. 
Wyeth reports illicit distilling at Fort Union. 

1834 — The Rocky Mountain Fur Company is dissolved at the 
rendezvous on the Green River, having repudiated its 
contract with Wyeth. 

Mr. Astor sells the American Fur Company (Northern 
Department) to Ramsay Crooks, and the Western De- 
partment to Pratte, Chouteau, and Company. 

M^Kenzie retires from Fort Union in consequence of the 
distillery episode. 

Colonel Dodge conducts a military expedition from Fort 
Gibson to reduce the Indians along the Santa F^ route. 

1836-40— y. N. Nicollet carries on valuable and accurate ex- 
plorations in the valleys of the Mississippi and Mis- 
souri rivers; is accompanied hy John C. Frimonf. 

1837 — Smallpox is introduced all along the Missouri by the 
steamboat of the American Fur Company; and it almost 
destroys the Mandans and many other tribes, and has 
a disastrous effect upon the fur traders. 

1838 — Father De Smet begins his work among the Indians. 



Important Events xvii 

Pierre Chouteau, Jr., and Company succeed the firm 
of Pratte, Chouteau, and Company. 

1842 — FretnonVs first expedition to the Rocky Mountains ; 
he examines South Pass and the Wind River Mount- 
ains. Fremont's Peak (13,570 feet). 

1842-43 — Whitntati makes his romantic return to the States in 
the dead of winter via Santa Fd. 

i^^2>— James Bridger builds Fort Bridger for the accommoda- 
tion of immigrants. 
The naturalist, Audubon, ascends the Missouri in the 

annual steamer. Omega, of the " U. M. O." 
The Blackfoot Massacre at Fort M'Kenzie, planned by 
Harvey and Chardon. 

1843-44 — Fremont explores the region of the Great Salt Lake, 
descends the Columbia, and returns by the way of 
California to Kansas. 

1845 — Harvey, Primeau, and Company, former employees of 
the American Fur Company, carry on an eflfective 
opposition to the older company. 

1846 — Frhnont frees Northern California from Mexican rule 
(Mexican War) and is elected Governor by the Ameri- 
can settlers. He is appointed commissioner in 1849 to 
run the boundary line between the United States and 
Mexico. 

1859 — Expiration of the charter and the license of the Hudson 
Bay Company. Its territory is opened to all alike. It 
cedes its territorial possessions, the Hudson Bay Ter- 
ritory, to the Dominion of Canada in 1870. 

1867 — The Russian-American Fur Company sells its property 
and rights to the United States at the same time that 
Alaska is transferred. 



THE FUR TRADERS OF THE 
COLUMBIA RIVER 



CHAPTER I 

the; northwest company 

TWO leading objects of gain gave birth to wide and 
daring enterprise in the early history of the 
Americas: the precious metals of the South, and the 
rich peltries of the North. While the fiery and mag- 
nificent Spaniard, inflamed with the mania for gold, 
extended his discoveries and conquests over those bril- 
liant countries scorched by the ardent sun of the tropics, 
the adroit Frenchman, the calculating Briton, and the 
plodding Dutchman, pursued the traffic in furs amidst 
the more northern regions until they advanced even 
within the Arctic Circle. 

The French adventurers, who settled on the banks 
of the St. lyawrence, soon found that, in the rich peltries 
of the interior, they had sources of wealth that rivalled 
the mines of Mexico and Peru. The trade increased, 
and was drawn from remote regions to Montreal ; and 
there grew up with this trade a new class of men, the 
rangers of the woods {coureurs de bois), who became, 



2 The Fur Traders 

as it were, tlie peddlers of the wilderness. These loose 
adventurers gradually corrupted the Indians and were 
forbidden to trade into the interior of the country with- 
out a license. 

At length it was found necessary to establish fortified 
posts at the confluence of the rivers and the lakes for 
the protection of the trade, and the restraint of these 
profligates of the wilderness. The most important of 
these was at Mackinac, an island situated at the strait 
of the same name which connects L,akes Huron and 
Michigan. Here new expeditions were fitted out and 
took their departure for I^ake Michigan and the Mis- 
sissippi, Ivake Superior and the Northwest; and here 
the peltries brought in return were embarked for 
Montreal. 

The French traders at first had matters quite their 
own way along the St. I^awrence and the Lakes, as did 
the Dutch East India Company in New Netherland 
with its chief posts at Beaverwyck (Albany) and New 
Amsterdam (New York). After New Netherland fell 
into the hands of the English (1664), the Canadian 
traders found troublesome competitors in the British 
merchants of New York, who inveigled the Indians 
and the coureiu^s de bois to their posts, and traded with 
them on more favourable terms. A still more formida- 
ble opposition was organised in the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany, chartered by Charles II., in 1670, with the 
exclusive privilege of establishing trading-houses on 
the shore of Hudson Bay and its tributary rivers; a 
monopoly which was maintained until 1859. 

In 1763 the French lost possession of Canada, and 
the fur trade fell principally into the hands of British 
subjects. It was then pursued with much eagerness 
by individual merchants who injured the trade by 



The Northwest Company 3 

their attempts to outbid and undermine each other; 
the Indians were debauched by liquors; while bloody- 
feuds took place between rival trading parties, when 
they happened to meet in the lawless depths of the 
wilderness. 

To put an end to this ruinous strife, several of the 
principal merchants of Montreal formed a partnership 
in the winter of 1783, which, by being merged in a 
rival company in 1787, became the famous " Northwest 
Company, ' ' This for a time held lordly sway over the 
wintry lakes and boundless forests of Canada. 

To behold the Northwest Company in all its state 
and grandeur, it was necessary to witness an annual 
gathering at Fort William, near what is called the 
Grand Portage, on Lake Superior. Here two or three 
of the leading partners from Montreal proceeded once 
a year to meet the partners from the various trading- 
posts of the wilderness, to discuss the affairs of the com- 
pany during the preceding year, and to arrange plans 
for the future. 

The partners from Montreal, however, quite eclipsed 
their compeers from the woods, whose forms and faces 
had been battered and hardened by hard living and 
hard service, and whose garments and equipments 
were all the worse for wear. Indeed the partners from 
below considered the whole dignity of the company as 
represented in their persons, and conducted themselves 
in suitable style. They ascended the rivers in great 
state, like sovereigns making a progress. They were 
wrapped in rich furs, their huge canoes freighted with 
every convenience and luxury, and manned by Cana- 
dian voyageurs, as obedient as Highland clansmen. 
Happy were they, too, if they could meet with some 
distinguished stranger; above all, some titled member 



4 The Fur Traders 

of the British nobility, to accompany them on this 
stately occasion, and grace their high solemnities. 

Fort William, the scene of this important annual 
meeting, was a considerable village on the banks of 
Lake Superior. Here, in an immense wooden build- 
ing, was the great council hall, as also the banqueting 
chamber, decorated with Indian arms and accoutre- 
ments, and the trophies of the fur trade. Grave and 
weighty councils were alternated by huge feasts and 
revels. The tables in the great banqueting-room 
groaned under the weight of game of all kinds, and 
there was no stint of generous wine; for it was a time 
of loyal toasts and brimming bumpers. 

While the chiefs revelled in hall, and made the raf- 
ters resound with bursts of loyalty and old Scottish 
songs, chanted in voices cracked and sharpened by the 
northern blast, their merriment was echoed and pro- 
longed by a mongrel legion of retainers, Canadian 
voyageurs, half-breeds, Indian hunters, and vagabond 
hangers-on, who feasted sumptuously without on the 
crumbs that fell from their table, and made the welkin 
ring with old French ditties, mingled with Indian yelps 
and yellings. 

The success of the Northwest Company stimulated 
further enterprise in this opening and apparently 
boundless field of profit. The traflSc of that company 
lay principally in the high northern latitudes, while 
there were immense regions to the south and west, 
known to abound with valuable peltries; but which, as 
yet, had been but little explored by the fur trader. A 
new association of British merchants was therefore 
formed to prosecute the trade in this direction, and it 
was commonly called the Mackinaw Company, from the 
fact that its chief factory was on Mackinac Island. 



The Northwest Company 5 

The Government of the United States began to view 
with a wary eye the growing influence thus acquired 
by combinations of foreigners over the aboriginal 
tribes inhabiting its territories, and endeavoured to 
counteract it. For this purpose, as early as 1796, the 
government sent out agents to establish rival trading- 
houses on the frontier, so as to supply the wants of the 
Indians, to link their interests and feelings with those 
of the people of the United States, and to divert this 
important branch of trade into national channels. The 
expedition, however, was unsuccessful; but what the 
government failed to effect with all its patronage and 
all its agents was at length brought about by the enter- 
prise and perseverance of a single merchant, one of its 
adopted citizens. 

John Jacob Astor, the individual in question, was 
born in the honest little German village of Waldorf, 
near Heidelberg, on the banks of the Rhine. He, while 
yet a mere stripling, left his home, and launched him- 
self amid the busy scenes of lyondon. At the close of 
the American Revolution he was still in lyondon; but he 
had already determined to follow an older brother and 
to seek his fortune in the United States. Investing 
a small sum in merchandise suited to the American 
market, he embarked, in 1783, in a ship bound to 
Baltimore. 

On the way Mr. Astor became acquainted with a 
countryman of his, a furrier by trade, who cheerfully 
gave him all the information in his power as to the 
qualitj'' and value of diflferent furs, and the mode of 
carrying on the trafl&c. He subsequently accompanied 
him to New York, and, by his advice, Mr. Astor was in- 
duced to invest the proceeds of his merchandise in furs. 
With these he sailed from New York to London in 



6 The Fur Traders 

1784, disposed of them advantageously, made himself 
further acquainted with the course of the trade, and re- 
turned the same year to New York. 

As yet, trade in peltries was not organised in the 
United States, and could not be said to form a regular 
line of business. Furs and skins were casually col- 
lected by the country traders in their dealings with the 
Indians or the white hunters, but the main supply was 
derived from Canada. As Mr. Astor's means increased, 
he made annual visits to Montreal, where he purchased 
furs from the houses engaged in the trade. 

In 1795, a treaty with Great Britain removed the re- 
strictions imposed upon the trade with the colonies, and 
opened a direct commercial intercourse between Canada 
and the United States. Mr. Astor was in London at 
the time, and immediately made a contract with the 
agents of the Northwest Fur Company for furs. He 
was now enabled to import them from Montreal into 
the United States for the home supply, and to ship 
them thence to different parts of Europe, as well as to 
China, which has ever been the best market for the 
richest and finest kinds of peltry. 

The treaty in question provided, likewise, that the 
military posts occupied by the British within the 
territorial limits of the United States should be 
surrendered. Accordingly Oswego, Niagara, Detroit, 
Mackinac, and other posts on the American side of the 
Lakes, were given up, and an opening was thus made 
for American merchants. After an interval of some 
years, about 1807, Mr. Astor embarked in this trade on 
his own account. His capital and resources had by this 
time greatly augmented, and he had risen from small 
beginnings to take his place among the first merchants 
and financiers of the country. 



The Northwest Company 7 

He was aware of the wish of the American Govern- 
ment, already stated, that the fur trade within its 
boundaries should be in the hands ot American citizens, 
and of the ineffectual measures it had taken to accom- 
plish that object. He now offered, if aided and pro- 
tected by the government, to turn the whole of that 
trade into American channels ; and to that end he ob- 
tained, in 1809, a charter from the legislature of the 
State of New York, incorporating a company under the 
name of the American Fur Company, 

As the Mackinaw Company still continued its rivalry, 
and as the fur trade would not advantageously admit of 
competition, he bought out the Mackinaw Company, in 
1811, and merged that into what might be called the 
Northern Department of the American Fur Company, 
to be known as the Southwest Company. 



CHAPTER II 

ThK AMERICAN FUR COMPANY 

WHIIyE the various companies we have noticed 
were pushing their enterprises far and wide in 
the wilds of Canada, and along the course of the great 
western waters, other adventurers, intent on the same 
objects, were traversing the watery wastes of the Pa- 
cific and skirting the north-west coast of America. 

Among the American ships which traded along the 
north-west coast in 1792 was the Columbia, Captain 
Gray, of Boston. In the course of her voyage she dis- 
covered the mouth of a large river in lat. 46° 19' north. 
Entering it with some diflSculty, on account of sand- 
bars and breakers, she came to anchor in a spacious 
bay. A boat was well manned and sent on shore to a 
village on the beach, but all the inhabitants fled except- 
ing the aged and infirm. The kind manner in which 
these were treated, and the presents given to them, 
gradually lured back the others, and a friendly inter- 
course took place. They had never seen a ship or a 
white man. 

Captain Gray did not ascend the river farther than 
the bay in question, which continues to bear his name. 
After putting to sea, he fell in with the celebrated dis- 
coverer, Vancouver, and informed him of his discovery, 
furnishing him with a chart which he had made of the 
river. Vancouver visited the river, and his lieutenant, 

8 



The American Fur Company 9 

Broughton, explored it by the aid of Captain Gray's 
chart; ascending it upwards of one hundred miles, 
until within view of a snowy mountain, to which 
he gave the name of Mount Hood. This it still 
retains. 

After a time the attention of the American Govern- 
ment was attracted to the subject of an overland route 
to the Pacific, and the memorable expedition under 
Messrs. Lewis and Clark was fitted out. These gen- 
tlemen, in 1804, ascended the Missouri, passed through 
the stupendous gates of the Rocky Mountains, hitherto 
unknown to white men, discovered and explored the 
upper waters of the Columbia, and followed that river 
down to its mouth, where their countryman. Gray, had 
anchored about twelve years previously. Here they 
passed the winter, and returned across the mountains 
in the following spring. Their reports demonstrated 
the practicability of establishing a line of communica- 
tion across the continent, from the Atlantic to the 
Pacific Ocean. 

It was then that the idea presented itself to the mind 
of Mr. Astor of grasping with his individual hand this 
great enterprise, namely, to establish a line of trading 
posts along the Missouri and the Columbia, to the 
mouth of the latter, and to found there the chief trad- 
ing-house or mart. There, too, coasting craft would 
be built and fitted out to trade, at favourable seasons, 
all along the north-west coast, and return, with the pro- 
ceeds of their vogages, to this place of deposit. A ship 
was to be sent annually from New York to this main 
establishment with reinforcements and supplies, and 
with merchandise suited to the trade. It would take 
on board the furs collected during the preceding year, 
carry them to Canton, invest the proceeds in the rich 



lO The Fur Traders 

merchandise of China, and return thus freighted to 
New York. 

Mr. Astor now prepared to carry his scheme into 
prompt execution. He had some competition, how- 
ever, to apprehend and guard against. The Northwest 
Company had pushed one or two advance trading 
posts across the Rocky Mountains, into a tract of 
country about two degrees north of the Columbia, and 
lying between the territories of the United States and 
those of Russia. But their posts beyond the mountains 
had to be supplied in yearly expeditions, like caravans, 
from Montreal, and the furs conveyed back in the same 
way, by long, precarious, and expensive routes across 
the continent. Mr. Astor, on the contrary, would be 
able to supply his proposed establishment at the mouth 
of the Columbia b}^ sea, and to ship the furs collected 
there directly to China, so as to undersell the North- 
west Company in the great Chinese market. 

Still, the competition of two rival companies west of 
the Rocky Mountains could not but prove detrimental 
to both, and fraught with those evils, both to the trade 
and to the Indians, that had attended similar rivalries 
in the Canadas. To prevent any contest of the kind, 
therefore, he made known his plan to the agents of the 
Northwest Company, and proposed to interest them, to 
the extent of one-third, in the trade thus to be opened. 
After some negotiation and delay, they declined the 
proposition, but subsequently despatched a party for 
the mouth of the Columbia to establish a post there 
before any expedition sent out by Mr. Astor might 
arrive. 

In the meantime Mr. Astor, finding his overtures re- 
jected, proceeded fearlessly to execute his enterprise in 
face of the whole power of the Northwest Company 



The American Fur Company 1 1 

He now proceeded to procure proper agents and coad- 
jutors, habituated to the Indian trade and to the Hfe of 
the wilderness. Among the clerks of the Northwest 
Company were several of great capacity and experi- 
ence, who had not been promoted, and were conse- 
quently ready for any employment in which their 
talents and acquirements might be turned to better 
account. 

On the 23rd of June, 1810, the articles of agreement 
of the Pacific Fur Company were entered into between 
Mr. Astor and four gentlemen, Alexander M'Kay, 
Duncan M'Dougal, Donald M'Kenzie.and Wilson Price 
Hunt of New Jersey. The first three of these were 
drawn from the Northwest Company, but Mr. Hunt 
was a successful business man in St. Louis, a person of 
great worth, who was selected by Mr. Astor to repre- 
sent him in the new establishment. 

Mr. Astor was to furnish all the capital for the com- 
pany, was to be its head, and was to have fifty shares 
of its stock, the other fifty being divided among the 
partners and their associates. He was to furnish ves- 
sels, goods, provisions, arms, ammunition, and all 
other requisites, and was to bear all losses of the first 
five 5'ears — a period within which the company might 
be dissolved, if it should be found unprofitable. 

In prosecuting this great scheme of commerce and 
colonisation, two expeditions were devised, one by sea, 
the other by land. The former was to carry out the 
people, stores, ammunition, and merchandise requisite 
for establishing a fortified trading post at the mouth of 
Columbia River. The latter, conducted by Mr. Hunt, 
was to proceed up the Missouri and across the Rocky 
Mountains, by the route of Lewis and Clark, to the 
same point; exploring a line of communication across 



12 The Fur Traders 

the continent, and noting the places where interior 
trading posts might be established. 

A fine ship was provided, called the Tonquin, of two 
hundred and ninety tons burden, mounting ten guns, 
with a crew of twenty men. She carried an assortment 
of merchandise for trading with the natives of the sea- 
board and of the interior, together with the frame of a 
schooner to be employed in the coasting trade. Seeds 
also were provided for the cultivation of the soil, and 
nothing was neglected for the necessary supply of the 
establishment. The command of ^he ship was in- 
trusted to Jonathan Thorn, of New York, a lieutenant 
in the United States Navy on leave of absence, a man 
of courage and firmness, who had distinguished himself 
in our Tripolitan war. 

Beside four partners, M'Kay, M'Dougal, David 
Stuart, and his nephew, Robert Stuart, there were 
twelve clerks to go out in the ship, several of them na- 
tives of Canada, who had some experience in the Ind- 
ian trade. Several artisans were likewise to sail in 
the ship, for the supply of the colony ; but the most 
peculiar and characteristic part of this motley embarka- 
tion consisted of thirteen voyageurs, who were to 
be employed in long internal expeditions of travel and 
trafl5c. 

The voyageurs were determined to regale and 
astonish the people of the " States" with the sight of 
a Canadian boat and a Canadian crew. They accord- 
ingly fitted up a large but light bark canoe, such as is 
used in the fur trade; transported it in a waggon from 
the banks of the St. Lawrence to the shores of Lake 
Champlain ; traversed the lake in it, from end to end ; 
hoisted it again in a waggon and wheeled it ofi" to 
Lausingburg, and there launched it upon the waters 



The American Fur Company 13 

of the Hudson. Down this river they plied their course 
merrily on a fine summer's day, making its banks re- 
sound for the first time with their old French boat 
songs; passing by the villages with whoop and halloo, 
so as to make the honest Dutch farmers mistake them 
for a crew of savages. In this way they swept, in full 
song and with regular flourish of the paddle, round New 
York, in a still summer evening, to the wonder and ad- 
miration of its inhabitants, who had never before wit- 
nessed on their waters a nautical apparition of the 
kind. 

While yet in port and on dry land, in the bustle of 
preparation and the excitement of novelty, all was sun- 
shine and promise. The Canadians, especially, were 
buoyant and boastful, and great braggarts as to the fut- 
ure ; while all those who had been in the service of the 
Northwest Company, and engaged in the Indian trade, 
plumed themselves upon their hardihood and their 
capacity to endure privations. They were " North- 
westers"; men seasoned to hardships, who cared for 
neither wind nor weather. They could live hard, lie 
hard, sleep hard, eat dogs! — in a word, they were ready 
to do and suffer anything for the good of the enterprise. 

Meanwhile it was a time of doubt and anxiety, when 
the relations between the United States and Great 
Britain were daily assuming a more precarious aspect 
and verging towards that war which shortly ensued. 
To guard against any interruption to the voyage by 
the armed brig, said to be off the harbour, Commodore 
Rodgers, commanding at New York, sent directions to 
Captain Hull, at that time cruising off the harbour in 
the frigate Co7istitution, to afford the Tonqtmi safe 
convoy off the coast. 

Before the day of embarkation, Mr. Astor addressed 



14 The Fur Traders 

a letter of instruction to the four partners who were to 
sail in the ship. In this he gave them especial caution 
as to their conduct on arriving at their destined port; 
exhorting them to be careful to make a favourable im- 
pression upon the wild people among whom their lot 
and the fortunes of the enterprise would be cast. "If 
you find them kind," said he, " as I hope you will, be 
so to them. If otherwise, act with caution and forbear- 
ance, and convince them that you come as friends." 

To Captain Thorn he wrote : " To prevent any mis- 
understanding will require your particular good man- 
agement. I must recommend you to be particularly 
careful on the coast, and not to rely too much on the 
friendly disposition of the natives. All accidents which 
have as yet happened there have arisen from too much 
confidence in the Indians." 



CHAPTER III 

OUTWARD BOUND 

ON the 8th of Septemper, 1810, the Tonquin put to 
sea, where she was soon joined by the frigate 
Constitutio7i. The wind was fresh and fair from the 
south-west, and the ship was soon out of sight of land 
and free from the apprehended danger of interruption. 
The frigate, therefore, gave her ' ' Godspeed, ' ' and left 
her to her course. 

The harmony so earnestly enjoined by Mr. Astor on 
this heterogeneous crew, and which had been so confid- 
ently promised in the buoyant moments of prepara- 
tion, was doomed to meet with a check at the very 
outset. Captain Thorn, an honest but somewhat dic- 
tatorial commander, was disposed to be absolute lord 
and master on board of his ship. The partners, on the 
other hand, had been brought up in the service of the 
Northwest Company, and in a profound idea of the im- 
portance, dignity, and authority of partners, whom 
they had been accustomed to look up to as the great 
ones of the earth ; and they were a little disposed, per- 
haps, to wear their suddenly acquired honours with 
some air of pretension. 

On the very first night Captain Thorn began his 
man-of-war discipline by ordering the lights in the 
cabin to be extinguished at eight o'clock. The pride 
of the partners was immediately in arms. They were 

15 



i6 The Fur Traders 

on board of their own ship, and entitled to consult 
their ease and enjoyment. A violent altercation en- 
sued, in the course of which Thorn threatened to put 
the partners in irons should they prove refractory; 
and it was some time before the irritated parties could 
be pacified by the more temperate bystanders. 

Such was the Captain's outset with the partners. 
Nor did the clerks stand much higher in his good 
graces; indeed, he seems to have regarded all the 
landsmen on board his ship as a kind of live lumber, 
continually in the way. The poor voyageurs, too, 
those fresh -water sailors, so vainglorious on shore, and 
almost amphibious when on lakes and rivers, lost all 
heart and stomach the moment they were at sea. For 
days they suffered the doleful rigours and retchings of 
seasickness, lurking below in their berths in squalid 
state, or emerging now and then like spectres from the 
hatchways, in capotes and blankets, with dirty night- 
caps, grizzly beard, lantern visage, and unhappy eye, 
shivering about the deck, and ever and anon crawling 
to the sides of the vessel, and offering up their tributes 
to the windward, to the infinite annoyance of the 
captain. 

Nor did his disgust and vexation cease when all 
hands had recovered from seasickness and become ac- 
customed to the ship, for now broke out an alarming 
keenness of appetite that threatened havoc to the pro- 
visions. The partners were loud in their complaints 
of the ship's fare, though their table was served with 
fresh pork, hams, tongues, smoked beef, and puddings. 
" When thwarted in their cravings for delicacies," said 

he, "they would exclaim it wasd d hard they could 

not live as they pleased upon their own property, be- 
ing on board of their own ship, freighted with their 



Outward Bound 17 

own merchandise. And these, ' ' added he, ' ' are the 
fine fellows who made such boast that they could ' eat 
dogs.' " 

On the 4th of December they came in sight of the 
Falkland Islands. Having been for some time on an 
allowance of water, they resolved to anchor here and 
obtain a supply. Mr. M'Dougal and Mr. M'Kay took 
this occasion to go on shore, but with a request from 
the Captain that they would not detain the ship. 
They pitched a tent on shore, had a boat at their com- 
mand, and passed their time merrily in rambling about 
the island, and coasting along the shores, shooting sea- 
lions, seals, foxes, geese, ducks, and penguins. 

On the morning of the nth, the repairs being all fin- 
ished, and the water casks replenished, the signal was 
given to embark, and the ship began to weigh anchor. 
At this time several of the passengers were dispersed 
about the island, amusing themselves in various ways. 
The two sporting partners, however, had strolled away 
to the south of the island in pursuit of penguins. It 
would never do to put off without them, as there was 
but one boat to convey the whole. 

While this delay took place on shore, the Captain 
was storming on board. His orders had been treated 
with contempt, and the ship was being wantonly de- 
tained; so he spread all sail and put to sea, swearing 
he would leave the laggards to shift for themselves. 
" Had the wind," wrote he to Mr. Astor, " (unfortun- 
ately) not hauled ahead soon after leaving the har- 
bour's mouth, I should positively have left them; and, 
indeed, I cannot but think it an unfortunate circum- 
stance for you that it so happened, for the first loss in 
this instance would, in my opinion, have proved the 
best, as they seem to have no idea of the value of 



1 8 The Fur Traders 

property, nor any apparent regard for your interest, 
although interwoven with their own." 

Besides these feuds between the Captain and the part- 
ners, there were feuds between the partners themselves, 
occasioned, in some measure, by jealousy of rank. 
They began to draw plans for the fort and other build- 
ings of the intended establishment. They agreed very 
well as to the outline and dimensions, which were on a 
sufficiently grand scale; but when they came to ar- 
range the details, fierce disputes arose, and they would 
quarrel by the hour about the distribution of the doors 
and windows. 

While all this petty anarchy was agitating the little 
world within the To7iquin, the good ship prosper- 
ously pursued her course, doubled Cape Horn on the 
25th of December, careered across the bosom of the 
Pacific, until, on the nth of February, the snowy 
peaks of Hawaii were seen brightening above the 
horizon. 

On the morning after her arrival, the ship was sur- 
rounded by canoes and pirogues, filled with the island- 
ers, bringing ofif supplies of fruits and vegetables, 
bananas, plantains, watermelons, yams, cabbages, and 
taro. The Captain was desirous, however, of purchas- 
ing a number of hogs; but there were none to be had. 
The trade in pork was a royal monopoly, and no sub- 
ject of the great Tamaahmaah dared to meddle with it. 
Such provisions as they could furnish, however, were 
brought by the natives in abundance, and a lively in- 
tercourse was kept up during the day. 

Captain Thorn, being disappointed in his hope of ob- 
taining a supply of pork, or finding good water, was 
anxious to be off. As soon, then, as he could get his 
inquisitive partners once more on board, he weighed 



Outward Bound 19 

anchor, and made sail for the island of Oahu, the royal 
residence of Tamaahmaah. 

While at anchor there, much ceremonious visiting 
and long conferences took place between the potentate 
of the islands and the partners of the company. 
Tamaahmaah came on board of the ship in royal style, 
in his double pirogue. The American flag was dis- 
played, four guns were fired, and the partners appeared 
in scarlet coats, and conducted their illustrious guests 
to the cabin, where they were regaled with wine. In 
this interview the partners endeavoured to impress the 
monarch with a sense of their importance, and of the 
importance of the association to which they belonged. 

On the day subsequent to the monarch's visit, the 
partners landed and waited upon him in return. 
Knowing the effect of show and dress upon men in 
savage life, and wishing to make a favourable impres- 
sion as the chiefs of the great American Fur Company, 
some of them appeared in Highland plaids and kilts, 
to the great admiration of the natives. 

While visits of ceremony and grand diplomatic con- 
ferences were going on between the partners and the 
King, the Captain was pushing what he considered a far 
more important negotiation, — the purchase of a supply 
of hogs. He found that the King was a magnanimous 
monarch, but a shrewd pork merchant. Several inter- 
views were requisite, and much bargaining, before he 
could be brought to part with a bristle of his bacon, 
and then he insisted upon being paid in hard Spanish 
dollars ; giving as a reason that he wanted money to 
purchase a frigate from his brother George, as he 
affectionately termed the King of England. 

At length the royal bargain was concluded; the 
necessary supply of hogs was obtained, besides several 



20 The Fur Traders 

goats, two sheep, a quantity of poultry, and vegetables 
in abundance. The partners decided also to recruit 
their forces from the natives of this island, for they had 
never seen watermen equal to them. Twelve were 
therefore enlisted for the company, and as many more 
for the service of the ship. 

And now, having embarked his live-stock, fruits, 
vegetables, and water, the Captain was ready to set 
sail. A favourable breeze sprang up, and in a little 
while the rich groves, green hills, and snowy peaks of 
those happy islands one after another sank from sight, 
or melted into the blue distance, and the Tonquin 
ploughed her course towards the sterner regions of the 
Pacific. Nothing occurred materially to disturb the 
residue of the voyage, excepting a violent storm ; and 
on the twenty -second of March the Tonquin arrived 
at the mouth of the Columbia River. 



CHAPTER IV 

ASTORIA 

THE mouth of the Columbia is upwards of four miles 
wide, with a peninsula and promontory on one 
side, and a long, low spit of land on the other; be- 
tween which a sand-bar and chain of breakers almost 
block up the entrance. At the time of the arrival of 
the Tonquin a fresh wind from the north-west sent a 
rough, tumbling sea upon the coast, which broke upon 
the bar in furious surges, and extended a sheet of foam 
almost across the mouth of the river, making necessary 
some guide to their course. 

Under these circumstances the first mate was sent 
with four assistants to sound the channel and direct the 
course of the ship. They quickly disappeared in the 
huge, rolling waves; evening set in; morning came; 
an anxious day and another anxious night passed, but 
no boat came. Again the Tonquin stood in to seek 
the channel, but was again deterred by the frightful 
aspect of the breakers from venturing within a league. 
Here she hove to ; and the second mate was despatched 
with four hands, in the pinnace, to sound across the 
channel until he should find four fathoms' depth. The 
pinnace entered among the breakers, but was near 
being lost, and with difficulty got back to the ship. 

The Captain now turned to Mr. Aiken, an able 
mariner, and ordered him, together with John Coles, 

21 



22 The Fur Traders 

sailmaker, Stephen Weekes, armourer, and two Sand- 
wich Islanders, to proceed ahead and take soundings, 
while the ship should follow under easy sail. In this 
way they proceeded until Aiken had ascertained the 
channel, when signal was given from the ship for him 
to return on board. He was then within pistol-shot, 
but so furious was the current and tumultuous the 
breakers that the boat became unmanageable, and was 
hurried away, the crew crying out piteously for assist- 
ance. Shortly after she broached broadside to the 
waves, and her case seemed desperate. The attention 
of those on board of the ship was now called to their 
own safety, for the vessel struck repeatedly, the waves 
broke over her, and there was danger of her founder- 
ing. The night coming on, they cast anchor; and at 
length the reflux of the tide, and the springing up of 
the wind, enabled them to quit their dangerous situa- 
tion and take shelter in a small bay within Cape Dis- 
appointment, where they rode in safety during the 
residue of a stormy night, and enjoyed a brief interval 
of refreshing sleep. 

With the light of day they looked out from the mast- 
head over a wild coast and wilder sea, but could dis- 
cover no trace of the two boats and their crews that 
were missing. Parties now scoured the neighbour- 
hood, the one headed by the Captain soon coming upon 
Weekes, the armourer. He and one of the Islanders 
were the only survivors of the crew of the jolly-boat, 
and no trace was ever discovered of the first mate and 
his party. Thus eight men were lost on the first ap- 
proach to the coast. 

Further search was made for the missing men, but 
with no better success, and they were at length given 
up as lost. In the meantime, the Captain and some of 



Astoria 23 

the partners explored the river for some distance in a 
large boat, to select a suitable place for the trading post. 
Their old jealousies and differences continued; they 
never could coincide in their choice. 

On the following day, therefore, without troubling 
himself to consult the partners, the Captain landed in 
Baker's Bay, on the north shore, and proceeded to erect 
a shed for the reception of the rigging, equipments, and 
stores of the schooner that was to be built for the use 
of the settlement. 

Not having the Captain to contend with, the part- 
ners soon pitched upon a spot on the south shore which 
appeared to them favourable for the intended establish- 
ment. It was on a point of land called Point George, 
having a very good harbour, where vessels not exceed- 
ing two hundred tons burden might anchor within 
fifty yards of the shore. 

After a day thus profitably spent, they recrossed the 
river, but landed several miles above the anchoring 
ground of the Tonquin, in the neighbourhood of Chi- 
nook, and visited the village of that tribe. Here they 
were received with great hospitality by the chief, Com- 
comly, a shrewd old savage, with but one eye, who 
certainly possessed great sway, not only over his own 
tribe but also over the neighbourhood. 

With this worthy tribe of Chinooks the two partners 
passed a part of the day very agreeably. They gave it 
to be understood that they were two chiefs of a great 
trading company, about to be established there; and 
the quick - sighted, though one - eyed chief, regaled 
them, therefore, with abundance of salmon and wap- 
patoo. The next morning they prepared to return to 
the vessel over eleven miles of open bay; the wind 
was fresh, the waves ran high. Comcomly remon- 



24 The Fur Traders 

strated with them on the hazard to which they would 
be exposed. They were resolute, however, and 
launched their boat, while the wary chieftain followed 
at some short distance in his canoe. Scarce had they 
rowed a mile, when a wave broke over their boat and 
upset it. They were in imminent peril of drowning 
when Comcomly came bounding over the waves in his 
light canoe, and snatched them from a watery grave. 

They were taken on shore and a fire made, after 
which Comcomly conducted them back to his village. 
Here everything was done that could be devised for 
their entertainment during the three days that they 
were detained by bad weather. When the storm had 
moderated and the sea become tranquil, the one-eyed 
chief of the Chinooks manned his state canoe, and 
conducted his guests in safety to the ship, where they 
were welcomed with joy, for apprehensions had been 
felt for their safety. 

From the report made by the two exploring partners, 
it was determined that Point George should be the site 
of the trading house. Accordingly, on the 12th of 
April, the launch was freighted with all the things 
necessary for the purpose, and sixteen persons departed 
in her to begin the establishment. The Tonquin 
shortly afterwards made her way through the intricate 
channel, and came to anchor in the little bay. She 
was saluted with three volleys of musketry and with 
three cheers ; and the encampment was named 
Astoria, in honor of the projector and supporter of 
the enterprise. 

The part of the cargo destined for the use of Astoria 
was landed, and the ship left free to proceed on her 
voyage; for the Tonquin was to coast to the north, 
to trade for peltries at the different harbours, and to 



Astoria 25 

touch at Astoria on her return in the autumn. Mr. 
M'Kay went in her as supercargo, taking with him 
Mr. Lewis as ship's clerk. On the ist of June the 
ship got under way, and dropped down to Baker's Bay, 
where she was detained for a few days by a head wind ; 
but early in the morning of the fifth stood out to sea 
with a fine breeze and swelling canvas, and swept off 
gaily on her fatal voyage. 

While the Astorians were busily occupied in com- 
pleting their fort, a report was brought to them by an 
Indian that a party of thirty white men had appeared 
on the banks of the Columbia and were actually build- 
ing houses at the second rapids. The Northwest Com- 
pany had already established posts to the west of the 
Rocky Mountains, and it was now evident that they 
meant to seize upon the upper part of the river and 
forestall the American Fur Company in the surround- 
ing trade. As a counter-check to this post, Mr. David 
Stuart set out with eight men and a small assortment 
of goods to establish himself on the Spokane River, in 
a neighbourhood abounding with beaver. 



CHAPTER V 

THE I.OSS OF THE "TONQUIN" 

WE have already stated that the Tonquin set sail 
from the mouth of the river on the 5th of June. 
The whole number of persons on board amounted to 
twenty-three. In one of the outer bays they picked 
up, from a fishing canoe, an Indian named Lamazee, 
who knew something of the language of the various 
tribes along the coast, and who agreed to accompany 
them as interpreter. 

Steering to the north. Captain Thorn arrived in a few 
days at Vancouver Island, and anchored in the har- 
bour of Neweetee, very much against the advice of his 
Indian interpreter, who warned him against the natives 
of this part of the coast. Mr. M'Kay, accompanied by 
a few of the men, went on shore to a large village to 
visit the chief of the surrounding territory, six of the 
natives remaining on board as hostages. He was re- 
ceived with great professions of friendship, entertained 
hospitably, and a couch of sea-otter skins was prepared 
for him in the dwelling of the chieftain, where he was 
prevailed upon to pass the night. 

In the morning, before Mr. M'Kay had returned to 
the ship, great numbers of the natives came off in their 
canoes to trade, headed by two sons of Wicananish. 
As there was every appearance of a brisk trade, Captain 
Thorn did not wait for the return of Mr, M'Kay, but 

26 



The Loss of the Tonquin 27 

spread his wares upon deck, making a tempting display 
of blankets, cloths, knives, beads, and fish-hooks, ex- 
pecting a prompt and profitable sale. The Indians, 
however, were not so eager and simple as he had sup- 
posed, having learned the art of bargaining and the 
value of merchandise from the casual traders along the 
coast. When Captain Thorn made what he considered 
a liberal offer for an otter-skin, one wily old Indian 
treated it with scorn, and asked more than double. 
His comrades all took their cue from him, and not an 
otter-skin was to be had at a reasonable rate. 

The old fellow, however, overshot his mark, and 
mistook the character of the man he was treating with. 
Thorn was a plain, straightforward sailor, who never 
had two minds nor two prices in his dealings. The 
cunning old Indian followed him to and fro, as he 
paced up and down the deck in sullen silence, holding 
out a sea-otter skin to him at every turn, and pestering 
him to trade. Finding other means unavailing, he 
suddenly changed his tone, and began to jeer and ban- 
ter him upon the mean prices he offered. This was too 
much for the patience of the Captain, who, turning 
suddenly upon his persecutor, snatched the profEered 
otter-skin from his hands, rubbed it in his face, and 
dismissed him over the side of the ship with no very 
complimentary application to accelerate his exit. He 
then kicked the peltries to the right and left about the 
deck, and soon cleared the ship of all natives. 

When Mr. M'Kay returned on board, the interpreter 
related what had passed, and begged him to prevail 
upon the Captain to make sail, as, from his knowledge 
of the temper and pride of the people of the place, he 
was sure they would resent the indignity offered to one 
of their chiefs. The Captain made light of his counsels, 



28 The Fur Traders 

and pointed to his cannon and firearms as sufiBcient 
safeguard against naked savages. The day passed 
away without any signs of hostility, and at night the 
Captain retired as usual to his cabin, taking no more 
than the usual precautions. 

On the following morning, at daybreak, while the 
Captain and Mr. M'Kay were yet asleep, a canoe came 
alongside in which were twenty Indians. They were 
unarmed, their aspect and demeanour friendly, and they 
held up otter-skins, and made signs indicative of a wish 
to trade. The ofi&cer of the watch, perceiving those in 
the canoe to be without weapons, and having received 
no orders to the contrary, readily permitted them to 
mount the deck. Another canoe soon followed, the 
crew of which was likewise admitted; and another, 
until Indians were soon clambering into the vessel on 
all sides. 

By the time Captain Thorn and Mr. M'Kay came on 
deck, it was thronged with Indians, and they noticed 
that many of the natives wore short mantles of skins, 
and doubtless were secretly armed. Mr. M'Kay urged 
the Captain to clear the ship and get under way. He 
again made light of the advice; but the swarm of 
canoes about the ship, and the numbers still putting 
off from shore, at length awakened his distrust, and he 
ordered some of the crew to weigh anchor, while some 
were sent aloft to make sail. 

The Indians now offered to trade with the Captain on 
his own terms, bujang knives chiefly, each one giving 
place to another as soon as he was supplied ; until, by 
degrees, they were scattered about the whole deck, all 
with weapons. 

The anchor was now nearly up, the sails were loose, 
and the Captain, in a loud and peremptory tone, ordered 



I 



The Loss of the Tonquin 29 

the ship to be cleared. In an instant, a signal yell was 
given ; knives and war-clubs were brandished in every 
direction, and the savages rushed upon their marked 
victims. 

Mr. Lewis, the ship's clerk, was leaning, with folded 
arms, over a bale of blankets, engaged in bargaining, 
when he received a deadly stab in the back, and fell 
down the companion way. Mr. M'Kay, who was 
seated on the taffrail, sprang on his feet, but was in- 
stantly knocked down with a war-club and flung back- 
wards into the sea, where he was despatched by the 
women in the canoes. 

In the meantime Captain Thorn made desperate fight 
against fearful odds. Shewish, the young chief in com- 
mand, singled him out as his peculiar prey, and rushed 
upon him at the first outbreak. The Captain had 
barely time to draw a clasp-knife, with one blow of 
which he laid the young savage dead at his feet. Sev- 
eral of the stoutest followers of Shewish now set upon 
him. He defended himself vigorously, dealing crippling 
blows to right and left, and strewing the quarter-deck 
with the slain and wounded. His object was to fight 
his way to the cabin, where there were firearms; but 
he was hemmed in with foes, covered with wounds, 
and faint with loss of blood. For an instant he leaned 
upon the tiller wheel, when a blow from behind felled 
him to the deck, where he was despatched with knives 
and thrown overboard. 

While this was transacting upon the quarter-deck, a 
chance-medley fight was going on throughout the ship. 
The crew fought desperately with whatever weapon 
they could seize, but they were soon overpowered by 
numbers, and mercilessly butchered. 

As to the seven who had been sent aloft to make sail, 



30 The Fur Traders 

being destitute of weapons, they let themselves down 
by the running rigging, in hopes of getting between 
decks. One fell in the attempt; another received a 
death-blow in the back ; a third, Stephen Weekes, the 
armourer, was mortally wounded as he was getting 
down the hatchway. 

The remaining four made good their retreat into the 
cabin, where they found Mr. Lewis, still alive, though 
mortally wounded. Barricading the cabin door, they 
broke holes through the companionway, and, with the 
muskets and ammunition which were at hand, opened 
a brisk fire that soon cleared the deck; then, sallying 
forth, they discharged some of the deck guns, which 
did great execution among the canoes, and drove 
all the savages to shore. 

The remainder of that day and night passed away 
without any further attempt on the part of the natives. 
"When the day dawned, the Tonquin still lay at anchor 
in the bay, her sails all loose and flapping in the wind, 
and no one apparently on board of her. After a time, 
some of the canoes ventured forth to reconnoitre, pad- 
dling about her cautiously at a distance. At length 
one man made his appearance on the deck, and was 
recognised by the interpreter, who had taken refuge 
with the Indians, as Mr. Lewis. He made friendly 
signs, and invited them on board. It was long before 
they ventured to comply. Those who mounted the 
deck met with no opposition ; no one was to be seen on 
board; for Mr. Lewis, after inviting them, had disap- 
peared. Other canoes now pressed forward to board 
the prize; the decks were soon crowded, and the sides 
covered with clambering savages, all intent on plunder. 
In the midst of their eagerness and exultation, the ship 
blew up with a tremendous explosion. Arms, legs, and 



The Loss of the Tonqum 31 

mutilated bodies were blown into the air, and dreadful 
havoc was made in the surrounding canoes. The in- 
terpreter was in the main-chains at the time of the 
explosion, and was thrown unhurt into the water, 
where he succeeded in getting into one of the canoes. 
The ship had disappeared, but the bay was covered 
with fragments of the wreck, with shattered canoes, 
and Indians swimming for their lives, or struggling in 
the agonies of death ; while those who had escaped the 
danger remained aghast and stupefied, or made with 
frantic panic for the shore. 

The inhabitants of Neweetee were overhelmed with 
consternation at this astounding calamity, which had 
burst upon them in the very moment of triumph. The 
warriors sat mute and mournful, while the women filled 
the air with loud lamentations. Their weeping and 
wailing, however, was suddenly changed into yells of 
fury at the sight of four unfortunate white men, 
brought captive into the village. They had been 
driven on shore in one of the ship's boats, and had 
been taken at some distance along the coast. 

They told the interpreter that after they had beaten 
off the enemy and cleared the ship, Lewis advised that 
they should slip the cable and endeavour to get to sea. 
They declined to take his advice, alleging that the 
wind set too strongly into the bay and would drive 
them on shore. They resolved, as soon as it was 
dark, to put off quietly in the ship's boat, which they 
would be able to do unperceived, and to coast along 
back to Astoria. They put their resolution into effect; 
but lyewis refused to accompany them, being disabled 
by his wound, hopeless of escape, and determined on a 
terrible revenge. He declared his intention to re- 
main on board of the ship until daylight, to decoy as 



32 The Fur Traders 

many of the savages on board as possible, then to set 
fire to the magazine, in which was stored more than 
four tons of powder, and terminate his life by a signal 
act of vengeance. How well he succeeded has been 
shown. His companions bade him a melancholy adieu, 
and set off on their precarious expedition. They strov^e 
with might and main to get out of the bay, but found 
it impossible to weather a point of land, and were at 
length compelled to take shelter in a small cove, where 
they hoped to remain concealed until the wind should 
be more favourable. Exhausted by fatigue and watch- 
ing, they fell into a sound sleep, and in that state were 
surprised by the savages. Better had it been for those 
unfortunate men had they remained with Lewis, and 
shared his heroic death: as it was, they perished in a 
more painful and protracted manner, being sacrificed 
by the natives to the spirits of their friends with all the 
lingering tortures of savage cruelty. Some time after 
their death, the interpreter, who had remained a kind 
of prisoner at large, effected his escape, and brought 
these tragic tidings to Astoria. 

Dismay filled the hearts of the Astorians — a mere 
handful of men on a savage coast, amid tribes already 
believed to be in a conspiracy against them. In this 
juncture Mr. M'Dougal assembled several chieftains 
and said, "The white men among you are few in num- 
ber, but they are mighty in medicine. See here! In 
this bottle I hold the smallpox safely corked up; I 
have but to draw the cork and let loose the pestilence, 
to sweep man, woman, and child from the face of the 
earth." 

The chiefs, struck with horror and alarm, implored 
him not to uncork the bottle, since they and all their 
people were firm friends of the white men, and would 



I 



The Loss of the Tonquin 33 

always remain so; but, should the smallpox be once 
let out, it would sweep off the good as well as the bad; 
and surely he would not be so unj ust as to punish his 
friends for crimes committed by his enemies ! 

Mr. M'Dougal pretended to be convinced by their 
reasoning, and assured them that, so long as the white 
people should be unmolested, and the conduct of their 
Indian neighbours friendly and hospitable, the phial of 
wrath should remain sealed up; but, on the least hos- 
tility, the fateful cork should be drawn. 

After this danger was averted, the year wore on its 
uneventful course. In October the southerly winds 
brought with them frequent rain. The Indians began 
to retire to their winter quarters farther inland, and, 
by their departure, compelled the colonists to forage 
more widely. Still the little band of adventurers kept 
up their spirits, and looked forward to the time when 
they should be reinforced by the party under Mr. Hunt, 
which was to come to them across the Rocky Mount- 
ains. The rain, which had poured down almost in- 
cessantly since the ist of October, cleared up toward 
the evening of the 31st of December, and the morn- 
ing of the ist of January, 1812, ushered in a day of 
sunshine. 

On the present occasion, the partners endeavoured to 
celebrate the new year with some effect. At sunrise 
the drums beat to arms and the colours were hoisted 
with three rounds of small arms and three discharges of 
cannon. The day was devoted to games of agility and 
strength, and other amusements; and grog was tem- 
perately distributed, together with bread, butter, and 
cheese. The best dinner their circumstances could 
afford was served up at midday. At sunset the colours 
were lowered, with another discharge of artillery. The 



34 The Fur Traders 

night was spent in dancing; and, though there was a 
lack of female partners to excite their gallantry, the 
voyageurs kept up the ball with true French spirit, 
until three o'clock in the morning. So passed the new 
year festival of 1812 at the infant colony of Astoria. 



CHAPTER VI 

UP THE MISSOURI 

THK conduct of the overland expedition had been 
assigned to Mr. W. P. Hunt, who was ultimately 
to be at the head of the establishment at the mouth of 
the Columbia. Another of the partners, Mr. Donald 
M'Kenzie, was associated with Mr. Hunt in the ex- 
pedition, and excelled in those points in which the 
other was deficient, for he had been ten years in the 
interior, in the service of the Northwest Company. 

Mr. Hunt and his companion gathered the nucleus 
of their party from the voyageurs that frequented 
Montreal; and, by the end of July, they set out for 
Mackinac, and thence made their way to St. lyouis, 
landing there on the 3d of September, 18 10. Mr. 
Hunt's arrival there, and the appearance of a new fur 
company, with ample funds at its command, produced a 
strong sensation among the Indian traders of the place, 
and awakened the keen jealousy of the Missouri Com- 
pany. In consequence it took him some weeks to 
complete his preparations — a delay which, added to 
those at Montreal and Mackinac, threw him much be- 
hind his calculations, and made it impossible for him 
to complete his voyage up the Missouri in that year. 

To avoid the expense of wintering in St. Louis with 
his large party, Mr. Hunt took his departure from St. 
LfOuis on the 21st of October, his party being distributed 

35 



36 The Fur Traders 

in three boats — two of them barges and the third a 
keel boat. By much persevering labour the party 
made its way about 450 miles up the Missouri, and on 
the 1 6th of November went into winter quarters at the 
mouth of the Nadowa River (St. Joseph, Mo.). The 
halt was made none too soon, for the river closed with 
ice two days afterwards. The party was now in a 
country abounding with deer and wild turkey, so that 
there was no stint of provisions during the months of 
delay and confinement. 

Mr. Hunt availed himself of this interval to return 
to St, lyouis, for he wished to procure an interpreter 
acquainted with the language of the Sioux, as he ap- 
prehended diflSculties in passing through the country 
of that nation. He felt the necessity, also, of having 
a greater number of hunters, not merely to keep up a 
supply of provisions throughout their long and arduous 
expedition, but also as a protection and defence in case 
of Indian hostilities. 

At the time of Mr. Hunt's arrival at St. Louis (Janu- 
ary 20, 181 1) Mr. Manuel Lisa (a partner of the Mis- 
souri Company) was fitting out an expedition to go in 
quest of Mr. Andrew Henry, a partner of that com- 
pany, who had been dislodged by the Blackfeet from 
the upper waters of the Missouri, and had disappeared. 
There being thus two expeditions on foot at the same 
moment, an unusual demand was occasioned for hunt- 
ers and voyageurs, who accordingly stipulated for high 
terms. 

The greatest diflSculty, however, was to get the Sioux 
interpreter, for there was but one man in St. Louis 
fitted for the purpose. He was Pierre Dorion, the son 
of Dorion, the French interpreter, who accompanied 
Lewis and Clark in their famous exploring expedition 



Up the Missouri 37 

across the Rocky Mountains. Pierre had been em- 
ployed by the Missouri Fur Company during the 
preceding year, and had proved himself faithful and 
serviceable. His love of liquor, however, had run 
him deeply in debt to the company in places where 
whiskey was ten dollars a quart. This item still re- 
mained unsettled and was a matter of furious dispute. 

The moment it was discovered by Mr. I,isa that 
Pierre Dorion was in treaty with the new and rival 
association, he endeavoured, by threats as well as 
promises, to prevent his engaging in their service. 
His promises might, perhaps, have prevailed; but his 
threats, which related to the whiskey debt, only served 
to drive Pierre into the opposite ranks. So Pierre 
took service with Mr. Hunt, and left St. Louis with 
his fellow-recruits on March 12, 181 1, for the quarters 
at Nadowa, taking with him his squaw and two 
children. 

Among the various persons who were to proceed up 
the Missouri with Mr. Hunt were two scientific gentle- 
men : one, Mr. John Bradbury, who had been sent out 
by the Linnaean Society of Liverpool to make a col- 
lection of American plants; the other, a Mr. Nuttall, 
likewise an Englishman, who has since made himself 
known as the author of Travels in Arkansas, and a 
work on the Genera of American Plants. Mr. Hunt 
had offered them the protection and facilities of his 
party, in their scientific researches up the Missouri. 
They put their trunks on board of the boat, but re- 
mained at St. Louis until the next day, for the arrival 
of the post, intending to join the expedition at St. 
Charles, a short distance above the mouth of the 
Missouri. 

The same evening, however, they learned that a writ 



38 The Fur Traders 

had been issued against Pierre Dorion for his whiskey 
debt by Mr. Lisa, as agent of the Missouri Company, 
and that it was the intention to entrap the mongrel 
linguist on his arrival at St. Charles. Upon hearing 
this, Mr. Bradbury and Mr. Nuttall set off a little after 
midnight, by land, got ahead of the boat as it was 
iscending the Missouri, and, before its arrival at St. 
Charles, gave Pierre Dorion warning of the legal trap 
prepared to ensnare him. The knowing Pierre imme- 
diately landed and took to the woods, followed by his 
squaw, laden with their papooses, and a large bundle 
containing their most precious effects, promising to re- 
join the party some distance above St. Charles. There 
seemed little dependence to be placed upon the pro- 
mises of a loose adventurer who had already received 
two-thirds of his year's pay ; but it was hoped his pique 
against his old employers would render him faithful to 
his new ones. 

The party reached St. Charles in the afternoon, but 
the harpies of the law looked in vain for their expected 
prey. The boats resumed their course on the following 
morning and had not proceeded far when Pierre Dorion 
made his appearance on the shore. He was gladly 
taken on board, but he came without his squaw. They 
had quarrelled in the night. Pierre Dorion passed a 
solitary day and anxious night, bitterly regretting his 
indiscretion in having exercised his conjugal author- 
ity so near home. Before daybreak, however, a well- 
known voice reached his ears from the opposite shore. 
It was his repentant spouse, who had been wandering 
the woods all night in quest of the party, and had at 
length descried it by its fires. A boat was despatched 
for her and the interesting family was once more united. 

On the afternoon of the third day the boats touched 



Up the Missouri 39 

at Charette, where they met Daniel Boone, the re- 
nowned patriarch of Kentucky, who had kept in the 
advance of civilisation and on the borders of the 
wilderness, still leading a hunter's life, though now in 
his seventy-seventh year. He had but recently re- 
turned from a hunting and trapping expedition, and 
had brought nearly sixty beaver skins as trophies of 
his skill. The old man was still erect in form, strong 
in limb, and unflinching in spirit, and flourished 
several years after this meeting in a vigorous old age. 

The next morning, early, as the party were yet en- 
camped at the mouth of a small stream, they were 
visited by another of these heroes of the wilderness, 
one John Colter, who had accompanied Lewis and 
Clark in their memorable expedition. He had recently 
come from the head waters of the Missouri in a small 
canoe, a distance of three thousand miles. Yet, with 
all the perils and terrors of his adventure: fresh in his 
recollection, he had a strong impulse to join the present 
band, and was restrained by nothing but the circum- 
stance of his recent marriage. All the morning he 
kept with them; but, after a march of several miles, 
he took a reluctant leave of the travellers and turned 
his face homeward. 

Nothing else of interest transpired on the journey up 
the river, and at length Mr. Hunt, with his reinforce- 
ments, reached the station near the Nadowa River, 
where the main body of the expedition had been quar- 
tered during the winter. 

The party now consisted of nearly sixty persons: of 
whom five were partners, one, John Reed, was a clerk; 
forty were Canadian voyageiirs, and there were sev- 
eral hunters. They embarked in four boats, one of 
which was of a large size, mounting a swivel and two 



40 The Fur Traders 

howitzers. All were furnished with masts and sails, 
to be used when the wind was sufficiently favourable 
and strong to overpower the current of the river. 

When the severe rains subsided that had already 
delayed him so long, Mr. Hunt broke winter quarters 
and, on April 21st, resumed the voyage up the Mis- 
souri. On the loth of May the party passed the village 
of the Omahas, of whose former chief. Blackbird, such 
savage and romantic stories were told. The staff still 
remained over his grave from which fluttered the ban- 
ner of that chieftain and the scalps he had taken in 
battle; and the custom of placing food from time to 
time on the mound, for the use of the dead, was still 
observed by the Omahas. 

As Mr. Hunt and his party were now approaching 
the country of the formidable Sioux, they confined 
themselves, in hunting, to the islands, which some- 
times extend to considerable length. After a sumptu- 
ous hunter's repast on one of them, they were pulling 
along the river-bank when they descried a canoe 
containing two white men. They proved to be two 
trappers, Benjamin Jones and Alexander Carson, who 
had been hunting and trapping for two years past near 
the head of the Missouri. 

The acquisition of two such hardy and experienced 
men was peculiarly desirable at the moment. They 
needed little persuasion, and readily turned their faces 
again towards the mountains and the Pacific. Four 
days later (May 26th) they picked up three other 
hunters, Edward Robinson, John Hoback, and Jacob 
Rezner, who had been in the service of the Missouri 
Company under Mr. Henry, and were returning to 
their homes in Kentucky. But the sight of a power- 
ful party of traders, trappers, hunters, and voyageurs 



up the Missouri 41 

proved irresistible. Their families and all the charms 
of green Kentucky, vanished and they enlisted in the 
enterprise on similar terms with some of the other 
hunters: the company to fit them out and keep them 
supplied with the requisite equipment and munitions, 
and they to yield one- half of the produce of their hunt- 
ing and trapping. 

As the boats made their way up the stream bordered 
by a land of danger, the voyageurs regarded with a 
distrustful eye the boundless waste extending on each 
side. The very name of Sioux became a watchword 
of terror. Not an animal could appear on the hills but 
the boats resounded from stem to stern with, * ' Voila les 
Sioux ! voila les Sioux ! ' ' 

On the morning of the 31st of May, as the travellers 
were breakfasting, the usual alarm was given, but with 
more reason, for two Sioux Indians actually did appear 
on the opposite bank, and harangued them in a loud 
voice. Then one of them went scouring across the 
heights while Mr. Hunt held some conference with 
the other, ascertaining from him that they were scouts 
of a large war party which had been waiting eleven 
days to oppose Mr. Hunt's progress up the river. 

The party braced its spirits for the encounter and 
pulled resolutely up the stream. An island intervened 
for some time between them and the opposite bank; 
but, on clearing the upper end of it, they came in full 
view of the other shore. Thither the savages were 
rushing in great numbers, all armed, painted, and 
decorated for battle. To attempt to elude them was 
out of the question, so the fighting alternative was in- 
stantly adopted : the arms were examined, the howitzers 
loaded with bullets, and the whole party pulled across 
the river. ' ' Parbleu ! this is a sad scrape we are in, 



42 The Fur Traders 

brother ! ' ' one voyageur would mutter ruefully to the 
next oarsman. " Aye, aye! we are not going to a 
wedding, my friend ! ' ' 

When the boats arrived within rifle-shot, the hunters 
seized their weapons, and prepared for action. As they 
rose to fire, a confusion took place among the savages. 
They displayed their buffalo robes, raised them with 
both hands, and then spread them before them on the 
ground as an invitation to a parley. Immediately 
about a dozen of the principal warriors, separating 
from the rest, descended to the edge of the river, 
lighted a fire, seated themselves in a semicircle round 
it, and, displaying the calumet, invited the party to 
land. Mr. Hunt and his companions drew near with- 
out hesitation, and took their seats on the sand so as 
to complete the circle; while the band of warriors who 
lined the banks above stood looking down in silent 
groups. 

The pipe of peace was now brought forward; the 
pipe-bearer stepped within the circle, held the pipe to- 
wards the sun, then towards the different points of the 
compass, after which he handed it to the principal 
chief. The latter smoked a few whiSs, then, holding 
the bowl of the pipe in his hand, offered the stem to 
Mr. Hunt, and to each one successively in the circle. 
Now that all was good faith and amity, Mr. Hunt in- 
formed the Sioux that the real object of the expedition 
was not to trade with any of the tribes up the river, 
but to cross the mountains to the great salt lake in the 
west, in search of some of their brothers, whom they 
had not seen for eleven months. He had heard of the 
intention of the Sioux to oppose his passage, and was 
prepared, as they might see, to effect it at all hazards; 
nevertheless, his feelings towards the Sioux were 



up the Missouri 43 

friendly, in proof of which he had brought them a 
present of tobacco and corn. 

The sight of these presents and the resolute conduct 
of the white men mollified the chieftain. In his reply, 
he stated that the object of their hostile assemblage had 
been merely to prevent supplies of arms and ammuni- 
tion from going to the Aricaras, Mandans, and Minne- 
tarees, with whom they were at war. Being now 
convinced that the party were carrying no supplies of 
the kind, but merely proceeding in quest of their 
brothers beyond the mountains, they would not impede 
them in their voyage. All then arose, shook hands, 
and parted. Mr. Hunt and his companions re-em- 
barked, and the boats proceeded on their course un- 
molested. 

On the second morning, at an early hour, they de- 
scried two Indians standing on a high bank of the 
river, waving and spreading their buffalo robes in signs 
of amity. The savages, however, showed evident 
symptoms of alarm when approached, spreading out 
their arms according to their mode of supplicating 
clemency ; nor were they quite at ease until the pipe of 
peace had been smoked. Mr. Hunt, having been in- 
formed that the tribe to which these men belonged had 
killed three white men during the preceding summer, 
reproached them with the crime, and demanded their 
reasons for such savage hostility. " We kill white 
men," replied one of the chiefs, " because white men 
kill us. That very man," added he, pointing to Car- 
son, one of the new recruits, " killed one of our 
brothers last summer. The three white men were 
slain to avenge his death." 

Carson admitted that, being with a party of Aricaras 
on the banks of the Missouri, and seeing a war party 



44 The Fur Traders 

of Sioux on the opposite side, he had fired a random 
shot, without much expectation of efiect, for the river 
was fully half a mile in breadth. Unluckily it brought 
down a Sioux warrior, for whose wanton destruction 
threefold vengeance had been taken. 

The two chiefs, having smoked their pipe of peace 
and received a few presents, departed well satisfied. 
In a little while two others appeared on horseback, and 
rode up abreast of the boats. They had seen the pre- 
sents given to their comrades, and came after the boats 
to ask for more. Being somewhat peremptory and in- 
solent in their demands, Mr. Hunt gave them a flat 
refusal, and threatened, if they or any of their tribe 
followed him with similar demands, to treat them as 
enemies. They turned and rode off in a furious pas- 
sion. As he was ignorant what force these chiefs 
might have behind the hills, and as it was very possible 
they might take advantage of some pass of the river to 
attack the boats, Mr. Hunt called all stragglers on 
board, and arranged that he should ascend one side of 
the river, and the three smaller boats the other. By 
this arrangement each party would command a view 
of the opposite heights above the heads and out of 
sight of their companions, and could give the alarm 
should they perceive any Indians lurking there. 

About four o'clock in the afternoon Mr. Hunt came 
to where the river was divided by a long sand-bar. He 
kept up the channel on his side of the bar for some 
distance, until the water proved too shallow for his 
boat. It was necessary, therefore, to return down the 
channel, and pull round the lower end of the sand-bar 
into the main stream. Just as he had given orders to 
this effect, two signal guns were fired from the boats 
on the opposite side of the river. At the same mo- 



up the Missouri 45 

ment, a file of savage warriors was poured down from 
the overhanging bank, and gathered on the shore at 
the lower end of the bar. Here then was a fearful pre- 
dicament. Mr. Hunt and his crew seemed caught in 
a trap. The Indians, to the number of about a hund- 
red, had already taken possession of a point near 
which the boat would have to pass, and others kept 
pouring down the bank. 

The hazardous situation of Mr. Hunt was perceived 
by those in the other boats, and they hastened to his 
assistance. Their anxiety increased, as they saw his 
party descending the channel and dauntlessly ap- 
proaching the point of danger; but it suddenly changed 
into surprise on beholding the boat pass close by the 
savage horde unmolested, and steer out safely into the 
broad river. 

The next moment the whole band of warriors was in 
motion. They ran along the bank until they were op- 
posite the boats, then, throwing by their weapons and 
buffalo robes, plunged into the river, waded and swam 
off to the boats, and surrounded them in crowds, seek- 
ing to shake hands with every person on board; for 
the Indians had long since found this to be the white 
man's token of amity, and they carried it to an extreme. 

All uneasiness was now at an end. The Indians 
proved to be a war party of Aricaras, Mandans, and 
Minnetarees, consisting of three hundred warriors, and 
bound on a foray against the Sioux. Their war plans 
were abandoned for the present, and they determined 
to return to the Aricara town, where they hoped to 
obtain from the white men arms and ammunition that 
would enable them to take the field with advantage 
over their enemies. 

On the following morning Mr. Hunt had not pro- 



46 The Fur Traders 

ceeded far before the chief came galloping along the 
shore and made signs for a parley. He said his people 
could not go home satisfied unless they had something 
to take with them to prove that they had met with the 
white men. Mr. Hunt understood the drift of the 
speech, and made the chief a present of a cask of 
powder, a bag of balls, and three dozen knives, with 
which he was highly pleased. While the chief was 
receiving these presents an Indian came running along 
the shore, and announced that a boat, filled with white 
men, was coming up the river. Mr. Hunt correctly 
concluded it to be the boat of Mr. Manuel L,isa, who 
had been endeavouring to overtake him; and he was 
vexed to find that alert and adventurous trader upon 
his heels, whom he hoped to have out-manoeuvered and 
left far behind. 

Mr. Hunt perceived that it was useless to attempt 
any longer to evade his rival; after proceeding a few 
miles farther, therefore, he came to a halt and waited 
for the barge of Ivisa to make its appearance. It came 
sweeping gently up the river, manned by its twenty 
stout oarsmen, and armed with a swivel mounted at 
the bow. 

The meeting between the two leaders could not be 
very cordial. In truth, a general distrust prevailed 
throughout the party concerning I^isa and his inten- 
tions. There being now nothing more to be appre- 
hended from the Sioux, they suspected that lyisa would 
take advantage of his twenty-oared barge to leave them 
and get first among the Aricaras. As he had traded 
with those people and possessed great influence over 
them, it was feared he might make use of it to impede 
the business of Mr. Hunt and his party. 

Dorion, since the arrival of I^isa, had kept aloof and 



up the Missouri 47 

regarded him with a sullen and dogged aspect. On 
the third day after their meeting, the two parties were 
brought to a halt by a heavy rain, and remained en- 
camped about a hundred yards apart. In the course 
of the day Lisa undertook to tamper with the faith of 
Pierre Dorion, and, inviting him on board of his boat, 
regaled him with his favourite whiskey. When he 
thought him sufficiently mellowed, he proposed to him 
to quit the service of his new employers and return to 
his old allegiance. Finding him not to be moved by 
soft words, he called to mind his old debt to the com- 
pany, and threatened to carry him oflf by force, in pay- 
ment of it. The mention of this debt always stirred up 
the gall of Pierre Dorion, and he left the boat in high 
dudgeon. 

Dorion' s first step was to visit the tent of Mr. Hunt 
and reveal the attempt that had been made to shake 
his faith. While he was yet talking, Lisa entered the 
tent, under the pretext of coming to borrow a towing 
line. High words instantly ensued between him and 
Dorion, which ended by the half-breed's dealing him 
a blow. Lisa immediately rushed to his boat for a 
weapon, while Dorion snatched up a pair of pistols 
belonging to Mr. Hunt, and placed himself in battle 
array. A scene of uproar and hubbub ensued that de- 
fies description. Mr. Hunt acted as moderator, en- 
deavouring to prevent a general melee; but in the 
midst of the brawl an expression was made use of by 
Lisa derogatory to his honour. In an instant his tran- 
quil spirit was in a flame, and he became as eager for 
the fight as any one on the ground. By the earnest 
efforts of men on both sides the quarrel was brought to 
a close without bloodshed ; but the two leaders sepa- 
rated in anger, and all personal intercourse ceased. 



48 The Fur Traders 

On the nth of June, Mr, Hunt and his companions 
encamped about six miles below the Aricara village, 
and Mr. Lisa did the same, as usual at no great dis- 
tance from them; but he maintained the same sullen 
reserve that had come to mark their relations. All 
hands embarked early next morning and set forward 
for the Indian village, which they reached about ten 
o'clock, but landed on the opposite side of the river, 
where they spread out their baggage to dry, the recent 
rains having been very heavy. 

Neither of the leaders had spoken to the other since 
their quarrel, and now came the delicate point — how 
they should make their visit to the village. At length 
it was arranged that the two parties should cross the 
river at the same time. Accordingly, about two 
o'clock, the large boat of Mr. Hunt was manned, and 
he stepped on board. I^isa at the same time embarked 
in his barge, the two deputations amounting to four- 
teen persons. They landed amidst a rabble crowd, and 
were received on the bank by the head chief, who con- 
ducted them into the village with grave courtesy ; driv- 
ing to the right and left the swarms of old squaws, 
imp-like boys, and vagabond dogs with which the 
place abounded. They wound their way between the 
cabins, which looked like dirt-heaps huddled together 
without any plan, and surrounded by old palisades; all 
filthy in the extreme, and redolent of villainous smells. 
Arrived at the council lodge, they faced a grave gather- 
ing of twenty warriors. 

After the solemn ceremony of the pipe, and when the 
chief had delivered his address of welcome, Lisa rose to 
reply, and the eyes of Hunt and his companions were 
eagerly turned upon him. He began by the usual ex- 
pressions of friendship, and then proceeded to explain 



up the Missouri 49 

the object of his own party. Those persons, however, 
said he, pointing to Mr. Hunt and his companions, are 
of a different party, and are quite distinct in their 
views; but, added he, though we are separate parties, 
we make but one common cause when the safety of 
either is concerned. Any injury or insult offered to 
them I shall consider as done to myself, and will resent 
it accordingly. I trust, therefore, that you will treat 
them with the same friendship that you have always 
manifested for me, doing everything in your power to 
serve them and to help them on their way. The 
speech of lyisa, delivered with an air of frankness and 
sincerity, agreeably surprised the rival party. 

Mr. Hunt then spoke, declaring the object of his 
journey to the great Salt Lake beyond the mountains, 
and that he should want horses for the purpose, for 
which he was ready to trade, having brought with him 
plenty of goods. Both he and Lisa concluded their 
speeches by making presents of tobacco. The chief- 
tain in reply promised his friendship and aid to the 
newcomers, and welcomed them to his village. He 
added that they could readily supply Mr. Hunt with 
all the horses he might want, since, if they had not 
enough in the village, they could easily steal more. 

The council over, the village soon presented the ap- 
pearance of a busy fair; and as horses were in demand 
the adjacent plain was like the vicinity of a Tartar en- 
campment; horses were put through all their paces, 
and horsemen were careering about with that dexterity 
and grace for which the Aricaras were noted. As soon 
as a horse was purchased, his tail was cropped, a sure 
mode of distinguishing him from the horses of the 
tribe; for the Indians disdained to practise this absurd, 
barbarous, and indecent mutilation, invented by some 



50 The Fur Traders 

mean and vulgar mind, insensible to the merit and 
perfections of the animal. On the contrary, the Indian 
horses were suffered to remain in every respect the su- 
perb and beautiful animals which nature formed them. 

Suddenly the cry was up that the Sioux were coming. 
In an instant the village was in an uproar. Men, wo- 
men, and children were all brawling and shouting; dogs 
barking, yelping, and howling. Some of the warriors 
ran to gather the horses from the prairie, some for their 
weapons. As fast as they could arm and equip, they 
sallied forth; some on horseback, some on foot. The 
women and children gathered on the tops of the lodges 
and heightened the confusion of the scene by their cries. 
Old men who could no longer bear arms harangued the 
warriors as they passed, exhorting them to valorous 
deeds. Some of the veterans took arms themselves, 
and sallied forth with tottering steps. In this way, the 
savage chivalry of the village to the number of five 
hundred poured forth, helter-skelter, riding and run- 
ning, with hideous yells and war-whoops; but after a 
while it rolled back with far less uproar, for the enemy 
had retreated on being discovered. 

One morning, just before daybreak, a great noise 
was heard in the village, and soon, on the dim hills, 
three hundred braves were discerned, returning from a 
foray. They had met the war party of Sioux who had 
been so long hovering about the neighbourhood, had 
fought them the day before, killed several, and defeated 
the rest with the loss of but two or three of their own 
men and about a dozen wounded; and they were now 
halting at a distance until their comrades in the village 
should come forth to meet them, and swell the parade 
of their triumphal entry. All the finery and equip- 
ments of the warriors were sent forth to them, that 



Up the Missouri 51 

they might appear to the greatest advantage. Those, 
too, who had remained at home, tasked their ward- 
robes and toilets to do honour to the procession. 

When, at length, the preparations were completed, 
the party drew near the village. Parents and children, 
husbands and wives, brothers and sisters met with the 
most rapturous expressions of joy; while wailings and 
lamentations were heard from the relatives of the killed 
and wounded. 

Between two of the principal chiefs rode a young 
warrior who had distinguished himself in the battle. 
He was severely wounded, so as with difficulty to keep 
on his horse; but he preserved a serene and steadfast 
countenance, as if perfectly unharmed. His mother 
had heard of his condition. She broke through the 
throng, and rushing up, threw her arms around him 
and wept aloud. He kept up the spirit and demeanour 
of a warrior to the last, but expired shortly after he 
had reached his home. 

The village was now a scene of the utmost festivity 
and triumph. The banners, and trophies, and scalps, 
and painted shields were elevated on poles near the 
lodges. There were war-feasts, and scalp-dances, with 
warlike songs and savage music; all the inhabitants 
were arrayed in their festal dresses; while the old 
heralds went round from lodge to lodge, promulgating 
with loud voices the events of the battle and the ex- 
ploits of the various warriors. 

But sounds of another kind were heard on the sur- 
rounding hills; piteous wailings of the women, who 
had retired thither to mourn in darkness and solitude 
for those who had fallen in battle. There the poor 
mother of the youthful warrior who had returned home 
in triumph but to die gave full vent to the anguish of 



52 The Fur Traders 

a mother's heart. "In Rama was there a voice heard, 
lamentation, and weeping, and great mourning, Rachel 
weeping for her children, and would not be comforted, 
because they are not." 



CHAPTER VII 

the; tstons 

ON the iSth of July, Mr. Hunt set out from the 
Aricara village by land, having disposed of his 
boats and superfluous goods to Mr. Lisa, who was to 
wait here for Mr. Henry, a partner in the Missouri Fur 
Company. With all his exertions, Mr. Hunt had been 
unable to obtain a sufficient number of horses for the 
accommodation of all his people. His cavalcade con- 
sisted of eighty-two horses, most of them heavily laden 
with Indian goods, beaver traps, ammunition, Indian 
corn, corn-meal, and other necessaries. Each of the 
partners was mounted, and a horse was allotted to the 
interpreter, Pierre Dorion, for the transportation of his 
luggage and his two children. His squaw, for the most 
part of the time, trudged on foot, like the residue of 
the party ; nor did any of the men show more patience 
and fortitude than this resolute woman in enduring 
fatigue and hardship. 

About a week after the start by land, as some of the 
hunters were in pursuit of game, they came upon an 
Indian camp on the open prairie. Reconnoitering it, 
they found that it belonged to a band of Cheyenne 
Indians who received the hunters in the most friendly 
manner; invited them to their lodges, which were 
more cleanly than Indian lodges are prone to be, and 
set food before them with true uncivilised hospitality. 

53 



54 The Fur Traders 

Several of them accompanied the hunters back to the 
camp, when a trade was immediately opened. The 
Cheyennes were astonished and delighted to find a 
convoy of goods and trinkets thus brought into the 
very heart of the prairie; while Mr. Hunt and his com- 
panions were overjoyed to have an opportunity of ob- 
taining a further supply of horses from these equestrian 
savages. 

On the 6th of August the travellers bade farewell to 
the friendly band of Cheyennes, and resumed their 
journey. As they had obtained thirty-six additional 
horses by their recent trafiBc, Mr. Hunt made a new 
arrangement, allotting a horse to each of the six prime 
hunters, and distributing the rest among the voyagetirs, 
a horse for every two, so that they could ride and 
walk alternately. 

They were now out of the tract of country infested 
by the Sioux, and had advanced such a distance into 
the interior that Mr. Hunt no longer feared the deser- 
tion of any of his men. He was privately informed, 
however, that Kdward Rose, the interpreter, was tam- 
pering with the fidelity of certain of the men. His 
plan was to induce several of the men to join with him, 
when in the neighbourhood of the Crows, whose coun- 
try they were approaching, in carrying off a number 
of the horses with their packages of goods, and desert- 
ing to those savages. He assured them of good treat- 
ment among the Crows, the principal chiefs and warriors 
of whom he knew ; they would soon become great men 
among them, and have the daughters of the chiefs for 
wives; and the horses and goods they carried off would 
make them rich for life. 

Mr. Hunt resolved to frustrate the knave by mak- 
ing it sufficiently advantageous for him to remain 



The Tetons 55 

honest. He took occasion, accordingly, in the course 
of conversation, to inform Rose that, having engaged 
him chiefly as a guide and interpreter through the 
country of the Crows, the company would not stand in 
need of his services beyond. Knowing, therefore, his 
connection by marriage with that tribe, and his predi- 
lection for a residence among them, they would put no 
restraint upon his will, but, whenever they met with a 
party of that people, would leave him at liberty to re- 
main among his adopted brethren. Furthermore, that 
in thus parting with him, they would pay him half a 
year's wages in consideration of his past services, and 
would give him a horse, three beaver traps, and sundry 
other articles calculated to set him up in the world. 
This liberality was so unexpected that Rose's whole 
manner changed; his brow cleared up; he appeared 
more cheerful; he left off his sullen, skulking habits, 
and made no further attempt to tamper with the faith 
of his comrades. 

The travellers, after much toil, had now arrived in 
the vicinity of the mountain regions infested by the 
Crow Indians. In fact, the following day had scarce 
dawned when a troop of these wild mountain scamperers 
came galloping with whoops and yells into the camp, 
bringing an invitation from their chief for the white 
men to visit him. The tents were accordingly struck, 
the horses laden, and the party were soon on the march, 
a ride of sixteen miles bringing them, in the after- 
noon, in sight of the Crow camp. 

The following day was passed in trading with the 
Crows for buffalo robes and skins, and in bartering 
galled and jaded horses for others that were in good 
condition. Some of the men, also, purchased horses on 
their own account, so that the number now amounted 



56 The Fur Traders 

to one hundred and twenty-one, most of them sound 
and active, and fit for mountain service. Their wants 
being supplied, they ceased all further trafl&c, much to 
the dissatisfaction of the Crows, who became extremely 
urgent to continue the trade, and, finding their impor- 
tunities of no avail, assumed an insolent and menacing 
tone. 

No outbreak occurred, however, for the Crows were 
daunted by the resolute demeanour of the white men, 
and the armed preparation they maintained; and Rose, 
if he still harboured his knavish design, must have 
seen that it was suspected. Next morning Mr. Hunt, 
taking a ceremonious leave of the Crow chieftain and 
his vagabond warriors, consigned to their friendship 
their worthy confederate Rose; who, having figured 
among the water pirates of the Mississippi, was well 
fitted to rise to distinction among the land pirates of 
the Rockies. He was well received among the tribe, 
and he appeared to be more at his ease among savages 
than among white men. 

Right glad to be delivered from this treacherous com- 
panion, Mr. Hunt pursued his course along the skirts 
of a mountain, in a southern direction, seeking for 
some practicable defile by which he might pass through 
it. But after two days of fruitless scrambling, he gave 
up the attempt to penetrate in the direction which he 
had taken. To his surprise Rose suddenly appeared 
in camp and announced himself a messenger of good- 
will from the chief, who, finding they had taken the 
wrong road, had sent him to guide them to a nearer 
and better one across the mountain. 

They had not gone far with this questionable guide 
before they fell in with the whole party of Crows, who, 
they now found, were going the same road with them- 



The Tetons 57 

selves. The two cavalcades pushed on together, pre- 
senting a wild and picturesque spectacle, as, equipped 
with various weapons and in various garbs, with trains 
of pack-horses, they wound in long lines through the 
rugged defiles, and up and down the crags and steeps 
of the mountains. 

As the travelling was painful to the burdened horses, 
Mr. Hunt's party was gradually left behind by the 
Crows, who had taken the lead. Certain it is that Mr. 
Hunt felt a sensation of relief as he saw the whole 
crew, the renegade Rose and all, disappear among the 
windings of the mountain, and heard the last yelp 
of the savages die away in the distance. When the 
Indians were fairly out of sight and out of hearing, 
he encamped long enough for them to get well in 
advance. 

On the 9th of September, the travellers came to a 
rapid and beautifully clear stream about a hundred 
yards wide. It is the north fork of the Big Horn 
River, but bears its peculiar name of the Wind River 
from being subject in the winter season to a continued 
blast which sweeps its banks and prevents the snow 
from lying on them. 

For five succeeding days, Mr. Hunt and his party 
continued up the course of the Wind River, to the dis- 
tance of about eighty miles, crossing and recrossing it, 
according to its windings and the nature of its banks. 
At length meeting with a beaten Indian road which 
led in the proper direction, they struck into it, turning 
their backs upon Wind River. 

In the course of the day, they came to a height that 
commanded an almost boundless prospect. Here one 
of the guides paused, and, after considering the vast 
landscape attentively, pointed to three mountain peaks 



58 The Fur Traders 

glistening with snow, which rose, he said, above a fork 
of Columbia River. They were hailed by the travellers 
with that joy with which a beacon on a sea-shore is 
hailed by mariners after a long and dangerous voyage. 
It is true there was many a weary league to be trav- 
ersed before they should reach these landmarks; and 
even after reaching them, there would yet remain hund- 
reds of miles of their journey to be accomplished; yet, 
all these matters were forgotten in the joy at seeing 
the first landmarks of the Columbia, that river which 
formed the bourne of the expedition. These remark- 
able peaks were known as the Tetons; as guiding 
points for many days to Mr. Hunt, he gave them the 
name of the Pilot Knobs. 

That day's march of forty miles carried them across 
the range of the Wind River Mountains into the valley 
of the Green River, a region destined to become famous 
in the history of the traders and trappers of the Rocky 
Mountains. Five days were passed in the fresh mead- 
ows watered by this bright little mountain stream. The 
hunters made great havoc among the buffaloes, and 
brought in quantities of meat; the voyageurs busied 
themselves about the fires, roasting and stewing for 
present purposes, or drying provisions for the journey; 
the pack-horses, eased of their burdens, rolled on the 
grass, or grazed at large about the ample pastures; 
those of the party who had no call upon their services 
indulged in the luxury of perfect relaxation, and the 
camp presented a picture of rude feasting and revelry, 
of mingled bustle and repose, characteristic of a halt in 
a fine hunting country. 

Being now well supplied with provisions, Mr. Hunt 
broke up his encampment on the 24th of September, 
and continued on to the west. A march of fifteen 



The Tetons 59 

miles, over a mountain ridge, brought them to a stream 
about fifty feet in width, which Hoback, one of their 
guides, for whom the stream has since been named, 
recognised as one of the head waters of the Columbia, 
their destination. They kept along it for two days, 
during which, from the contribution of many rills and 
brooks, it gradually swelled into a small river. Finall}^ 
it emptied into a river of greater magnitude and 
swifter current, and their united waters swept off 
through the valley in one impetuous stream, which, 
from its rapidity and turbulence, had received the name 
of Mad River — since called the Snake, from the Indian 
tribe dwelling on its banks. An important point in 
their arduous journey had been attained, a few miles 
from their camp rose the three vast snowy peaks called 
the Tetons, or the Pilot Knobs, the great landmarks 
of the Columbia, by which they had shaped their way 
through this mountain wilderness. By their feet 
flowed a stream down which they might be able to 
steer their course to the Columbia. 

As the neighbourhood was a good " trapping 
ground ' ' it was proper to begin to cast loose here 
those pairs of hardy trappers that are detached from 
trading parties in the very heart of the wilderness ; for 
trappers generally go in pairs, that they may assist, 
protect, and comfort each other in their lonely and peril- 
ous occupations. Thus Carson and St. Michel formed 
one couple, and Detaye and Delaunay another. They 
were fitted out with traps, arms, ammunition, horses, 
and every other requisite, and were to trap upon the 
upper part of Mad River, and upon the neighbouring 
streams of the mountains. This would probably oc- 
cupy them for some months; and, when they should 
have collected a sufficient quantity of peltries, they 



6o The Fur Traders 

were to pack them upon their horses and make the best 
of their way to the mouth of Columbia River, or to 
any intermediate post which might be established by 
the company. They took leave of their comrades and 
started off on their several courses with stout hearts 
and cheerful countenances. 

Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner, the three hunters 
who had hitherto served as guides among the mount- 
ains, now advised Mr. Hunt to make for the post es- 
tablished during the preceding year by Mr, Henry, of 
the Missouri Fur Company, after he had been driven 
from the upper Missouri the preceding summer by the 
hostilities of the Blackfeet. They had been with Mr. 
Henry, and, as far as they could judge by the neigh- 
bouring landmarks, his post could not be very far off. 
So, crossing the Snake and the Teton pass, they ar- 
rived, on October 8th, at the post that had been aban- 
doned by Mr. Henry in the spring, when he set out to 
rejoin Lisa at the Aricara village, where he arrived 
some time after Mr. Hunt's departure. 

The weary travellers gladly took possession of the 
deserted log huts which had formed the post; and, 
there being plenty of suitable timber in the neighbour- 
hood, Mr. Hunt immediately proceeded to construct 
canoes. As he would have to leave his horses and 
their accoutrements here, he determined to make this a 
trading post, where the trappers and hunters, to be 
distributed about the country, might repair ; and where 
the traders might touch on their way through the 
mountains to and from the establishment at the mouth 
of the Columbia. He engaged two Snake Indians, 
who had come into camp, to remain in that neighbour- 
hood and care for the horses until he could send for 
them. It was the one chance of regaining them, des- 



The Tetons 6i 

perate as it seemed to trust to the honesty of two such 
vagabonds. 

At this place, three other hunters separated from the 
party for the purpose of trapping beaver. They were 
the veteran Robinson, and his companions, Hoback 
and Rezner, who had been picked up by Mr. Hunt on 
their way back to Kentucky. 

When they and another by the name of Cass were 
about to start, Mr. Miller, a partner whom Mr. Hunt 
had taken in at St. I^ouis, called together his associates 
and in disgust threw up his share in the company and 
declared his intention of joining the party of trappers. 
As he would not be reasoned with, he was fitted out 
with a generous equipment, and allowed to cast him- 
self loose thus wantonly upon savage life. 



CHAPTER VIII 

CALDRON IvINN 

BY the i8th of October, fifteen canoes were com- 
pleted, and on the following day the party em- 
barked with their effects; leaving their horses grazing 
about the banks, and trusting to the honesty of the two 
Snakes and some special turn of good luck for their 
future recovery. 

The current bore them along at a rapid rate; the 
light spirits of the Canadian voyageurs, which had oc- 
casionally flagged upon land, rose to their accustomed 
buoyancy on finding themselves again upon the water. 
They wielded their paddes with their wonted dexterity, 
and for the first time made the mountains echo with 
their favourite boat songs. 

In the course of the day the little squadron arrived 
at the confluence of Henry and Snake rivers, which, 
thus united, swelled into a beautiful stream, navigable 
for boats of any size. The weather was cold, and it 
snowed all day, and great flocks of ducks and geese 
sporting in the water or streaming through the air 
gave token that winter was at hand; yet the hearts of 
the travellers were light, and, as they glided down the 
little river, they flattered themselves with the hope of 
soon reaching the Columbia. 

The three snowy summits of the Tetons were still 
seen towering in the distance. After pursuing a swift 

62 



Caldron Linn 63 

but placid course for twenty miles, the current began 
to foam and brawl, and assume the wild and broken 
character common to the streams west of the Rocky- 
Mountains. Two of the canoes filled among the 
breakers; the crews were saved, but much of the lading 
was lost or damaged, and one of the canoes drifted 
down the stream and was broken among the rocks. 

They consumed a great part of the next day in pass- 
ing the canoes down cautiously by a line from the im- 
pending banks; and after they had reembarked they 
were soon again impeded by rapids, when they had to 
unload their canoes and carry them and their cargoes 
for some distance by land. It is at these portages that 
the Canadian voyagacr exhibits his most valuable 
qualities; carrying heavy burdens, and toiling to and 
fro, on land and in the water, over rocks and preci- 
pices, among brakes and brambles, not only without a 
murmur, but with the greatest cheerfulness and alacrity, 
joking and laughing and singing scraps of old French 
ditties. 

They had now come near two hundred and eighty 
miles since leaving Fort Henry, yet without seeing a 
human being, or a human habitation. At length, on 
the 24th of October, they were gladdened by the sight 
of some tents, and hastened to land and visit them; 
but the savages in them fled in consternation, leaving 
behind great quantities of small fish, together with 
roots and grain, which they were drying for winter 
provisions. 

The 28th of October was a day of disaster. The 
river again became rough and impetuous, and was 
chafed and broken by numerous rapids. These grew 
more and more dangerous, and the utmost skill was 
required to steer among them. The second canoe of the 



64 The Fur Traders 

squadron had an old, experienced Canadian for steers- 
man, named Antoine Clappine, one of the most valu- 
able of the voyageurs. The leading canoe had glided 
safely among the turbulent and roaring surges; but, 
in following it, the second canoe, striking a rock, was 
split and overturned. Of the five persons on board two 
were thrown amidst roaring breakers and a whirling 
current, but succeeded in reaching the shore. Clap- 
pine and the two others clung to the shattered bark, 
and drifted with it to a rock. The wreck struck the 
rock with one end, and swinging round, flung poor 
Clappine off into the raging stream, which swept him 
away, and he perished. His comrades succeeded in 
getting upon the rock whence they were afterwards 
rescued. 

They had arrived at a terrific strait, that forbade all 
further progress in the canoes. The whole body of the 
river was compressed into a space of less than thirty 
feet in width, between two ledges of rocks, upwards of 
two hundred feet high, and formed a whirling and 
tumultuous vortex, so frightfully agitated as to re- 
ceive the name of " The Caldron Linn," Beyond this 
fearful abyss, the river kept raging and roaring on, 
until lost to sight among impending precipices. Short 
reconnaissances were made from this point, and John 
Reed, the clerk, with a party of three was sent for- 
ward to make a more extended exploration of the 
river. 

The situation of the travellers was now perilous in 
the extreme, especially as the repeated accidents to 
their canoes had reduced their stock of provisions to 
five days' allowance, and famine was added to their 
other sufierings. Accordingly, it was determined that 
several small detachments should start off in different 



Caldron Linn 65 

directions, headed by the several partners. Should 
any of them succeed in falling in with friendly Indians, 
within a reasonable distance, and obtaining a supply 
of provisions and horses, they were to return to the aid 
of the main body: otherwise they were to shift for 
themselves, and shape their course according to cir- 
cumstances; keeping the mouth of the Columbia River 
as the ultimate point of their wayfaring. Accordingly, 
three several parties set oflF from the camp at Caldron 
Linn, in opposite directions. Mr. M'Lellan, with three 
men, kept down along the bank of the river. Mr. 
Crooks, with five others, turned their steps up it; re- 
tracing by land the weary course they had made by 
water, intending, should they not find relief nearer at 
hand, to keep on until they should reach Henry's Fort, 
where they hoped to find the horses they had left there, 
and to return with them to the main body. 

The third party, composed of five men, was headed 
by Mr. M'Kenzie, who struck to the northward, across 
the desert plains, in hopes of coming upon the main 
stream of the Columbia. 

With Mr. Hunt there were left thirty-one men, and 
the squaw and two children of Pierre Dorion. They 
began caching ' their goods and baggage so as to be 

'A cache is a secret hiding-place that is carefully prepared, 
preferably in the clay bank of some stream. Blankets are 
spread over the surrounding grass and then a circle two feet in 
diameter is nicely cut in the sod, which is carefully removed 
together with the loose soil immediately beneath it. The 
opening is dug perpendicularly to the depth of three feet, and 
is then gradually widened so as to form a conical chamber six 
or seven feet deep. The earth dug from this is heaped in 
blankets and thrown into the midst of the stream that it may 
be entirely carried oflF. 
The cave thus formed is well lined with dry grass, bark, 



66 The Fur Traders 

ready to move forward afoot, if it should be necessary. 
While they were thus employed Mr. Crooks unexpect- 
edly returned, being disheartened after three days by 
the difficulties that made it impossible to reach Henry's 
Fort and return during the course of the winter. Five 
days later two of Mr. Reed's men returned to report the 
river unnavigable. In consequence, it was decided not 
to attempt navigation, but to make the best of their way 
on foot. They divided the party into two bands; Mr. 
Hunt with eighteen men, beside Pierre Dorion and his 
family, set out down one bank, and Mr. Crooks with 
eighteen others down the other bank of the Snake 
River. It was the 9th of November when they said 
good-bye to Caldron Linn, giving it, in disgust at the 
disasters here met with, the name of " The Devil's 
Scuttle Hole." 

After several days of difficult travelling, Mr. Hunt's 
party fell into a beaten track leading along the river; 
and they had not proceeded far before they met two 
Snake Indians from whom, and from fellow-tribesmen 
as scantily provided as themselves, thej^ from time 
to time got some slight help. On the 6th of December 
they were brought to a standstill by the impassable 
Blue Mountains; and next day they were greeted 
across the foaming river by Mr. Crooks and his fol- 

sticks, and poles. The property, having been well aired, is 
then laid in ; dry grass, brush, and stones are thrown in and 
trampled down, until the neck of the cache is nearly level with 
the surrounding surface, and then the sod is replaced with 
the utmost exactness, and any bushes or stones that may have 
originally been about the spot are restored to their former 
places. The blankets are removed, all tracks obliterated, the 
grass gently raised by hand to its natural position, and the 
smallest chip or straw gleaned up and thrown into the stream. 



Caldron Linn 67 

lowers, who had been turned back by the same ob- 
stacles. Their first cry was for food, and the answer 
was such food as Mr. Hunt had. Their month's wan- 
derings also had been one long struggle with hunger 
and want. 

Altogether the situation was a critical one, and Mr. 
Hunt decided to return to the Indians, only to find 
that many of the Crooks party were too weak to move 
at more than a snail's pace. In fact Mr. Crooks soon 
became too ill to move at all, and he and Mr. Hunt 
were quickly deserted, so desperate had the men be- 
come. 

Setting out with a companion or two in the hope of 
finding some aid Mr. Hunt had not proceeded far when 
he came in sight of a lodge of Shoshonies, with a num- 
ber of horses grazing around it. They came upon the 
savages by surprise, who fled in terror. They eagerly 
seized five of their horses, killed one on the spot, and, 
hastily cooking and devouring a portion, they hurried 
the rest of the meat to Mr. Crooks and to his famished 
men across the river. 

Mr. Hunt now sent forward all his men except four 
Canadians and John Day who were to remain with Mr. 
Crooks, and to follow slowly, when their strength per- 
mitted. He himself, a day later, came up with his 
main party, and, on the 24th of December, he turned 
his back on the disastrous banks of the Snake River, 
and struck westward across the mountains. On the 
29th, he came upon an Indian camp in the valley of 
the Grande Ronde, where a hearty meal restored every 
one to good spirits. 

After two days of welcome rest the travellers ad- 
dressed themselves once more to their westward journey 
and in particular to the snow-clad hills that lay in their 



68 



The Fur Traders 



path — the Blue Mountains, the last barrier between 
them and the Columbia. It was a week, however, be- 
fore they descended into the balmy valley of the Uma- 
tilla River, and came upon a camp of prosperous 
Sciatoga Indians. Here they found articles of civilised 
manufacture, and learned that several white men had 
recently descended this river. 

On the 2oth of January, after a two- weeks rest among 
these friendly Indians, Mr. Hunt set out again, reach- 
ing the Columbia the next day, and crossing to the 
road which led along its north bank. Here and there 
he picked up information concerning the men who had 
preceded him down the river, and learned in one place 
that they had overturned one of their canoes, losing 
many articles. He also had vague news concerning 
the establishment at the mouth of the Columbia, and a 
fairly correct version of the loss of the Tonquin. 

On the 31st of January, Mr. Hunt encamped at the 
village of the Wish-ram, situated at the head of ' ' the 
Long Narrows ' ' (The Dalles). He fortunately escaped 
serious trouble with its freebooting inhabitants, and 
left there in canoes on February 5th. 

Except for a portage at the cascades the canoes met 
with no further obstruction, and, on the afternoon of 
the 15th of February, 181 2, swept round an intervening 
cape, and came in sight of the settlement of Astoria, 
with its magazines, habitations, and picketed bulwarks, 
on a high point of land dominating a beautiful little 
bay, in which was a trim-built shallop riding quietly 
at anchor. A shout of joy burst from each canoe at 
the long-wished-for sight. They urged their canoes 
across the bay, and pulled with eagerness for shore, 
where all hands poured down from the settlement to 
receive and welcome them. 



Caldron Linn 69 

Among the first to greet them were some of their old 
comrades and fellow-sufferers, who, under the conduct 
of Reed, M'Lellan, and M'Kenzie, had parted from them 
at the Caldron Linn. These had reached Astoria nearly 
a month before, and, judging from their own narrow 
escape from starvation, had given up Mr. Hunt and 
his followers as lost. As to the Canadian voyageiirs, 
their mutual felicitations were loud and vociferous, 
and it was almost laughable to behold these ancient 
"comrades" and confreres hugging and kissing each 
other. 

When the first greetings were over, the different 
bands interchanged accounts of their several wander- 
ings, after separating at Snake River. It will be recol- 
lected that a small exploring detachment had proceeded 
down the river, under the conduct of Mr. John Reed, 
a clerk of the company ; that another had set off under 
M'Lellan, and a third in a different direction under 
M'Kenzie. After wandering for several days without 
meeting with Indians, or obtaining any supplies, they 
came together by chance among the Snake River 
mountains, some distance below that disastrous pass 
which had received the name of the Devil's Scuttle 
Hole. 

When thus united, their party consisted of M'Ken- 
zie, M'Lellan, Reed, and eight men, chiefly Canadians. 
Being without horses and provisions they all agreed 
that it would be useless to return to Mr. Hunt, and 
that their only course was to extricate themselves as 
soon as possible from this land of famine and make 
their way for the Columbia. 

At length, after twenty-one days, they got through 
the mountains, and reaching the Lewis River, they fell 
in with a friendly tribe of Indians. From these they 



yo The Fur Traders 

procured two canoes, in which they dropped down the 
stream to its confluence with the Columbia, and then 
down that river to Astoria, where they arrived haggard 
and emaciated, and perfectly in rags. 

Thus all the leading persons of Mr. Hunt's expedi- 
tion were once more gathered together, excepting Mr. 
Crooks, of whose safety they entertained but little 
hope, considering the feeble condition in which they 
had been compelled to leave him in the heart of the 
wilderness. 

A day was now given up to jubilee, to celebrate the 
arrival of Mr. Hunt and his companions, and the joy- 
ful meeting of the various scattered bands of adven- 
turers at Astoria. The colours were hoisted ; the guns, 
great and small, were fired; there was a feast of fish, 
of beaver, and venison, which relished well with men 
who had so long been glad to revel on horse flesh and 
dogs' meat; a genial allowance of grog was issued, and 
the festivities wound up, as usual, with a grand dance 
at night, by the Canadian voyageurs.^ 

' The distance from St. lyouis to Astoria, by the route 
travelled by Hunt, was estimated by him at thirty-five hundred 
miles. 



CHAPTER IX 

THE INDIANS OF WISH-RAM 

AS the spring opened, the little settlement of Astoria 
was in agitation, and prepared to send forth 
various expeditions. As the route of the several parties 
would be the same for nearly four hundred miles up 
the Columbia, and within that distance would lie 
through the piratical pass of the rapids, and among the 
freebooting tribes of the river, it was thought advisable 
to start about the same time and to keep together. 
Accordingly, on the 226. of March, they all set off, to 
the number of seventeen men, in two canoes, — ^John 
Reed to carry important despatches overland to Mr. 
Astor in New York ; two clerks with sufficient help to 
fetch the goods deposited by Mr, Hunt in the nine 
caches at Caldron Linn; and Robert Stuart with goods 
and reinforcements for his uncle's post at Okanagan. 

At the Ivong Narrows (The Dalles), being too few in 
number to make the portage alone, the party hired the 
Indians to aid them. The first load was convoyed by 
five men well armed, and by Reed, that gallant Irish- 
man, striding along at the head, with his tin case of 
despatches glittering on his back. In passing through 
a rocky defile, some of the thievish vagrants turned 
their horses up a narrow path and galloped off, carry- 
ing with them two bales of goods and a number of 
small articles. To follow was useless; indeed, it was 

71 



72 The Fur Traders 

with much ado that the convoy got the rest of the car- 
goes into port, and later, being joined by the rest of 
the party, they remained under arms all night, hastily 
embarking at the first peep of dawn. 

The worthies of Wish-ram were disposed to take 
further tolls of the travellers, and, if possible, to capture 
the shining tin case of despatches, which they supposed 
must be " a great medicine." Accordingly, when the 
party landed in order to pass the falls, four hundred 
of these river rufifians pressed forward with offers to 
carry the canoes and effects up the portage. These 
were accepted in regard to the canoes with great 
precautions, but when the Indians reached the head of 
the falls, they were with difiiculty kept from destroying 
both the canoes. Mr. Stuart tried to steal a march on 
them by transporting the goods during the night; but 
at daybreak there were still two loads to be brought. 

Although the Indians had given the alarm, Mr. 
Stuart despatched the men for one of the loads with a 
request to Mr. Reed to keep as many as he thought 
necessary to guard the other. Mr. Reed refused to 
keep any of the men, saying that M'l^ellan and himself 
were sufl&cient. Scarcely had the men departed, when 
the first canoe-loads of savages reached the spot. With 
a war-whoop they leaped forward to secure the glitter- 
ing tin box of John Reed, and to hoodwink M'Lellan 
with a buffalo robe. The latter escaped the accom- 
panying dagger thrust and shot his assailant through 
the heart; but Reed, still fumbling with the leather 
cover to his rifle, was stretched senseless and stripped 
in a twinkling of his rifle and pistols, and the shining 
tin box was borne off in triumph. In fact. Reed him- 
self was about to be tomahawked, when Mr. Stuart and 
eight men came charging with a cheer to the rescue, 



I 



The Indians of Wish-ram 73 

shot the miscreant, and carried Reed's almost lifeless 
body to the upper end of the portage. 

After some necessary calking the canoes were 
launched and the Indians returned to the scene of ac- 
tion, bore off the dead, and returned to their village. 
Here they killed two horses and drank the hot blood 
to give fierceness to their courage. They painted and 
arrayed themselves hideously for battle ; performed the 
dead dance round the slain, and raised the war song of 
vengeance. Then mounting their horses, to the num- 
ber of four hundred and fifty men, and brandishing 
their weapons, they set off" along the northern bank of 
the river, got ahead of the canoes, and prepared for a 
terrible revenge. Fortunately they were perceived by 
Mr. Stuart and his companions. 

Finding that the enemy had the advantage of posi- 
tion, the whites stopped short, lashed their canoes to- 
gether, fastened them to a rock at a small distance from 
the shore, and there awaited the menaced attack. Soon 
the war-chief and three of his warriors drew near in 
a canoe and informed them that the relations of the 
slain cried out for vengeance. As he wished to spare 
unnecessary bloodshed, he proposed that Mr. Reed, 
who was little better than a dead man, might be given 
up to be sacrificed to the manes of the dead. The 
hatchet would then be buried, and all thenceforward 
would be friends. The answer, a refusal and a stern 
defiance, sent the chief back to his warriors among the 
rocks. Blood for blood is a principle in Indian equity 
and Indian honour; but though the inhabitants of 
Wish-ram were men of war, they were likewise men of 
traflSc; and, after some diplomacy, they offered to com- 
promise the matter for a blanket to cover the dead, and 
some tobacco to be smoked by the living. This being 



74 The Fur Traders 

granted, the heroes of Wish-ram crossed the river once 
more, returned to their villages to feast upon the 
horses whose blood they had so vaingloriously drunk, 
and the travellers pursued their voyage without further 
molestation. 

The tin case, however, containing the important de- 
spatches for New York, was irretrievably lost; the very 
precaution taken by Reed to secure his missives had, 
by rendering them conspicuous, produced their rob- 
bery. The object of his overland journey, therefore, 
being defeated, he gave up the expedition, and went 
with the whole party to the establishment of Mr, David 
Stuart, on the Okanagan River, After remaining 
here two or three days, they all set out on their return 
to Astoria, accompanied by Mr. David Stuart, 

On their way down, when below the forks of the 
Columbia, they were hailed one day from the shore in 
English, Looking around, they descried two wretched 
men, entirely naked, who proved to be Mr, Crooks and 
his faithful follower, John Day. 

The reader will recollect that Mr. Crooks, with Day 
and four Canadians, had been so reduced by famine 
and fatigue, that Mr. Hunt was obliged to leave them, 
in the month of December, on the banks of the Snake 
River, Their situation was the more critical, as they 
were in the neighbourhood of a band of Shoshonies, 
whose horses had been forcibly seized by Mr, Hunt's 
party for provisions, Mr. Crooks remained here twenty 
days, detained by the extremely reduced state of John 
Day, who was utterly unable to travel, and whom he 
would not abandon, as Day had been in his employ 
on the Missouri, and had always proved himself most 
faithful. Fortunately the Shoshonies did not offer to 
molest them. They had never before seen white men, 



The Indians of Wish-ram 75 

and seemed to entertain some supersitions with regard 
to them, for though they would encamp near them in 
the daytime, they would move off with their tents in 
the night; and finally disappeared, without taking leave. 

When Day was sufficiently recovered to travel, they 
kept feebly on, sustaining themselves as well as they 
could. At length, coming to a low prairie, they lost 
every appearance of the " trail," and wandered during 
the remainder of the winter in the mountains, subsist- 
ing sometimes on horse meat, sometimes on beavers 
and their skins, and a part of the time on roots. At 
length, finding the snow sufficiently diminished, they 
undertook to cross the last mountain ridge, and happilj^ 
succeeded, afterwards falling in with the Walla-Wallas, 
a tribe inhabiting the banks of the river of the same 
name, and reputed as being frank, hospitable, and sin- 
cere. They proved worthy of the character, for they 
received the poor wanderers kindly, killed a horse for 
them to eat, and directed them on their way to the 
Columbia. They struck the river about the middle of 
April, and advanced down it until they met with some 
of the " chivalry " of Wish-ram, who received them in 
a friendly way, and set food before them; but, while 
they were satisfying their hunger, perfidiously seized 
their rifles, stripped them naked, and drove them off, 
refusing the entreaties of Mr. Crooks for a flint and 
steel of which they had robbed him; and threatening 
his life if he did not instantly depart. 

In this forlorn plight they now sought to find their 
way back to the hospitable Walla-Wallas, and had ad- 
vanced eighty miles along the river, when fortunately, 
on the very morning that they were going to leave the 
Columbia and strike inland, the canoes of Mr. Stuart 
hove in sight. 



76 The Fur Traders 

It is needless to describe the joy of these poor men 
at once more finding themselves among countrymen 
and friends, or of the honest and hearty welcome with 
which they were received by their fellow adventurers. 
The whole party now continued down the river, passed 
all the dangerous places without interruption, and 
arrived safely at Astoria on the nth of May, the day 
after the annual ship arrived there from New York. 

Although Mr. Astor had as yet heard nothing of the 
success of the previous expeditions, he proceeded upon 
the presumption that everything had been effected ac- 
cording to his instructions. He accordingly fitted out 
a fine ship of four hundred and ninety tons, called the 
Beaver, and freighted her with a valuable cargo destined 
for the factory at the mouth of the Columbia, the trade 
along the coast, and the supply of the Russian estab- 
lishment. In this ship embarked a reinforcement, con- 
sisting of a partner, Mr. John Clarke, five clerks, fif- 
teen American labourers, and six Canadian voyageurs. 

On October lo, 1811, the ^^az/^r left New York, ar- 
rived off the mouth of the Columbia the 6th of May, 
1812, and, running as near as possible, fired two signal 
guns. No answer was returned, nor was there any 
signal to be descried. Night coming on, the ship 
stood out to sea, and every heart drooped as the land 
faded away. On the following morning they again 
ran in within four miles of the shore, and fired other 
signal guns, but still without reply. A boat was then 
despatched, to sound the channel, and attempt an en- 
trance; but returned without success, there being a 
tremendous swell and breakers. Signal guns were 
fired again in the evening, but equally in vain, and 
once more the ship stood off to sea for the night. The 
Captain now gave up all hope of finding any establish- 




I- "! 

u. 6 
O 2 



1 



i 



The Indians of Wish-ram '^'j 

ment at the place, and indulged in the most gloomy 
apprehensions. He feared his predecessors had been 
massacred before they had reached their place of destin- 
ation ; or if they had erected a factory, that it had been 
surprised and destroyed by the natives. 

The next morning the ship stood in for the third 
time, and fired three signal guns, when, to the great 
joy of the crew, three distinct guns were heard in 
answer, and a white flag was hoisted on Cape Disap- 
pointment. Captain Sowle, however, recollected the 
instructions given him by Mr. Astor, and determined 
to proceed with great circumspection, being well aware 
of Indian treachery and cunning. 

On the following morning, May 9th, the vessel came 
to anchor off the cape, outside of the bar. Towards 
noon an Indian canoe was seen making for the ship, 
and a few moments afterwards, a barge was perceived 
following it. The hopes and fears of those on board 
of the ship were in tumultuous agitation as the boat 
drew nigh that was to let them know the fortunes of 
the enterprise and the fate of their predecessors. The 
Captain, on the other hand, did not let his curiosity get 
the better of his caution, but kept his men under arms 
to receive the visitors, those in the canoe proving to be 
Comcomly and six Indians, in the barge M'Dougal, 
M'Lellan, and eight Canadians. In a moment all fears 
were dispelled, and the Beaver, crossing the bar under 
their pilotage, anchored safely in Baker's Bay. 

The arrival of the Beaver with a reinforcement and 
supplies gave new life and vigour to affairs at Astoria. 
These were means for extending the operations of the 
establishment, and founding interior trading-posts. 
Two parties were immediately set on foot to proceed 
severally under the command of Messrs. M'Kenzie and 



78 The Fur Traders 

Clarke, and establish posts above the forks of the 
Columbia, at points where most rivalry and opposition 
were apprehended from the Northwest Company, 

A third party, headed by Mr. David Stuart, was to 
repair with supplies to the post of that gentleman on 
the Okanagan. In addition to these expeditions, a 
fourth was necessary to convey despatches to Mr. Astor, 
at New York, in place of those unfortunately lost by 
John Reed. The safe conveyance of these despatches 
was highly important, as by them Mr. Astor would 
receive an account of the state of the factory, and regu- 
late his reinforcements and supplies accordingl5^ The 
mission, one of peril and hardship, was confided to 
Robert Stuart, who, though he had never been across 
the mountains, and a very young man, had given 
proofs of his competency to the task. Four trusty and 
well-tried men, who had come overland in Mr. Hunt's 
expedition, were given him as his guides and hunters. 
Mr. M'Lellan expressed his determination to take this 
opportunity of returning to the Atlantic States, a re- 
solve in which he was joined by Mr. Crooks, who was 
ready to retrace his steps and brave every danger and 
hardship, rather than remain at Astoria. 

The several parties we have mentioned all set off in 
company on the 29th of June, under a salute of cannon 
from the fort. Their number, collectively, was nearly 
sixty, consisting of partners and clerks, Canadian voy- 
ageurs, Sandwich Islanders, and American hunters; 
and they embarked in two barges and ten canoes. 

After the departure of the different brigades, the 
Beaver prepared for her voyage along the coast, and 
her visit to the Russian establishment at New Arch- 
angel, where she was to carry supplies. It had been 
determined in the council of partners at Astoria that 



The Indians of Wish-ram 79 

Mr. Hunt should embark in this vessel, for the pur- 
pose of acquainting himself with the coasting trade, 
and of making arrangements with the commander of 
the Russian post, and that he should be relanded in 
October at Astoria by the Beaver, on her way to the 
Sandwich Islands and Canton. 

The month of October elapsed without the return of 
the Beaver. November, December, January passed 
away, and still nothing was seen or heard of her. 
Gloomy apprehensions now began to be entertained. 
M'Dougal, who had now the charge of the establish- 
ment, no longer evinced the bustling confidence and 
buoyancy which once characterised him, for he gave 
way to the most abject despondency, decrying the 
whole enterprise, and foreboding nothing but evil. 

While in this moody state, he was surprised, on the 
1 6th of January, by the sudden appearance of M'Ken- 
zie, wayworn and weather-beaten by a long wintry 
journey from his post on the Shahaptan. M'Kenzie 
had been heartily disgusted and disappointed at his 
post. It was in the midst of the Tushepaw^s, a power- 
ful and warlike nation divided into many tribes, under 
different chiefs, who possessed innumerable horses, 
but, not having turned their attention to beaver trap- 
ping, had no furs to offer. 

In this emergency M'Kenzie began to think of aban- 
doning his unprofitable post, sending his goods to the 
posts of Clarke and David Stuart, who could make a 
better use of them, as they were in a good beaver 
country, and returning with his party to Astoria, to 
seek some better destination. With this intention he 
made his way to the post of Mr. Clarke, with whom 
he was in conference when Mr. McTavish, a partner 
of the Northwest Company, who had charge of the 



8o The Fur Traders 

rival trading-posts in that neighbourhood, came bust- 
ling in upon them. He had just received an express 
from Canada, containing the declaration of war and 
President Madison's proclamation, and he capped the 
climax of this obliging but warlike news by inform- 
ing them that he was ordered to join the British armed 
ship Isaac Todd at the mouth of the Columbia about 
the beginning of March for the purpose of seizing the 
American post and of getting possession of the river 
trade. 

This news determined M'Kenzie, who immediately- 
returned to the Shahaptan, broke up his establishment, 
deposited his goods in caches, and hastening with all his 
people to Astoria, brought dismay to M'Dougal. They 
both gave up all hope of maintaining their post at As- 
toria, fearing the loss of the Beaver; they could receive 
no aid from the United States, as all the ports would be 
blockaded; and from England nothing could be ex- 
pected but hostility. It was determined, therefore, to 
abandon the establishment in the course of the follow- 
ing spring, and return across the Rocky Mountains. 

In the meantime, M'Kenzie set off for his post at 
the Shahaptan, to get his goods from the caches, and 
buy horses and provisions with them for the caravan 
across the mountains. He was charged with des- 
patches from M'Dougal to Messrs. Stuart and Clarke, 
apprising them of the intended migration, that they 
might make timely preparations. He and his men 
ascended the river without any incident of importance, 
until they arrived in the eventful neighbourhood of the 
rapids. They made the portage of the narrows and 
the falls early in an afternoon, and, having partaken 
of a scanty meal, had a long evening on their hands. 

On the opposite side of the river lay the village of 



I 



The Indians of Wish-ram 8i 

Wish-ram, of freebooting renown, where lived the sav- 
ages who had maltreated Reed, and robbed him 
of his tin box of despatches, and who still retained 
his rifle as a trophy, M'Kenzie offered to cross the 
river and demand the rifle, if any one would accom- 
pany him. It was a hare-brained project; yet two 
volunteers promptly stepped forward : Alfred Seton, 
the clerk, and Joe de la Pierre, the cook. On landing, 
the trio freshly primed their rifles and pistols, and 
ascended to the village along a path winding for about 
a hundred yards among rocks and crags. Not a soli- 
tary being, man, woman, or child, greeted them, until, 
on entering the village, a boy made his appearance and 
pointed to a house of larger dimensions than the rest. 
They had to stoop when they entered it, and in an in- 
stant they found themselves in a large, rude chamber 
around which a large number of Indians were squatted 
in rows. A single glance suflBced to show the three 
the grim and dangerous assembly into which they had 
intruded, and that retreat was cut oft' by the men 
who blocked up the entrance. 

When the chief had motioned for them to take their 
seats, a dead pause ensued. The grim warriors around 
sat like statues, each muffled in his robe, with his fierce 
eyes bent on the intruders. 

"Keep your eyes on the chief while I am addressing 
him," said M'Kenzie to his companions. "Should he 
give any sign to his band, shoot him and make for the 
door." 

He then made a regular speech, explaining the ob- 
ject of their visit, and proposing to give in exchange 
for the rifle two blankets, an axe, some beads and to- 
bacco. When he had done, the chief began to address 
him in a low voice, but ended by working himself up 

6 



82 The Fur Traders 

into a furious passion. He upbraided the white men 
for their sordid conduct in passing and repassing 
through their neighbourhood without giving them a 
blanket or any other article of goods, merely because 
they had no furs to barter in exchange, and he alluded, 
with menaces of vengeance, to the death of the Indian 
killed by the whites in the skirmish at the falls. 

As the speaker proceeded, M'Kenzie and his com- 
panions gradually rose on their feet and brought their 
rifles to a horizontal position, the muzzle of M'Kenzie's 
piece being within three feet of the speaker's heart. 
They cocked their rifles and coolly advanced to the 
door, the Indians falling back in awe and suffering 
them to pass. As they emerged from this dangerous 
den, they took the precaution to keep along the tops of 
the rocks on their way back to the canoe, and reached 
their camp in safety, congratulating themselves on 
their escape, and feeling no desire to make a second 
visit to the grim warriors of Wish-ram. 

M'Kenzie and his party resumed their journey the 
next morning. At some distance above the falls of 
the Columbia, they met two bark canoes coming down 
the river to the full chant of a set of Canadian voy- 
ageurs. It was a detachment of Northwesters, under 
the command of Mr. John George M'Tavish, bound, 
full of song and spirit, to the mouth of the Columbia, 
to await the arrival of the Isaac Todd. 

M'Kenzie and M'Tavish came to a halt and en- 
camped together for the night. The voyageurs of 
either party hailed each other as brothers and old 
"comrades," and they mingled together as if united 
by one common interest, instead of belonging to rival 
companies and trading under hostile flags. 

In the morning they proceeded on their different 



The Indians of Wish-ram S^ 

ways, in style corresponding to their different fortunes : 
the one toiling painfully against the stream, the other 
sweeping down gaily with the current. 

M'Kenzie arrived safely at his deserted post on the 
Shahaptan, but found, to his chagrin, that his caches 
had been discovered and rifled by the Indians. He 
sent out men in all directions to endeavour to discover 
the thieves, and despatched a messenger to the posts 
of Messrs. Clarke and David Stuart, with the letters 
of Mr. M'Dougal. These two gentlemen had been 
very successful at their posts, and considered it rash to 
abandon, on the first diflSculty, an enterprise of such 
great cost and ample promise. They made no arrange- 
ments, therefore, for leaving the country, but acted 
with a view to the maintenance of their new and pros- 
perous establishments. 

As the regular time approached when the partners 
of the interior posts were to rendezvous at the mouth of 
the Walla-Walla, on their way to Astoria, with the 
peltries they had collected, Mr. Clarke packed all his 
furs, and, leaving a clerk and four men to take charge 
of the post, departed on the 25th of May with the resi- 
due of his force. At the mouth of the Walla-Walla he 
found Messrs. Stuart and M'Keuzie awaiting them; 
the latter having recovered part of the goods stolen 
from his caches. The parties thus united formed a 
squadron of two boats and six canoes, with which they 
performed their voyage in safety down the river, and 
arrived at Astoria on the 12th of June, bringing with 
them a valuable stock of peltries. 



CHAPTER X 

1,0 VK AND WAR 

THE partners found Mr. M'Dougal in all the bustle 
of preparation; having about nine days pre- 
viously announced at the factory his intention of break- 
ing up the establishment, and fixed upon the ist of July 
for the time of departure. His old sympathies with the 
Northwest Company seemed to have revived. He had 
received M'Tavish and his party as though they were 
friends and allies, instead of being a party of observa- 
tion, come to reconnoitre the state of affairs at Astoria, 
and to await the arrival of a hostile ship. For had 
they been left to themselves, they would have been 
starved off for want of provisions, or driven away by 
the Chi nooks, who only wanted a signal from the fac- 
tory to treat them as intruders and enemies. 

M'Dougal was sorely disappointed at finding that 
Messrs. Stuart and Clarke had omitted to comply with 
his request to purchase horses and provisions for the 
caravan across the mountains, for it was now too late 
to make the necessary preparations in time for travers- 
ing the mountains before winter. In the meantime, 
the non -arrival of the annual ship and the probable loss 
of the Beaver and of Mr. Hunt had their effect upon 
the minds of Messrs. Stuart and Clarke, who with 
much reluctance at last consented to the plan of aban- 
doning the country in the ensuing year. 

84 



Love and War 85 

Having made their arrangement, the four partners, 
on the I St of July, signed a formal manifesto, stating 
the alarming state of their affairs, and as by the com- 
pany's agreement they were authorised to abandon 
this undertaking and dissolve the concern if it should 
be found unprofitable, they now formally announced 
their intention to do so on the ist day of June, of the 
ensuing year, unless in the interim they should receive 
the necessary support and supplies from Mr. Astor, or 
the stockholders, with orders to continue. 

This instrument, accompanied by private letters of 
similar import, was delivered to Mr. M'Tavish, who 
departed on the 5th of July. He engaged to forward 
the despatches to Mr. Astor by the usual winter ex- 
press sent overland by the Northwest Compan5\ 

Somewhat later in this same month of July, M'Dou- 
gal suddenly conceived the idea of seeking in marriage 
the daughter of Comcomly, the one-eyed potentate 
who held sway over the fishing tribe of Chinooks, and 
had long supplied the factory with smelts and stur- 
geons. Now, Comcomly was a great friend of M'Dougal, 
and pleased with the idea of having so distinguished a 
son-in-law; but so favourable a chance to benefit his 
own fortune was not likely to occur again, and must be 
made the most of. 

At length the preliminaries were all happily adjusted. 
On the 20th of July, early in the afternoon, a squadron 
of canoes crossed over from the village of the Chinooks, 
bearing the royal family of Comcomly and all his 
court. A horse was in waiting to receive the princess, 
who was mounted behind one of the clerks, and thus 
convej^ed to the fortress, where she was received by 
her expectant bridegroom. After copious ablutions had 
freed her from the paints and ointments of her bridal 



86 The Fur Traders 

toilet, she entered the nuptial state, the cleanest prin- 
cess that had ever been known of the somewhat unctu- 
ous tribe of the Chinooks. 

The honeymoon had scarce passed away when, about 
noon of the 20th of August, a ship was reported at the 
mouth of the river — a bit of news that produced a vast 
sensation. Was it the Beaver or the Isaac Todd? Was 
it peace or war ? When at length the American flag 
was recognised by the straining e5''es on shore, a great 
shout expressed the first joy of all, and then a welcome 
was thundered from the cannon of the fort ; for it was 
an American ship, though a strange one, and on it was 
Mr. Hunt. Mr. Hunt was hailed as one risen from 
the dead, and his return was a signal for merriment 
almost equal to that which prevailed at the nuptials 
ofM'Dougal. 

The Beaver^ after she had sailed from Astoria on the 
4th of August, 1812, met with nothing worthy of par- 
ticular mention in her voyage, and arrived at New 
Archangel on the 19th of August. The place at that 
time was the residence of Count Baranhoff, the gover- 
nor of the different colonies; a rough, rugged, hospit- 
able, hard-drinking old Russian ; somewhat of a soldier, 
somewhat of a trader; above all, a boon companion. 

The greatest annoyance to Mr. Hunt, however, was 
the delay to which he was subjected, for with all the 
governor's devotions to the bottle, he never lost sight 
of his own interest, and was as keen, not to say crafty, 
at a bargain as the most arrant water-drinker. To 
add to the delay Mr. Hunt was to be paid for his cargo 
in seal skins, for which he must proceed to a seal- 
catching establishment, which the Russian company 
had at the island of St. Paul, in the Sea of Kamtschatka. 
Setting sail thither, after having spent forty-five days 



i 



Love and War 87 

at New Archangel boosing and bargaining with its 
roystering commander, he arrived at St. Paul on the 
31st of October; by which time, according to arrange- 
ment, he ought to have been back at Astoria. The 
operation of loading the ship was somewhat slow, for it 
was necessary to overhaul and inspect every pack of 
skins, to prevent imposition, and the peltries had then 
to be conveyed in large boats to the ship, which was 
some little distance from the shore, standing off and 
on. It happened one night, while Mr. Hunt was on 
shore with some of the crew, there arose a terrible gale 
that drove the ship far off to sea. 

At length, on the 13th of November, the Beaver 
made her appearance, badly damaged in her canvas 
and rigging. Mr. Hunt lost no time in hurrying the 
residue of the cargo on board of her; then, bidding 
adieu to his seal-fishing friends and his whalebone 
habitation, he put forth once more to sea. 

He was now for making the best of his way to As- 
toria, and fortunate would it have been for the interests 
of that place, and the interests of Mr. Astor, had he 
done so; but, unluckily, a perplexing question rose in 
his mind. Would the ship be able to stand the hard 
gales to be expected in making Columbia River at this 
season ? Was it prudent also at this boisterous time 
of the year to risk the valuable cargo which she now 
had on board, by crossing and recrossing the dangerous 
bar of that river ? Further, the lateness of the season 
and the unforeseen delays the ship had encountered at 
New Archangel, and by being obliged to proceed to 
St. Paul, had put her so much back in her calculated 
time that there was a risk of her arriving so late at 
Canton as to come to a bad market, both for the sale 
of her peltries and the purchase of a return cargo. He 



88 The Fur Traders 

considered it to the interest of the company, therefore, 
that he should proceed at once to the Sandwich Islands; 
there await the arrival of the annual vessel from New 
York, take passage in her to Astoria, and suffer the 
Beaver to continue on to Canton. 

Mr. Hunt persuaded himself that it was a matter of 
necessity, and that the distressed condition of the ship 
left him no alternative. They accordingly stood for 
the Sandwich Islands, where the ship underwent the 
necessary repairs, and again put to sea on the ist of 
January, 1813, leaving Mr. Hunt at the islands. The 
Beaver arrived safe at Canton, where she was laid up 
to await the return of peace. 

In the meanwhile, Mr. Hunt soon saw reason to re- 
pent the resolution he had adopted in altering the 
destination of the ship. His stay at the Sandwich 
Islands was prolonged far beyond all expectation. At 
length, about the 20th of June, the ship Albatross 
arrived from China, bringing the first tidings of the 
war to the Sandwich Islands. Mr. Hunt was no longer 
in doubt and perplexity as to the reason of the non- 
appearance of the annual ship, and, concluding that 
the Astorians would be in want of provisions, he char- 
tered the Albatross for two thousand dollars to land 
him, with some supplies, at the mouth of the Colum- 
bia, where he arrived after a year's seafaring, on the 
20th of August. 

Mr. Hunt was overwhelmed with surprise when he 
learnt the resolution taken by the partners to abandon 
Astoria, He soon found, however, that matters had 
gone too far, and the minds of his colleagues had be- 
come too firmly bent upon the measure, to render any 
opposition of avail. He was beset, too, with the same 
disparaging accounts of the interior trade and of the 



Love and War 89 

whole concerns and prospects of the company that had 
been rendered to Mr. Astor. His own experience had 
been full of perplexities and discouragements. By 
degrees, therefore, he was brought to acquiesce in the 
step taken by his colleagues, as perhaps advisable 
under the circumstances; his only care was to wind up 
the business with as little further loss as possible to Mr. 
Astor. A large stock of valuable furs must be got to a 
market; and the twenty-five Sandwich Islanders in the 
employ of the company must be restored to their native 
country. For these purposes he must seek a ship, as 
the present one was not available, being bound to the 
Marquesas. 

Having arranged matters during a sojourn of six days 
at Astoria, Mr. Hunt set sail again in the Albatross on 
the 26th of August, and arrived without accident at the 
Marquesas. He had not been there long when Porter 
arrived in the frigate Essex, bringing in a number of 
stout London whalers as prizes, having made a sweep- 
ing cruise in the Pacific. From Commodore Porter he 
received the alarming intelligence that the British 
frigate Phcebc, with a storeship mounting several pieces, 
had arrived at Rio Janeiro, where she had been joined 
by the sloops of war Cherub and Raccoon^ and that they 
had all sailed in company on the 6th of July, for the 
Pacific bound to the Columbia River. 

In this tantalising state of suspense, Mr. Hunt was 
detained at the Marquesas until November 23d, when he 
proceeded in the Albatross to the Sandwich Islands. 
He still cherished a faint hope that, notwithstanding 
the war and all other discouraging circumstances, the 
annual ship might have been sent by Mr. Astor, and 
might have touched at the islands and proceeded to 
the Columbia. In this he did but justice to Mr. Astor; 



90 The Fur Traders 

for he found at Honolulu a remnant of the crew of the 
annual ship, and learned from the captain of the Lark, 
as she was called, how her prosperous voyage had 
ended in storm and wreck near those islands, to which 
they drifted after much exposure. 

Mr. Hunt immediately purchased a brig called the 
Pedler, and put Captain Northrop in command of her, 
setting sail for Astoria on the 22d January, and 
intending to remove the property thence to the Rus- 
sian settlements on the north-west coast, to prevent it 
from falling into the hands of the British. 



CHAPTER XI 

TREACHERY OR VALOUR ? 

ABOUT five weeks after Mr. Hunt had sailed frota 
Astoria, Mr. M'Kenzie set off for the posts of 
Messrs. Stuart and Clarke, to apprise them of the new 
arrangements determined upon in the recent conference 
of the partners at the factory. He had not ascended 
the river a hundred miles when he met a squadron of 
ten canoes commanded by M'Tavish and another part- 
ner of the Northwest Company. With them Mr. 
Clarke came as passenger, the alarming news having 
brought him down from his post on the Spokan; 
for they were on their way to meet a British frigate 
and an armed transport at the mouth of the Columbia. 
Accordingly Mr. M'Kenzie returned too, in view of the 
crisis that had been reached. 

The Northwest Brigade, seventy-five strong, reached 
Astoria on the 7th of October, 18 13, encamping under 
the guns of the fort, and displaying the British colours. 
On the next day the visitors proposed to M'Dougal to 
purchase the entire stock of goods and furs belonging 
to the company, both at Astoria and in the interior. 
They made their demands in a peremptory tone, and 
seemed disposed to dictate like conquerors, although 
they had lost their ammunition, and had no goods to 
trade with the natives for provisions. In fact, they 
were so destitute that M'Dougal had absolutely to feed 

91 



92 The Fur Traders 

them, while he negotiated with them. He, on the 
contrary, was well lodged and victualled; had sixty 
men, with arms, ammunition, boats, and ev^erything 
requisite either for defence or retreat. The party, be- 
neath the guns of his fort, were at his mercy; should 
an enemy appear in the offing, he could pack up the 
most valuable part of the property and retire to some 
place of concealment, or make off for the interior. 

To the great indignation of the native Americans, 
these considerations had no weight with Mr. M'Dou- 
gal, or were overruled by other motives. The terms of 
sale were lowered by him to the standard fixed by 
Messrs. M'Tavish and Stuart, and an agreement was 
executed on the i6th of October, by which the furs and 
merchandise of all kinds in the country, belonging to 
Mr. Astor, passed into the possession of the Northwest 
Company at about a third of their value. * A safe pass- 
age through the Northwest posts was guaranteed to 
such as did not choose to enter into the service of that 
company, and the amount of wages due to them was 
to be deducted from the price paid for Astoria. 

The conduct and motives of Mr. M'Dougal through- 
out the whole of this proceeding were strongly ques- 
tioned by the other partners. He always insisted, 
however, that he made the best bargain that circum- 
stances would permit; the frigate being hourly ex- 
pected and the whole property liable to capture ; 
that the return of Mr. Hunt was problematical, the 
frigate intending to cruise along the coast for two 
years, and clear it of all American vessels. Of these 

' Not quite ^40,000 was allowed for furs worth upwards of 
f 100,000. Moreover, the goods and merchandise for the Indian 
trade ought to have brought three times the amount for which 
they were sold. 



Treachery or Valour ? 93 

suspicions this only can be said, that Mr. M'Dougal, 
shortly after concluding this agreement, became a mem- 
ber of the Northwest Company, and received a share 
productive of a handsome income. 

On the 30th of November, a ship of war, which proved 
to be the British sloop of war Raccoon, doubled Cape 
Disappointment and came to anchor in Baker's Bay. 
The officers of the Raccoon were in high spirits, for the 
agents of the Northwest Company, in instigating the 
expedition, had talked of immense booty to be made by 
the fortunate captors of Astoria, so that not a midship- 
man but revelled in dreams of ample prize-money, nor 
a lieutenant that would have sold his chance for a 
thousand pounds. Their disappointment, therefore, 
may easily be conceived when they learned that their 
warlike attack upon Astoria had been forestalled by a 
snug commercial arrangement; that their anticipated 
booty had become British property in the regular 
course of traffic, and that all this had been efiected by 
the very company which had been instrumental in 
getting them sent on what they now stigmatised as a 
fool's errand. They felt as if they had been duped and 
made tools of by a set of shrewd men of traffic, who had 
employed them to crack the nut, while they carried off 
the kernel. In a word, M'Dougal found himself so 
ungraciously received by his countrymen on board of 
the ship that he was glad to cut short his visit and 
return to shore. 

Old Comcomly had beheld, with dismay, the arrival 
of a "big war canoe" displaying the British flag. 
Trembling for the power of his white son-in-law and 
the new-fledged grandeur of his daughter, he assembled 
his warriors in all haste. "King George," said he, 
** has sent his great canoe to destroy the fort and make 



94 The Fur Traders 

slaves of all the inhabitants. Shall we suffer it ? The 
Americans are the first white men that have fixed them- 
selves in the land. They have treated us like brothers. 
Their great chief has taken my daughter to be his 
squaw : we are, therefore, as one people. ' ' 

His warriors all determined to stand by the Ameri- 
cans to the last, and to this effect they came painted 
and armed for battle. Comcomly made a spirited war- 
speech to his son-in-law. He offered to kill every one 
of King George's men that should attempt to land. It 
was an easy matter. The ship could not approach 
within six miles of the fort ; the crew could land only 
in boats. The woods reached to the water's edge; in 
these he and his warriors would conceal themselves 
and shoot down the enemy as fast as they put foot on 
shore. 

M'Dougal assured Comcomly, however, that his 
solicitude for the safety of himself and the princess was 
superfluous; for, though the ship belonged to King 
George, her crew would not injure the Americans or 
their Indian allies. He advised him and his warriors, 
therefore, to lay aside their weapons and war shirts, 
wash off the paint from their faces and bodies, and ap- 
pear like clean and civil savages, to receive the strang- 
ers courteously. 

On the 1 2th of December the fate of Astoria was 
consummated by a regular ceremonial. Captain Black, 
attended by his officers, entered the fort, caused the 
British standard to be erected, broke a bottle of wine, 
and declared, in a loud voice, that he took possession 
of the establishment and of the country in the name of 
his Britannic Majesty, changing the name of Astoria 
to that of Fort George. 

The Indian warriors who had offered their services 



Treachery or Valour ? 95 

to repel the strangers were present on this occasion. 
When it was explained to them as being a friendly- 
arrangement and transfer, they shook their heads 
grimly, and regretted that they had complied with 
M'Dougal's wishes in laying aside their arms. Com- 
comly no longer prided himself upon his white son-in- 
law, but said that his daughter had made a mistake, 
and, instead of getting a great warrior for a husband, 
had married herself to a squaw. 

Events had moved so rapidly that when Mr. Hunt, 
on the brig Pedler, reached Astoria on the last day of 
February, 1813, he found no goods or furs to remove 
and that his trusted associate, M'Dougal, had acted, if 
not a perfidious, certainly a craven part. With diffi- 
culty he secured the papers of the Pacific Fur Company ; 
and then, remitting by the overland party to Mr. Astor 
the drafts on the Northwest Company by which the 
transfer had been completed, he bade a final adieu to 
Astoria on the 3d of April, 1814. 

The next day Messrs. Clarke, M'Kenzie, David 
Stuart, and such other of the Astorians as had not 
entered the service of the Northwest Company set out 
to cross the Rocky Mountains. One incident of their 
return trip is worth recounting for the light it throws 
on the fate of several men already mentioned in this 
story, and as a fitting end to the tragedy of Astoria. 

Near the mouth of the Walla Walla they were hailed 
in French by a squaw who proved to be the wife of 
Pierre Dorion, the interpreter. She and her two child- 
ren had, as usual, accompanied her husband during the 
previous summer, when he was assigned as hunter to 
the party of Mr. John Reed, who was to trap along the 
Snake River. During the autumn the party lost two 



g6 The Fur Traders 

of the voyageurs, one by death and the other by deser- 
tion, but the numbers were increased by their finding 
Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner, the three hunters who 
had been detached by Mr. Hunt the year before. 

After Reed had built his winter quarters on the Snake 
River, he divided his party by sending Rezner, Le 
Clerc, and Dorion a five days' journey away. There 
they built a hut and trapped with success, Dorion' s 
wife dressing the skins and preparing the meals. She 
was thus engaged one evening early in January, when 
lyC Clerc staggered into the hut, pale and bleeding, and 
with scarcely strength left to tell her that Rezner and 
her husband had been surprised and killed, while at 
their traps, by a party of Indians. 

The poor woman showed instantly that presence of 
mind for which she had frequently been noted. With 
great diflEiculty she caught two of the horses, helped 
the wounded man on one, and mounted the other with 
her two children, and hurried from the dangerous 
neighbourhood. After four days passed in utter mis- 
ery, during which L,e Clerc died, she reached Mr. 
Reed's house, only to find it the scene of blood and 
massacre. In fresh horror the resolute woman kept on 
until, near the upper waters of the Walla Walla River, 
she chose a lonely ravine for her winter refuge. She 
built a rude wigwam beside a mountain spring, and 
killed her horses for food, dragging out the winter 
thus until the middle of March. Then, slinging her 
pack across her back, she trudged to the mouth of the 
Walla Walla, where she was well treated by the In- 
dians of that name, and had been among them nearly 
two weeks when the party of Astorians, returning 
overland, was espied and hailed. 

The narrative of the Indian woman completed the 



Treachery or Valour ? 97 

tale of the adventures of honest John Reed, of Pierre 
Dorion, the hybrid interpreter, and, among others, of 
that trio of Kentuckians, Robinson, Rezner, and Ho- 
back, who twice turned back, when on their homeward 
way, and lingered in the wilderness to perish by the 
hands of savages. 

The return parties from Astoria, both by land and 
sea, experienced many adventures and mishaps, and 
reached New York at different times, bearing to Mr. 
Astor tidings of the unfortunate end of his enterprise. 

At the return of peace in 1814, Astoria and the ad- 
jacent country reverted in name to the United States 
on the principle of a return to the condition existing 
before the war; and in 18 16 Congress passed a law 
prohibiting all traffic of British traders within the 
boundaries of the United States. This measure com- 
pelled the Northwest Company to part with such of its 
American trade as centred about the Great Lakes; but 
along the Columbia River and its chief tributaries the 
company was now in complete occupation, holding 
the posts which Mr. Astor had established, and carry- 
ing on a trade throughout the neighbouring region in 
defiance of this prohibitory law, which, in effect, was a 
dead letter beyond the mountains. 

The ferocious and bloody contests which had taken 
place between the rival trading parties of the North- 
west and Hudson Bay Companies had shown what 
might be expected from commercial feuds in the law- 
less depths of the wilderness. Mr. Astor did not think 
it advisable, therefore, to attempt the revival of his 
favourite enterprise without the protection of the Amer- 
ican flag, under which his people might rally in case of 
need. He accordingly made an informal overture to 



98 The Fur Traders 

the President of the United States, Mr. Madison, 
through Mr. Gallatin, oflfering to renew his enterprise, 
and to re-establish Astoria, provided it would be pro- 
tected by the American flag, and made a military post; 
stating that the whole force required would not exceed 
a lieutenant's command. But no step was taken by 
the government, and the favourable moment for the re- 
occupation of Astoria was sufiered to pass unimproved. 
Meanwhile, the British trading establishments struck 
their roots so deep in the rich field opened by Mr. Astor 
that soon American sovereignty over the region was 
called in question, and in 18 18 the United States agreed 
with Great Britain to a dual control for ten years of the 
country on the north-west coast of America, westward 
of the Rocky Mountains, and that inhabitants of either 
country might trade there on equal terms, and with 
equal right of navigating all the rivers. At the end of 
the period of ten years (1828) this neutral arrange- 
ment was extended for an additional ten 3'ears; and 
then it became a dispute which pressed hard for settle- 
ment during almost another decade. Finally, in 1846, 
after several vain attempts to come to an agreement, a 
compromise was effected and the boundary line was 
fixed at the parallel of 49° N. The popular cry of the 
day, " Fifty-four forty or fight," would have changed 
the course of empire, if it had been acted upon thirty 
years before, at a time when full possession of this 
whole region might have been taken quietly, as a mat- 
ter of course, and a military post established without 
dispute at Astoria. 



_JL 



CHAPTER XII 

READJUSTMENT AND GROWTH 

IF we look at the series of events we have recorded in 
their relation to this great commercial undertaking, 
We must name it a magnificent enterprise, well con- 
certed, and carried on without regard to difficulties or 
expense. A succession of adverse circumstances and 
cross purposes, however, beset it almost from the out- 
set : the loss of the Tonguin, on her first trading voy- 
age; the variations of the Beaver from the course laid 
down for her, and the consequent detention of Mr. 
Hunt from his post, when his presence there was of 
vital importance to the enterprise; the breaking out of 
the War of 1812 with its accompanying risks and difl&- 
culties; and finally the loss of the supply ship Lark 
added to the tissue of misadventure. 

That Mr. Astor battled resolutely against every 
difficulty, and pursued his course in defiance of every 
loss, has been sufficiently shown. Had he been 
seconded by suitable agents and properly protected by 
the government, the ultimate failure of his plan might 
have been averted. It was his great misfortune that 
his agents were not imbued with his own spirit. Some 
had not capacity sufficient to comprehend the real 
nature and extent of his scheme; most were foreigners 
in birth, feeling, and interest, and had been brought 
up in the service of a rival company. Whatever sym- 

L.cfC. 



lOO The Fur Traders 

pathies they might originally have had with him were 
destroyed by the war. The}-^ looked upon his cause as 
desperate, and considered only how they might regain 
a situation under their former employers. The absence 
of Mr. Hunt, the only real representative of Mr. Astor, 
at the time of the surrender to the Northwest Company, 
completed the series of cross purposes that ruined the 
Pacific Fur Company, and perhaps delayed for half a 
century Mr. Astor' s hope of a commercial empire be- 
yond the mountains, peopled by "free and independent 
Americans, and linked to us by ties of blood and in- 
terest." 

In consequence of the apathy and neglect of the 
American Government, Mr. Astor abandoned all 
thoughts of regaining Astoria, and made no further 
attempt to extend his enterprises beyond the Rocky 
Mountains; and the Northwest Company considered 
themselves the lords of the country. They did not 
long enjoy unmolested the sway which they had at- 
tained ; for a fierce competition ensued between them 
and their old rivals the Hudson Bay Company, which 
was carried on at great cost and sacrifice, and occa- 
sionally with the loss of life. It ended in the ruin of 
most of the partners of the Northwest Company ; and 
the merging of the relics of that establishment, in 1821, 
in the rival association. From that time, the Hudson 
Bay Company enjoyed a monopoly of the Indian trade 
from the coast of the Pacific to the Rocky Mountains, 
and for a considerable extent north and south. They 
removed their emporium from Astoria to Fort Van- 
couver, a strong post on the Columbia River about 
sixty miles from its mouth, whence they furnished their 
interior posts and sent forth their brigades of trappers. 

The War of 1812 in part not only ruined Mr. Astor's 



Readjustment and Growth loi 

enterprise in the Pacific, but it also suspended the 
operations of his Southwest Company, that branch of 
the American Fur Company which he had organised 
in 1811 to succeed the Mackinaw Company. Thus, in 
1 8 15, he found it necessary to begin all over again in 
his effort to become an independent producer of furs; 
he was already perhaps the greatest fur merchant of 
the world. 

After Congress in 18 16 forbade foreign traders to en- 
gage in the fur trade within the borders of the United 
States, Mr. Astor took over the business of the North- 
west Company south of the Canadian boundary, and, 
combining that with the remnant of his Southwest 
Company, merged all in the American Fur Company. 
By 18 1 7 these rearrangements were in working order, 
and, with the island of Mackinac as the emporium of 
the trade, operations were extended not only around 
the Great lyakes, but all through the region of the 
lakes and streams that form the upper waters of the 
Mississippi River. 

Steady growth marked the development of the Ameri- 
can Fur Company during the next few years. Ramsay 
Crooks, who will readily be recalled in connection with 
Mr. Hunt's disasters on the Snake River, became the 
active head of the business, and put tireless energy 
into it. He was practically the general agent of the 
company as well as head of the Western Department 
after it was established at St. Louis. When, in 1834, 
Mr. Astor sold out his interest in the company, Mr. 
Crooks bought the Northern Department and the com- 
pany's name and became president of the American 
Fur Company. 

Mr. Crooks's efforts at Mackinac were ably seconded 
by Robert Stuart, another Astorian, who carried the 



I02 The Fur Traders 

despatches overland to Mr. Astor, setting out in July, 
1812/ after John Reed had met with disaster while on 
the same mission. Crooks and M'Lellan returned 
with him, sharing the perils of that protracted ten 
months' journey. 

On the other hand, the efforts of the American Fur 
Company to establish itself in the Missouri trade lead 
to no permanent results, chiefly for the reason that that 
trade was in the hands of the St. Ivouis traders; and 
they refused to share it with any outsiders, least of all 
with a rival who was powerful enough possibly to 
monopolise it all. They showed their opposition from 
the beginning of the Pacific Fur Company. Mr. 
Hunt's troubles with the Missouri Fur Company and 
especially with its most activ^e partner and partisan, Mr. 
Manuel Lisa, have already been mentioned; and from 
that time forth, for more than ten years, they main- 
tained a narrow, losing hostility, refusing to admit Mr. 
Astor as a partner, and blocked his efforts to secure 
an opening through any of the leading establishments 
engaged in the fur trade. 

In 1823 the American Fur Company established itself 
at St. Louis quite independently of the old houses, and 
assigned to this, its Western Department, the trade of 
the Missouri and the lower posts on the Mississippi. 
A year later a temporary alliance was made with Stone, 
Bostwick, and Company to act as agents and manage 
this department; and finally, in 1827, the long desired 
connection was made with Bernard Pratte and Com- 
pany, who comprised the strongest traders in St. Louis, 
and who managed the department with notable ability 
during the great activities that marked the fur trade 
for the next twenty years. 

' For details of this journey see Astoria, chapters xliv.-li. 



Readjustment and Growth 103 

Later in that same year, another fortunate combina- 
tion was made by the American Fur Company — that 
with the Columbia Fur Company. This company had 
been formed by some of the best men in the famous 
Northwest Company, who had been crowded out of 
their places when that company succumbed to the 
fierce competition with the Hudson Bay Company and 
in 182 1 fell into its hands. They quickly built up 
along the Great Lakes and on the rivers to the west of 
them an able opposition to the American Company. 
In fact, so successful were they that they were made 
partners of the American Fur Company and conducted 
thereafter the affairs of the upper Missouri, of course, 
withdrawing from their separate operations around the 
Great Lakes. This new department was known as the 
Upper Missouri Outfit, " U. M. O.," and, beginning 
at Sioux City, Iowa, was gradually extended to the 
headwaters of the river. 

Under the able trader, Kenneth M'Kenzie, recently 
of the Columbia Fur Company, a definite advance from 
the Mandan country toward the sources of the Missouri 
River was begun in 1828. In that year Fort Union 
(at first called Floyd) was built at the mouth of the 
Yellowstone River. Through an old trapper named 
Berger, M'Kenzie succeeded in opening negotiations 
with the hostile and ever treacherous Blackfeet In- 
dians, and as a result caused Fort Piegan to be built at 
the junction of the Marias with the Missouri Riv^er. 
As this post was found burned, when the resident agent 
returned in the fall of 1832 with his new trading outfit 
Fort M'Kenzie was built six miles up the Marias River. 
This stronghold secured there for the company a per- 
manent foothold among the Blackfeet. 

Also in 1832, M'Kenzie built Fort Cass at the point 



I04 The Fur Traders 

where the Big Horn empties into the Yellowstone, thus 
tapping the Crow country, and completing the three 
river bases from which the company traded as long as 
it existed: Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellow- 
stone, Fort M'Kenzie on the Marias, and Fort Cass on 
the Big Horn. Into the mountain trade the company 
never entered so completely or profitably ; for, although 
that had already become thoroughly developed, it called 
for an organisation more mobile and leaders more active 
and eager than the great company had yet produced. 

The difficulties experienced in 1808 by Mr. Andrew 
Henry of the Missouri Company, the first American to 
trap upon the headwaters of the Columbia, and the 
frightful hardships of Wilson P. Hunt, Ramsay Crooks, 
Robert Stuart, and other intrepid Astorians, in their 
ill-fated expeditions across the mountains, seemed for a 
time to check all further enterprise in that direction. 
The American traders contented themselves with fol- 
lowing up the streams on the Atlantic side of the 
mountains, but forbore to attempt those great, snow- 
crowned sierras. 

One of the first to revive the expeditions to the 
mountains was General Ashley,' of Missouri, a man 

' William Henry Ashley (1778-1838), the most noted and suc- 
cessful of the St. Louis traders, entered the mountain trade in 
partnership with Andrew Henry, in 1822, visiting the Yellow- 
stone in that year ; in the next, he was defeated in the affair at 
the Aricara village ; in 1824 he was present at the rendezvous in 
Green River Valley, and, though badly shipwrecked later, he 
continued his explorations to the south of the Great Salt Lake, 
and returned thence in 1S25 with 130 packs of beaver skins — a 
phenomenal cargo for those days. After one more visit to the 
mountains, he sold his business in 1826 to Smith, Jackson, and 
Sublette, and devoted his energies to political life, serving in 
Congress from 1831-1837. 



Readjustment and Growth 105 

whose courage and achievements in the prosecution of 
his enterprises rendered him famous in the Far West. 
In conjunction with Mr. Henry, already mentioned/ 
he established a post on the Yellowstone River in 1822, 
and in 1823 pushed a band of trappers across the mount- 
ains to the banks of the Green River, This attempt 
was followed up by himself and others until a com- 
plete system of trapping in the mountains was devised, 
the most interesting feature of which was the rendez- 
vous in place of the fixed trading-posts. In other 
words, some place of general meeting was appointed 
where the various parties could assemble each year 
with the product of their work and renew their equip- 
ment and get supplies. 

In this wild and warlike school a number of leaders 
sprang up, originally in the employ, subsequently 
partners, of Ashley. The association commenced by 
General Ashley underwent various modifications until 
he was succeeded by Captain William Sublette, a 
native of Kentucky, and of game descent; his maternal 
grandfather. Colonel Wheatley, a companion of Boone, 
having been one of the pioneers of the West, celebrated 
in Indian warfare, and killed in one of the contests of 
the " Bloody Ground," In 1830, the association took 
the name of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, of 
which Captain Sublette and Robert Campbell were 
prominent members. 

> See p. 36. 



CHAPTER XIII 

pie^rre's hole 

IT was in the midst of this renewal of old interests, 
and of the enthusiasm of new ones, that Captain 
Bonneville of the United States Army came to New 
York to secure support for a trading expedition which 
he wished to lead through unexplored regions of the 
Rocky Mountains. Having obtained leave of absence 
from the War Department, on his offering to collect for 
it information concerning the country and the wild 
tribes he might visit, he was equally successful in in- 
teresting in the enterprise several merchants of the 
metropolis, who raised sufficient funds to carry the 
scheme into effect. 

Thus backed and provided. Captain Bonneville was 
able to shape his day-dream into a practical reality and 
gratify the ardent desire of his heart. Enlisting a 
party of one hundred and ten men, most of whom had 
been in the Indian country, and some of whom were 
experienced hunters and trappers, he took his departure 
from Fort Osage, on the Missouri, on the ist of May, 
1832. 

It is not easy to do justice to the exulting feelings of 
the worthy Captain at finding himself at the head of a 
stout band of hunters, trappers, and woodmen, fairly 
launched on the broad prairies, with his face to the 
boundless West. The tamest inhabitant of cities, the 

106 



Pierre's Hole 107 

veriest spoiled child of civilisation, feels his heart dilate 
and his pulse beat high on finding himself on horse- 
back in the glorious wilderness; what then must be the 
excitement of one whose imagination had been stimu- 
lated by a residence on the frontier, and to whom the 
wilderness was a region of romance ! 

On the 6th of May the travellers passed the last 
border habitation, and bade a long farewell to the ease 
and security of civilisation; and their buoyant and 
clamorous spirits gradually subsided as they entered 
upon the difiSculties of the march. On the 24th of 
May, as the caravan was slowly journeying up the 
banks of the Nebraska, the hunters came galloping 
back, giving the alarm that a large war-party of Crow 
Indians were just above, on the river. The Captain 
knew these savages to be the most roving, warlike, 
crafty, and predatory tribes of the mountains; horse- 
stealers of the first order, and easily provoked to acts 
of violence. Orders were accordingly given to prepare 
for action, and every one promptly took the post that 
had been assigned him. 

In a little while the Crow warriors emerged from 
among the bluffs, fine martial-looking fellows, painted 
and arrayed for war, and mounted on horses decked 
out with all kinds of wild trappings. They came gal- 
loping forward in a body, as if about to make a furious 
charge, but, when close at hand, opened to the right 
and left, and wheeled in wide circles round the travel- 
lers, whooping and yelling like maniacs. 

This done, their mock fury sank into a calm, and 
the chief approached the Captain, who had remained 
warily drawn up, and extended to him the hand of 
friendship. The pipe of peace was smoked, and all was 
good fellowship. 



io8 The Fur Traders 

The Crows were in pursuit of a band of Cheyennes, 
and a few days previously had discovered the party of 
Captain Bonneville. They had dogged it for a time in 
secret, astonished at the long train of waggons and 
oxen, and especially struck with the sight of a cow and 
calf quietly following the caravan, supposing them to 
be some kind of tame bufiFalo. "Now that we have 
met you," said their chief to Captain Bonneville, "and 
have seen these marvels with our own eyes, our hearts 
are glad." In fact, nothing could exceed the curiosity 
evinced by these people as to the objects before them. 
Waggons had never been seen by them before; but the 
calf was the peculiar object of their admiration. They 
watched it with intense interest as it licked the hands 
accustomed to feed it, and were struck with the mild 
expression of its countenance and its perfect docility, 
feeling sure that it was the " great medicine " of the 
white party. 

During the day and the night that the Crows were 
encamped in company with the travellers their conduct 
was friendly in the extreme. In fact, not until after 
separation on the following morning did the Captain 
and his men ascertain that the Crows had contrived to 
empty the pockets of their white brothers, to filch the 
buttons from their coats, and, above all, to make free 
with their hunting knives. The Captain was well 
pleased with the opportunity to gain some knowledge 
of the "unsophisticated sons of nature," and had to be 
content with this one experience until he reached his 
chosen ground in the Rockies. 

His route was the one already in common use by the 
mountain traders and was later to be known as the Ore- 
gon Trail. It lead up the valleys of the Platte and the 
Sweetwater rivers, through South Pass, and to the 



Pierre's Hole 109 

Green River, where he arrived about noon on the 27th 
of July. On the day before, about eleven o'clock in the 
morning, a great cloud of dust appeared in the rear on 
the trail of the party. A scouting party soon returned 
making signals that all was well, and were quickly fol- 
lowed by a band of sixty mounted trappers belonging 
to the American Fur Company, who were headed by 
a Mr. Fontenelle, an experienced "partisan," and 
were bound for the annual rendezvous at Pierre's Hole. 

As the plain ahead of them was destitute of grass and 
water, and as the Green River was still some distance 
away, both parties were compelled to push forward 
with all possible speed, reaching the river next day 
quite knocked out by the exertion. During their brief 
but social encampment together, Fontenelle had man- 
aged to win over a number of Delaware Indians whom 
the Captain had brought with him, and on whose serv- 
ices as hunters he had counted securely. This was 
his first taste of the boasted strategy of the fur traders. 
That he might, in some measure, however, be even 
with his competitor, he despatched two scouts to look 
out for the band of free trappers who were to meet 
Fontenelle in this neighbourhood, and to endeavour to 
bring them to his camp. 

As it would be necessary to remain some time in this 
neighbourhood. Captain Bonneville proceeded to fortify 
his camp with breastworks of logs and pickets, precau- 
tions that were peculiarly necessary, from the bands of 
Blackfeet Indians which were roving about the neigh- 
bourhood. They were a treacherous race, and had 
cherished a lurking hostility to the whites ever since 
one of their tribe was killed by Mr. L,ewis, the associate 
of Clark in his exploring expedition across the Rocky 
Mountains. 



I lo The Fur Traders 

IvCaving Captain Bonneville and his band within 
their fortified camp in the Green River Valley, we 
shall step back and accompany a party of the Rocky 
Mountain Fur Company in its progress, with supplies 
from St. Louis, to the annual rendezvous, at Pierre's 
Hole. This party consisted of sixty men, well mounted 
and conducting a line of pack-horses. They were com- 
manded by Captain William Sublette, a partner in the 
company, and by Mr. Robert Campbell, one of the 
pioneers of the trade beyond the mountain, who had 
commanded trapping parties there in times of the 
greatest peril. 

As these worthy compeers were on their route to the 
frontier, they fell in with another expedition, likewise 
on its way to the mountains. This was a party of New 
Englanders who were commanded by Mr. Nathaniel J. 
Wyeth, of Boston. This gentleman had conceived an 
idea that a profitable fishery for salmon might be 
established on the Columbia River, and connected with 
the fur trade. He had, accordingly, invested his capi- 
tal in goods for the Indian trade, and had enlisted a 
number of eastern men who unluckily had never been 
in the Far West, and knew nothing of the wilderness. 

With all their aptitude at expedient and resource, 
Wyeth and his men felt themselves completely at a loss 
when they reached the frontier and found that the 
wilderness required a kind of experience in which they 
were totally deficient. Not one of the party, excepting 
the leader, had ever seen an Indian or handled a rifle; 
they were without guide or interpreter, and were totally 
unacquainted with woodcraft and the modes of mak- 
ing their way among savage hordes, and of subsisting 
themselves during long marches over wild mountains 
and barren plains. 



Pierre's Hole 1 1 1 

In this predicament Captain Sublette found them at 
the little frontier town of Independence, in Missouri, 
and took them in tow. His men gave their Yankee 
comrades some lessons in hunting and some insight 
into the art and mystery of dealing with the Indians, 
and they all arrived without accident at the upper 
branches of the Platte River. 

In the course of their march, Mr. Fitzpatrick, the 
partner of the company who was resident at that time 
beyond the mountains, came down from the rendezvous 
at Pierre's Hole to meet them and hurry them forward. 
He travelled in company with them until they reached 
the Sweetwater; then, taking a couple of horses, one 
for the saddle and the other as a pack-horse, he started 
back to make arrangements for their arrival, that he 
might begin his hunting campaign before the rival 
company. 

Fitzpatrick, as he was pursuing his lonely course up 
the Green River Valley, descried several horsemen at 
a distance, and came to a halt to reconnoitre. He sup- 
posed them to be some detachment from the rendezvous, 
or a party of friendly Indians. They perceived him, 
and setting up the war-whoop, dashed forward at full 
speed : he saw at once his mistake and his peril — they 
were Blackfeet. Springing upon his fleetest horse, and 
abandoning the other to the enemy, he made for the 
mountains, and succeeded in escaping up one of the 
most dangerous defiles. For several days he remained 
lurking among rocks and precipices, and almost fam- 
ished, having but one remaining charge in his rifle, 
which he kept for self-defence. 

In the meantime, Sublette and Campbell, with their 
fellow-traveller, Wyeth, had pursued their march un- 
molested, and arrived in the Green River Valley, 



112 The Fur Traders 

totally unconscious that there was any lurking enemy 
at hand. They had encamped one night on the banks 
of a small stream, when about midnight a band of 
Indians burst upon their camp, with horrible yells and 
whoops and a discharge of guns and arrows. The 
camp was instantly in arms; but the Indians retreated 
with yells of exultation, carrying ofif several of the 
horses, under cover of the night. 

They continued their march the next morning, keep- 
ing scouts ahead and upon their flanks, and arrived 
without further molestation at Pierre's Hole. The 
first inquiry of Captain Sublette, on reaching the ren- 
dezvous, was for Fitzpatrick. He had not arrived, nor 
had any intelligence been received concerning him. 
Great uneasiness was now entertained lest he should 
have fallen into the hands of the Blackfeet who had 
made the midnight attack upon the camp. It was a 
matter of general joy, therefore, when he made his 
appearance. He had lurked for several days among 
the mountains ; at length he escaped the vigilance of 
his enemies in the night, and was so fortunate as to meet 
two Iroquois hunters, who, being on horseback, con- 
veyed him without further difficulty to the rendezvous. 

In the valley called Pierre's Hole was congregated 
the motley populace connected with the fur trade. 
Here the two rival companies had their encampments, 
with their retainers of all kinds. Here, also, the sav- 
age tribes connected with the trade, the Nez Perces and 
Flatheads, had pitched their lodges beside the streams, 
and with their squaws awaited the distribution of goods 
and finery. There was, moreover, a band of fifteen 
free trappers, commanded by a gallant leader from 
Arkansas, named Sinclair, who held their encampment 
a little apart from the rest. 




HEROISM OF A WOMAN OF THE NEZ PERCES 
Engraved from a drawing by F. S. Church 



Pierre's Hole 113 

The arrival of Captain Sublette with supplies put the 
Rocky Mountain Fur Company in full activity. The 
wares and merchandise were quickly opened, and as 
quickly disposed of to trappers and Indians; the usual 
excitement and revelry took place, after which all 
hands began to disperse to their several destinations. 

On the 17th of July, a small brigade of fourteen 
trappers, led by Milton Sublette, brother of the cap- 
tain, set out toward the south-west, accompanied by 
Sinclair and his fifteen free trappers; Wyeth, also, and 
his New England band of beaver hunters and salmon 
fishers, now dwindled down to eleven, took this oppor- 
tunity to prosecute their cruise in the wilderness with 
such experienced pilots. On the second morning, just 
as they were raising their camp, they observed a long 
line of people pouring down a defile of the mountains. 
They at first supposed them to be Fontenelle and his 
party, whose arrival had been daily expected. Wyeth, 
however, soon perceived they were Indians in two par- 
ties, forming, in the whole, about one hundred and 
fifty persons, men, women, and children. They had 
perceived the trappers before they were themselves 
discovered, and came down yelling and whooping into 
the plain. 

One of the tr%)pers of Sublette's brigade, a half- 
breed, named Antoine Godin, now mounted his horse 
and rode forth as if to hold a conference. He was the 
son of an Iroquois hunter who had been cruelly mur- 
dered by members of this same tribe of Blackfeet at a 
small stream below the mountains, which still bears 
his name. In company with Antoine rode forth a 
Flathead Indian, whose once powerful tribe had been 
completely broken down in their wars with the Black- 
feet. Both of them, therefore, cherished the most 



114 "^^^ ^^^ Traders 

vengeful hostility against these marauders of the 
mountains. The Blackfeet came to a halt. One of 
the chiefs advanced singly and unarmed, bearing the 
pipe of peace; but Antoine and the Flathead were pre- 
disposed to hostility, and pretended to consider it a 
treacherous movement. 

They met the Blackfeet chief half-way, who extended 
his hand in friendship. Antoine grasped it. At the 
same time the Flathead levelled his piece and brought 
the Blackfoot to the ground. Antoine snatched off his 
scarlet blanket, which was richly ornamented, and 
galloped off with it as a trophy to the camp, the bullets 
of the enemy whistling after him. The Indians im- 
mediately threw themselves into the edge of a swamp, 
among willows and cotton-wood trees, interwoven with 
vines. Here they began to fortify themselves; the 
women digging a trench and throwing up a breast- 
work of logs and branches, deep hid in the bosom of 
the wood, while the warriors skirmished at the edge to 
keep the trappers at bay. 

The latter took their station in a ravine in front, 
whence they kept up a scattering fire. In the mean- 
time, an express had been sent off to the rendezvous 
for reinforcements. Captain Sublette and his associ- 
ate, Campbell, were at their camp when the express 
came galloping across the plain, waving his cap, and 
giving the alarm: "Blackfeet! Blackfeet! a fight in 
the upper part of the valley! — to arms! to arms! " 

The alarm was passed from camp to camp. It was a 
common cause. Every one turned out with horse and 
rifle. The Nez Perces and Flatheads joined. As fast 
as horsemen could arm and mount they galloped off; 
the valley was soon alive with white men and red men 
scouring at full speed. 



Pierre's Hole 115 

When Captain Sublette arrived, he urged to pene- 
trate the swamp and storm the fort, but all hung back 
in awe of the dismal horrors of the place and the dan- 
ger of attacking such desperadoes in their savage den. 
The very Indian allies, though accustomed to bush- 
fighting, regarded it as almost impenetrable and full 
of frightful danger. Sublette was not to be turned 
from his purpose, but grasped his rifle and pushed into 
the thickets, followed by Campbell. Sinclair, excited 
by the gallant example of the two friends, pressed 
forward to share their dangers. 

The swamp was all overgrown with woods and 
thickets, so closely matted and entangled that it was 
impossible to see ten paces ahead. The three associates 
in peril had to crawl along, one after another, making 
their way with caution, lest they should attract the eye 
of some lurking marksman. They took the lead by 
turns, until they had reached a more open part of the 
wood, and had glimpses of the rude fortress from be- 
tween the trees. As Sinclair, who was in the advance, 
was putting some branches aside, he was shot through 
the body, and was conveyed out of the swamp by his 
men. 

Sublette now took the advance. While he was re- 
loading after shooting an Indian, a ball struck him in 
the shoulder, and almost wheeled him round. The 
next moment he was so faint that he could not stand, 
and he too was carried out of the thicket. 

A brisk fire was now opened on the fort. Unluckily, 
the trappers and their allies had got scattered, so that 
Wyeth and a number of Nez Perces approached the 
fort on the north-west side, while others did the same 
on the opposite quarter. A cross-fire thus took place, 
which occasionally did mischief to friends as well a§ 



ii6 The Fur Traders 

foes. The Blackfeet, though completely overmatched, 
kept doggedly in their fort, making no offer of surren- 
der. But during one of the pauses of the battle, the 
voice of the Blackfeet chief was heard. 

" So long," said he, "as we had powder and ball, 
we fought you in the open field: when those were 
spent, we retreated here to die with our women and 
children. You may burn us in our fort; but stay by 
our ashes and you who are so hungry for fighting will 
soon have enough. There are four hundred lodges of 
our brethren at hand. They will soon be here — their 
arms are strong — their hearts are big — they will avenge 
us!" 

By the time this speech was rendered into English, 
the chief was made to say that four hundred lodges of 
his tribe were attacking the encampment at the other 
end of the valley. Every one now was for hurrying to 
the defence of the rendezvous. A party was left to 
keep watch upon the fort ; the rest galloped off to the 
camp. By morning, their companions returned from 
the rendezvous, with the report that all was safe. As 
the day opened, they ventured within the swamp and 
approached the fort. All was silent. They advanced 
up to it without opposition. They entered: it had 
been abandoned in the night, and the Blackfeet had 
effected their retreat, carrying off their wounded on 
litters. They had lost twenty-six warriors in this 
battle. Thirty-two horses were likewise found killed ; 
among them were some of those recently carried off 
from Sublette's party in the night. Five white men 
and one half-breed were killed, and several wounded. 
Seven of the Nez Perces were also killed and six 
wounded. 

A striking circumstance is related as having occurred 



Pierre's Hole 117 

the morning after the battle. As some of the trappers 
and their Indian allies were approaching the fort 
through the woods, they beheld an Indian woman, of 
noble form and features, leaning against a tree. Their 
surprise at her lingering here alone, to fall into the 
hands of her enemies, was dispelled when they saw the 
corpse of a warrior at her feet. Kither she was so lost 
in grief as not to perceive their approach, or a proud 
spirit kept her silent and motionless. The Indians set 
up a yell on discovering her, and before the trappers 
could interfere, her mangled body fell upon the corpse 
which she had refused to abandon. 

After the battle, the brigade of Milton Sublette, to- 
gether with the free trappers and Wyeth's New Eng- 
land band, remained some days at the rendezvous, to 
see if the main bod}^ of Blackfeet intended to make an 
attack ; nothing of the kind occurring, they proceeded 
on their route towards the south-west. 

Captain Sublette, having distributed his supplies, 
had intended to set off on his return to St. Louis, 
taking with him the peltries collected from the trappers 
and Indians. His wound, however, obliged him to 
postpone his departure. Several who were to have 
accompanied him, impatient of the delay, determined 
to make their own way back through the mountains. 
It was on the very next day after they set out that this 
party of seven was descending a hill in Jackson's Hole 
near the Three Tetons when they were attacked by a 
band of Blackfeet. Of the seven companions Mr. More 
of Boston and Mr. Foy of Mississippi were killed, and 
Mr. Stephens was wounded. He and the rest, includ- 
ing two grandsons of Daniel Boone, returned to the 
camp at the rendezvous, Stephens dying five days later. 
Captain Sublette was soon able to travel, and, leading 



ii8 The Fur Traders 

his company by another route out of the way of the 
Blackfeet, he brought them and their valuable cargo 
safely within the frontier. 

Another direct result of the battle of Pierre's Hole 
was the unsettled account between the Blackfeet and 
Antoine Godin, who had directly caused the fight there. 
It happened some two years later that a party of In- 
dians of this race with a half-breed leader named Bird 
halted by the Snake River opposite a fur- trading post 
which for the time was Godin' s headquarters. In re- 
sponse to an invitation from Bird, Godin without sus- 
picion crossed the stream to buy the furs of the party, 
but was shot from behind while he sat smoking with 
the leaders, his scalp being ripped off before he was 
dead. This was the end of the battle of Pierre's Hole. 



CHAPTER XIV 

THE NEZ PERCYS 

THE Blackfeet warriors, when they eflFected their 
midnight retreat from their wild fastness in 
Pierre's Hole, fell back into the valley of the Green 
River, where they joined the main body of their band. 
The whole force amounted to several hundred fighting 
men, gloomy and exasperated by their late disaster. 
They had with them their wives and children, which 
incapacitated them for any bold and extensive enter- 
prise of a warlike nature; but when, in the course of 
their wanderings, they came in sight of the encamp- 
ment of Fontenelle, who had moved some distance up 
Green River Valley in search of the free trappers, they 
put up tremendous war-cries and advanced fiercely as 
if to attack it. Second thoughts caused them to moder- 
ate their fury. They recollected the severe lesson just 
received, and could not but remark the strength of 
Fontenelle' s position, which had been chosen with 
great judgment. 

A formal talk ensued. The Blackfeet said nothing 
of the late battle, of which Fontenelle had as yet re- 
ceived no accounts; the latter, however, knew the 
hostile and perfidious nature of these savages, and took 
care to inform them of the encampment of Captain 
Bonneville, that they might know there were more 
white men in the neighbourhood. They passed some 

119 



I20 The Fur Traders 

little time at the camp; saw, no doubt, that such an 
enemy was not to be easily surprised; and then de- 
parted, to report all they had seen to their comrades. 

Meantime the two scouts which Captain Bonneville 
had sent out to seek for the band of free trappers ex- 
pected by Fontenelle, and to invite them to his camp, 
had been successful in their search, and on the 12th of 
August those worthies made their appearance. 

Captain Bonneville, who was delighted with the 
game look of these cavaliers of the mountains, wel- 
comed them heartily to his camp, and ordered a free 
allowance of grog to regale them, which soon put them 
in the most braggart spirits. They pronounced the 
Captain the finest fellow in the world, and his men all 
jovial lads, and swore they would pass the day with 
them. They did so; and a day it was, of boast, 
swagger, and rodomontade. The prime bullies and 
braves among the free trappers had each his circle of 
novices from among the Captain's band; mere green- 
horns, men unused to Indian life. These he would 
astonish and delight by the hour with prodigious tales 
of his doings among the Indians; and of the wonders 
he had seen, and the wonders he had performed among 
the mountains. 

In the evening the free trappers drew oflF; for they 
come and go when and where they please; provide 
their own horses, arms, and other equipments; trap 
and trade on their own account, and dispose of their 
skins and peltries to the highest bidder; though 
sometimes, in a dangerous hunting-ground, they at- 
tach themselves to the camp of some trader for protec- 
tion, where they come under such restrictions as may 
be necessary for the common safety. In the present 
instance they were delighted with their new acquaint- 



The Nez Perces 121 

ances, promising to return the following day. Day- 
after day their visits were repeated; treat after treat 
succeeded, until all was confusion and uproar. The 
free trappers were no longer suffered to have all the 
swagger to themselves. The camp bullies and prime 
trappers of the party began to ruffle up, and to brag, 
in turn, of their perils and achievements. Each now 
tried to out-boast and out-talk the other; a quarrel 
ensued as a matter of course, and a general fight, ac- 
cording to frontier usage. The two factions drew out 
their forces for a pitched battle. They fell to work and 
belaboured each other with might and main; kicks 
and cuffs and dry blows were as well bestowed as they 
were well merited, until, having fought to their hearts' 
content, and been drubbed into a familiar acquaintance 
with each other's prowess and good qualities, they 
ended the fight by becoming firm friends. 

Captain Bonneville, learning from his free trapper 
friends that the upper part of the Salmon River was a 
much better wintering ground than his present post on 
the Green, now made his arrangements for the autumn 
and the winter. The nature of the country through 
which he was about to travel rendered it impossible to 
proceed with waggons. He had more goods and sup- 
plies of various kinds, also, than were required for 
present purposes, or than could be conveniently trans- 
ported on horseback; aided, therefore, by a few confi- 
dential men, he made caches when all the rest of the 
camp were asleep, and in these deposited the super- 
fluous effects, together with the waggons. 

Many of the horses were still so weak and lame as 
to be unfit for a long scramble through the mountains. 
These were collected into one cavalcade, and given in 
charge to an experienced trapper of the name of 



122 The Fur Traders 

Matthieu, who was to proceed westward, with a brigade 
of trappers, to Bear River, and later rejoin the main body 
at the proposed winter quarters on the Salmon River. 

Captain Bonneville now broke up his camp (August 
2 2d) and, soon passing beyond the sources of the 
Green, he pursued a diflBcult course through the mount- 
ains. At length, on the 19th of September, he reached 
the upper waters of Salmon River, and on the next 
morning, resuming his march at an early hour, he had 
not gone far when the hunters, who were beating up 
the country in the advance, came galloping back, 
making signals to encamp, and crying, "Indians! 
Indians!" 

Captain Bonneville immediately struck into a skirt 
of wood and prepared for action, for the savages were 
already in sight trooping over the hills in great num- 
bers. One of them left the main body and came for- 
ward singly, making signals of peace. He announced 
them as a band of Nez Perces (pronounced by the 
trappers Neper cy), friendly to the whites, whereupon 
an invitation was returned by Captain Bonneville for 
them to come and encamp with him. Having arranged 
themselves in martial style, the chiefs leading, the 
braves following in a long line, painted and decorated, 
and topped off with fluttering plumes, they advanced, 
shouting and singing, firing off their fusees, and clash- 
ing their shields. 

The Nez Perces were on a hunting expedition, having 
no provisions left but a few dried salmon ; yet finding 
the white men equally in want, they generously offered 
to share even this meagre pittance, and frequently re- 
peated the offer, with an earnestness that left no doubt 
of their sincerity. For the two days that the parties 
remained in company, the most amicable intercourse 



The Nez Perces 123 

prevailed, and they parted the best of friends. Captain 
Bonneville detached a few men, under Mr. Cerre, an 
able leader, to accompany the Nez Perces on their 
hunting expedition, and to trade with them for meat 
for the winter's supply. After this, he proceeded 
down the river to establish his winter quarters, coming 
to a halt for that purpose on the 26th of September, five 
miles below the mouth of the Lemhi. 

All hands now set to work to prepare a winter can- 
tonment. A temporary fortification was thrown up for 
the protection of the party; a secure and comfortable 
pen was made, into which the horses could be driven 
at night ; and huts were built for the reception of the 
merchandise. 

This done. Captain Bonneville made a distribution 
of his forces; twenty men were to remain with him in 
garrison to protect the property ; the rest were organised 
into three brigades, and sent off in different directions, 
to subsist themselves by hunting the buffalo, until the 
snow should become too deep. 

Indeed, it would have been impossible to provide for 
the whole party in this neighbourhood. It was at the 
extreme western limit of the buffalo range, and these 
animals had recently been completely hunted out of 
the neighbourhood by the Nez Perces, so that, although 
the hunters of the garrison were continually on the 
alert, ranging the country round, they brought in 
scarce game sufficient to keep famine from the door. 

The necessities of the camp at length became so 
urgent that Captain Bonneville determined to despatch 
a party to the Horse Prairie, a plain to the north of his 
cantonment, to procure a supply of provisions. When 
the men were about to depart, he proposed to the Nez 
Perc6s that some of them should join the hunting 



124 The Fur Traders 

party. To his surprise, they promptly declined, for it 
was a sacred day with them, and the Great Spirit 
would be angry should they devote it to hunting. 
They offered, however, to accompany the party if it 
would wait until the following day; but this the pinch- 
ing demands of hunger would not permit, and the 
detachment proceeded. 

A few days afterwards, four of them signified to 
Captain Bonneville that they were about to hunt. 
"What!" exclaimed he, "without guns or arrows; 
and with only one old spear ? What do you expect to 
kill?" They smiled among themselves, but made no 
answer. Preparatory to the chase, they performed 
some religious rites, and offered up to the Great Spirit 
a few short prayers for safety and success ; then, hav- 
ing received the blessings of their wives, they leaped 
upon their horses and departed, leaving the whole 
party of Christian spectators amazed and rebuked by 
this lesson of faith and dependence on a supreme and 
benevolent Being. "Accustomed," adds Captain 
Bonneville, "as I had heretofore been to find the 
wretched Indian revelling in blood, and stained by 
every vice which can degrade human nature, I could 
scarcely realise the scene which I had witnessed." 

When, in the course of four or five days, they re- 
turned, laden with meat. Captain Bonneville was 
curious to know how they had attained such success 
with such scanty means. They gave him to under- 
stand that they had chased the herds of buffalo at full 
speed, until they tired them down, when they easily 
despatched them with the spear, and made use of the 
same weapon to flay the carcasses. The poor savages 
were as charitable as they had been pious, and gener- 
ously shared with the party the spoils of their hunting; 
giving them food enough to last for several days. 



The Nez Perces 125 

A further and more intimate intercourse with this 
tribe gave Captain Bonneville still greater cause to 
admire their strong devotional feeling, "Simply to 
call these people religious," says he, "would convey 
but a faint idea of the deep hue of piety and devotion 
which pervades their whole conduct. Their honesty is 
immaculate, and their purity of purpose and their 
observance of the rites of their religion are most uni- 
form and remarkable. They are, certainly, more like 
a nation of saints than a horde of savages. ' ' 

For the greater part of the month of November Cap- 
tain Bonneville remained in his temporary post on 
Salmon River. He was now in the full enjoyment of 
his wishes; leading a hunter's life in the heart of the 
wilderness, with all its wild populace around him. Be- 
side his own people, motley in character and costume, 
— Creole, Kentuckian, Indian, half-breed, hired trap- 
per, and free trapper, — he was surrounded by encamp- 
ments of Nez Perces and Flatheads, with their droves 
of horses covering the hills and plains. It was, he 
declared, a wild and bustling scene. The hunting par- 
ties of white men and red men, continually sallying 
forth and returning; the groups at the various encamp- 
ments, some cooking, some working, some amusing 
themselves at different games; the neighing of horses, 
the braying of asses, the resounding strokes of the axe, 
the sharp report of the rifle, the whoop, the halloo, 
and the frequent burst of laughter in the midst of a 
region suddenly roused from perfect silence and lone- 
liness by this transient hunter's sojourn, all these cir- 
cumstances realised, he said, the idea of a " populous 
solitude. ' ' 

A familiar intercourse of some standing with the 
Pierced-nose and Flathead Indians had now convinced 



126 The Fur Traders 

Captain Bonneville of their amicable and inoflfen- 
sive character; he began to take a strong interest in 
them, and conceived the idea of becoming a pacificator, 
and healing the deadly feud between them and the 
Blackfeet, in which they were so deplorably the sujffer- 
ers. He proposed the matter to some of the leaders, 
and urged that they should meet the Blackfeet chiefs 
in a grand pacific conference, offering to send two of 
his men to the enemy's camp with pipe, tobacco, and 
flag of truce, to negotiate the proposed meeting. 

The Nez Perces and Flathead sages, upon this, held 
a council of war of two days' duration, in which there 
was abundance of hard smoking and long talking, and 
both eloquence and tobacco were nearly exhausted. 
At length they came to a decision to reject the worthy 
Captain's proposition, and upon pretty substantial 
grounds, as the reader may judge. 

" War," said the chiefs, " is a bloody business, and 
full of evil ; but it keeps the eyes of the chiefs always 
open, and makes the limbs of the young men strong 
and supple. In war, every one is on the alert. If we 
see a trail, we know it must be an enemy; if the 
Blackfeet come to us, we know it is for war, and we 
are ready. Peace, on the other hand, sounds no alarm ; 
the eyes of the chiefs are closed in sleep, and the young 
men are sleek and lazy. The horses stray into the 
mountains; the women and their little babes go about 
alone. But the heart of a Blackfoot is a lie and his 
tongue is a trap. If he says peace, it is to deceive : he 
comes to us as a brother; he smokes his pipe with us; 
but when he sees us weak, and off our guard, he will 
slay and steal. We will have no such peace ; let there 
be war ! ' ' 

With this reasoning. Captain Bonneville was fain to 



The Nez Perces 127 

acquiesce; but, since the sagacious Flatheads and their 
allies were content to remain in a state of warfare, he 
wished them, at least, to exercise the boasted vigilance 
which war was to produce, and to keep their eyes open. 
All these counsels were lost upon his easy and sim- 
ple-minded hearers. A careless indifference reigned 
throughout their encampments, and their horses were 
permitted to range the hills at night in perfect free- 
dom. In a single night a sweep was made through 
the neighbouring pastures by the Blackfeet and 
eighty-six of the finest horses carried off. A whip and 
a rope were left in a conspicuous situation by the rob- 
bers, as a taunt to the simpletons they had unhorsed. 

Long before sunrise, the news of this calamity spread 
like wildfire through the different encampments. Cap- 
tain Bonneville, whose own horses remained safe at 
their pickets, watched in momentary expectation of an 
outbreak of warriors, Pierced-nose and Flathead, in 
furious pursuit of the marauders; but no such thing — 
they contented themselves with searching diligently 
over hill and dale, to glean up such horses as had 
escaped the hands of the marauders, and then resigned 
themselves to their loss with the most exemplary 
quiescence. 

If the meekness and long-suffering of the Pierced- 
noses grieved the spirit of Captain Bonneville, there 
was another individual in the camp to whom they were 
still more annoying. This was a Blackfeet renegado, 
named Kosato, a fiery, hot-blooded youth, who, with 
a beautiful girl of the same tribe, had taken refuge 
among the Nez Perces. Though adopted into the 
tribe, he still retained the warlike spirit of his race, 
and loathed the peaceful, inoffensive habits of those 
around him. 



128 The Fur Traders 

The character and conduct of this man attracted the 
attention of Captain Bonneville, and he was anxious 
to hear the reason why he had deserted his tribe, and 
why he looked back upon them with such deadly hos- 
tility. Kosato told him his own story briefly; — it gives 
a picture of the deep, strong passions that work in the 
bosoms of these miscalled stoics. 

' ' You see my wife, ' ' said he : " she is good ; she is 
beautiful — I love her. Yet she has been the cause of 
all my troubles. She was the wife of my chief. I 
loved her more than he did; and she knew it. We 
talked together; we laughed together; we were always 
seeking each other's society; but we were as innocent 
as children. The chief grew jealous and commanded 
her to speak with me no more. His heart became 
hard towards her; his jealousy grew more furious. 
He beat her without cause and without mercy; and 
threatened to kill her outright, if she even looked at me. 
Do you want traces of his fury ? L,ook at that scar ! 
His rage against me was no less persecuting. War 
parties of the Crows were hovering round us; our 
young men had seen their trail. All hearts were 
roused for action; my horses were before my lodge. 
Suddenly the chief came, took them to his own pickets, 
and called them his own. What could I do ? — he was 
a chief. I durst not speak, but my heart was burning. 
I joined no longer in the council, the hunt, or the war- 
feast. What had I to do there ? an unhorsed, degraded 
warrior. I kept by myself, and thought of nothing 
but these wrongs and outrages. 

"I was sitting one evening upon a knoll that over- 
looked the meadow where the horses were pastured. I 
saw the horses that were once mine grazing among 
those of the chief. This maddened me, and I sat 



The Nez Perces 129 

brooding for a time over the injuries I had sufEered 
and the cruelties which she I loved had endured for 
my sake, until my heart swelled and grew sore and 
my teeth were clinched. As I looked down upon the 
meadow, I saw the chief walking among his horses. I 
fastened my eyes on him as a hawk's; my blood 
boiled; I drew my breath hard. He went among the 
willows. In an instant I was on my feet; my hand 
was on my knife — I flew rather than ran; before he 
was aware, I sprang upon him, and with two blows 
laid him dead at my feet. I covered his body with 
earth and strewed bushes over the place; then hast- 
ened to her I loved, told her what I had done, and 
urged her to fly with me. She only answered me with 
tears. I reminded her of the wrongs I had suffered 
and of the blows and stripes she had endured from the 
deceased; I had done nothing but an act of justice. I 
again urged her to fly; but she only wept the more 
and bade me go. My heart was heavy, but my eyes 
were dry. I folded my arms. ' 'T is well,' said I, 
' Kosato will go alone to the desert. None will be 
with him but the wild beasts of the desert. The seek- 
ers of blood may follow on his trail. They may come 
upon him when he sleeps, and glut their revenge; but 
you will be safe. Kosato will go alone. ' 

' ' I turned away. She sprang after me, and strained 
me in her arms. ' No,' cried she, ' Kosato shall not go 
alone! Wherever he goes I will go — he shall never 
part from me.' 

' ' We hastily took in our hands such things as we 
most needed, and stealing quietly from the village, 
mounted the first horses we encountered. Speeding 
day and night, we soon reached this tribe. They re- 
ceived us with welcome, and we have dwelt with them 



130 The Fur Traders 

in peace. They are good and kind ; they are honest ; 
but their hearts are the hearts of women. ' ' 

Such was the story of Kosato. It is of a kind that 
often occurs in Indian life, where love elopements from 
tribe to tribe are frequent. 



CHAPTER XV 
The rendezvous op 1833 

ON the 19th of December Captain Bonneville and 
his confederate Indians raised their camp and 
entered the narrow gorge made by the north fork of 
Salmon River, for up this lay the secure and plenteous 
hunting region so temptingly described by the Indians. 
Here, then, there was a cessation from toil, from hun- 
ger, and alarm. Past ills and dangers were forgotten. 
The hunt, the game, the song, the story, the rough 
though good-humoured joke, made time pass joyously 
away, and plenty and security reigned throughout the 
camp, giving a seasonable flavour to the Christmas 
time. 

The festivities, however, were scarcely over when 
Captain Bonneville determined to start in person in 
search of Matthieu, whose failure to reach the camp 
before winter set in had caused great uneasiness for his 
safety. Accordingly, on the 26th of December, he left 
the camp, accompanied by thirteen stark trappers and 
hunters, all well mounted and armed for dangerous en- 
terprise. On the following morning they passed out 
at the head of the mountain gorge and sallied forth 
into the open plain. As they confidently expected a 
brush with the Blackfeet, or some other predatory 
horde, they moved with great circumspection, and 
kept vigilant watch in their encampments. 

In the course of another day they left the main 
131 



132 The Fur Traders 

branch of Salmon River, and proceeded south towards 
a pass called John Day's Defile. It was severe and 
arduous travelling. The plains were swept by keen 
and bitter blasts of wintry wind; the ground was gen- 
erally covered with snow, game was scarce, so that 
hunger generally prevailed in the camp, while the 
want of pasturage soon began to manifest itself in the 
declining vigour of the horses. 

The party had scarcely encamped on the afternoon 
of the 28th, when two of the hunters who had sallied 
forth in quest of game came galloping back in great 
alarm. While hunting they had perceived a party of 
savages, evidently manoeuvring to cut them off from 
the camp; and nothing had saved them from being 
entrapped but the speed of their horses. 

Captain Bonneville then ordered the horses to be 
driven in and picketed, and threw up a rough breast- 
work of fallen trunks of trees, and the vegetable rub- 
bish of the wilderness. Within this barrier was 
maintained a vigilant watch throughout the night, 
which passed away without alarm. At early dawn 
they scrutinised the surrounding plain, to discover 
whether any enemies had been lurking about during 
the night; not a footprint, however, was to be dis- 
covered in the coarse gravel with which the plain was 
covered. 

After a few days of such uncertainty, hunger began 
to cause them more fear than a neighbouring enemy. 
With Captain Bonneville, however, perseverance was a 
matter of pride. Onward, therefore, the little band 
urged their way through difficulties and dangers that 
were at times appalling. Finally they found (January 
i3» 1833) an encampment of Bannock Indians near the 
Snake River, and in it two of Matthieu's men, who 



The Rendezvous of 1833 ^33 

were there expecting the main party, which arrived 
somewhat later. 

Captain Bonneville remained on Snake River nearly 
three weeks after the arrival of Matthieu and his party. 
At length, his horses having recovered strength suffi- 
cient for a journey, he set out to visit his caches on 
Salmon River. These he found perfectly secure, and, 
having secretly opened them, he selected such articles 
as were necessary to equip the free trappers, and to 
supply the inconsiderable trade with the Indians, after 
which he closed them again. The free trappers, being 
newly rigged out and supplied, were in high spirits, 
and swaggered gaily about the camp. To compensate 
all hands for past sufferings, and to give a cheerful 
spur to further operations. Captain Bonneville now 
gave the men what, in frontier phrase, is termed "a 
regular blow-out. ' ' It was a day of uncouth gambols 
and frolics, and rude feasting. The Indians joined 
in the sports and games, and all was mirth and good 
fellowship. 

It was now the middle of March, and Captain Bonne- 
ville made preparations to open the spring campaign. 
For his main trapping ground for the season he had 
pitched upon the Malade River, a stream which rises 
nearly south from the sources of the Salmon and flows 
south-west into the Snake. Previous to his departure, 
the Captain despatched Mr. Cerre with a few men, to 
visit the Indian villages and purchase horses; he fur- 
nished his clerk, Mr. Hodgkiss, also with a small stock 
of goods, to keep up a trade with the Indians during 
the spring, for such peltries as they might collect, ap- 
pointing the caches on Salmon River as the point of 
rendezvous, where they were to rejoin him on the 15th 
of June following. 



134 The Fur Traders 

This done, he set out for Malade River with a band 
of twenty-eight men, composed of hired and free trap- 
pers, and Indian hunters, together with eight squaws. 
About the beginning of April, they encamped upon 
Godin's River, where they found the swamp full of 
" muskrat houses." Here, therefore. Captain Bonne- 
ville determined to remain a few days, and that his 
maiden campaign might open with spirit, he promised 
the Indians and free trappers an extra price for every 
muskrat they should take. The abundance of musk- 
rats in the swamp was but an earnest of the nobler 
game they were to find when they should reach the 
Malade River, where they might trap at their leisure 
without molestation. 

In the midst of their gayety, a hunter came galloping 
into the camp, yelling, "A trail! a trail! — lodge poles! 
lodge poles ! ' ' The gayety of the camp was at an end. 
Their worst fears were soon confirmed, for the scouts 
found the party to be composed of twenty-two prime 
trappers, all well appointed, with excellent horses in 
capital condition, led by Milton Sublette and an able 
coadjutor named Gervais, and in full march for the 
Malade hunting ground. 

This was stunning news. The Malade River was the 
only trapping ground within reach; but to have to 
compete there with veteran trappers, perfectly at home 
among the mountains and admirably mounted, while 
they were so poorly provided with horses and trappers, 
and had but one man in their party acquainted with 
the country — it was out of the question! 

The rival parties now encamped together, not out of 
companionship, but to keep an eye upon each other. 
Day after day passed bj^ without any possibility of 
getting to the Malade country. Sublette and Gervais 



The Rendezvous of 1833 135 

endeavoured to force their way across the mountain; 
but the snows lay so deep as to oblige them to turn 
back. In the meantime, the Captain's horses were 
daily gaining strength, and their hoofs improving, 
which had been worn and battered by mountain serv- 
ice. The Captain, also, was increasing his stock of 
provisions, so that the delay was all in his favour. 

We shall not follow the Captain throughout his 
trapping campaign, which lasted until the beginning 
of June; nor detail all the manoeuvres of the rival 
trapping parties, and their various schemes to outwit 
and out-trap each other. Suffice it to say, that after 
having visited and camped about various streams with 
varying success, Captain Bonneville set forward early 
in June for the appointed rendezvous at the caches. 
On the way, he treated his party to a grand buffalo 
hunt. The scouts had reported numerous herds in a 
plain beyond an intervening height. There was an 
immediate halt; the fleetest horses were forthwith 
mounted, and the party advanced to the summit of the 
hill. Hence they beheld the great plain below abso- 
lutely swarming with buffalo. 

Twenty-two horsemen descended cautiously into the 
plain, conformably to the directions that had been 
given them. "It was a beautiful sight," said the 
Captain, " to see the runners advancing in column, at 
a slow trot, until within two hundred and fifty yards of 
the outskirts of the herd, then dashing on at full speed, 
until lost in the immense multitude of buffaloes scour- 
ing the plain in every direction." In the meantime. 
Captain Bonneville and the residue of the party moved 
on to the appointed camping ground; thither the most 
expert runners succeeded in driving numbers of buf- 
falo, which were killed hard by the camp, and the flesh 



136 The Fur Traders 

transported thither without difl&culty. In a Uttle while 
the whole camp looked like one great slaughter-house ; 
the carcasses were skilfully cut up, great fires were 
made, scafifolds erected for drying and jerking beef, 
and an ample provision was made for future subsist- 
ence. On the 15th of June Captain Bonneville and 
his party arrived safely at the caches, where he was 
joined by the other detachments of his main party, 
all in good health and spirits. The caches were 
again opened, supplies of various kinds taken out, 
and they celebrated with proper conviviality this 
merry meeting. 

Soon after this rendezvous, while he was on the 
Snake River plain. Captain Bonneville made one of his 
first essays at the strategy of the fur trade. There was 
at this time an assemblage of Nez Perces, Flatheads, 
and Cottonois Indians, encamped together upon the 
plain, well provided with beaver, which they had col- 
lected during the spring. These they were waiting to 
trafiic with a resident trader of the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany, who was stationed among them, and with whom 
they were accustomed to deal. As it happened, the 
trader was almost entirely destitute of Indian goods, 
his spring supply not having yet reached him. Cap- 
tain Bonneville had secret intelligence that supplies 
were on their way, and would soon arrive; he hoped, 
however, by a prompt move, to anticipate their arrival, 
and secure the market to himself. Throwing himself, 
therefore, among the Indians, he opened his packs of 
merchandise, and displayed the most tempting wares: 
bright cloths and scarlet blankets, and glittering orna- 
ments, and everything gay and glorious in the eyes of 
warrior or squaw — all, however, in vain. The Hud- 
son Bay trader was a perfect master of his business. 



The Rendezvous of 1833 137 

thoroughly acquainted with the Indians he had to deal 
with, and held such control over them that none dared 
to act openly in opposition to his wishes: nay more — 
he came nigh turning the tables upon the Captain, and 
shaking the allegiance of some of his free trappers, by 
distributing liquors among them. The latter, there- 
fore, was glad to give up a competition, where the war 
was likely to be carried into his own camp. 

In fact, the traders of the Hudson Bay Company had 
advantages over all competitors in the trade beyond 
the Rocky Mountains. That huge monopoly centred 
within itself not merely its own hereditary and long- 
established power and influence, but also those of its 
ancient rival, but now integral part, the famous North- 
west Company. It had thus its races of traders, trap- 
pers, hunters, and voyageiirs, born and brought up in 
its service, and inheriting from preceding generations 
a knowledge and aptitude in everything connected 
with Indian life and Indian traffic. In the process of 
years, this company had been enabled to spread its 
ramifications in every direction; its system of inter- 
course was founded upon a long and intimate know- 
ledge of the character and necessities of the various 
tribes, and of all the fastnesses, defiles, and favour- 
able hunting grounds of the country. Their capital, 
also, and the manner in which their supplies were dis- 
tributed at various posts, or forwarded by regular cara- 
vans, kept their traders well supplied, and enabled 
them to furnish their goods to the Indians at a cheap 
rate. Their men, too, being chiefly drawn from the 
Canadas, where they enjoyed great influence and con- 
trol, were engaged at the most trifling wages, and sup- 
ported at little cost; the provisions which they took 
with them being little more than Indian corn and 



138 The Fur Traders 

grease. They were brought, also, into the most per- 
fect discipline and subordination, especially when their 
leaders had once got them to their scene of action 
in the heart of the wilderness. 

These circumstances combined to give the leaders of 
the Hudson Bay Company a decided advantage over 
all the American companies that came within their 
range; so that any close competition with them was 
almost hopeless. 

Shortly after Captain Bonneville's ineffectual attempt 
to participate in the trade of the associated camp, the 
supplies of the Hudson Bay Company arrived; and the 
resident trader was enabled to monopolise the market. 

The Green River Valley was again in the summer of 
1833 the scene of one of those general gatherings of 
traders, trappers, and Indians that we have already 
mentioned. The three rival companies, which for a 
year past had been endeavouring to out-trade, out-trap, 
and outwit each other, were here encamped in close 
proximity, awaiting their annual supplies. About 
four miles from the rendezvous of Captain Bonne- 
ville was that of the American Fur Company, hard 
by which was that also of the Rocky Mountain Fur 
Company. 

After the eager rivalry and almost hostility displayed 
by these companies in their late campaigns, it might 
be expected that, when thus brought in juxtaposition, 
they would hold themselves waril}^ and sternly aloof 
from each other, and, should they happen to come in 
contact, brawl and bloodshed would ensue. 

At the present season, however, all parties were in 
good humour. The year had been productive. Com- 
petition, by threatening to lessen their profits, had 
quickened their wits; so that, on assembling at their 



The Rendezvous of 1833 139 

respective places of rendezvous, each company found 
itself in possession of a rich stock of peltries. 

The leaders of the different companies, therefore, 
mingled on terms of perfect good fellowship; inter- 
changing visits, and regaling each other in the best 
style their respective camps afforded. But the rich 
treat for the worthy Captain was to see the "chivalry" 
of the various encampments engaged in contests of 
skill at running, jumping, wrestling, shooting with the 
rifle, and running horses. And then their rough 
hunters' feastings and carousals. They drank to- 
gether, they sang, they laughed, they whooped ; they 
tried to outbrag and outlie each other in stories of their 
adventures and achievements. Here the free trappers 
were in all their glory; they considered themselves the 
"cocks of the walk, "and always carried the highest 
crests. 

The presence of the Shoshonie tribe contributed oc- 
casionally to cause temporary jealousies and feuds. 
The Shoshonie beauties became objects of rivalry 
among some of the amorous mountaineers. Happy 
was the trapper who could muster up a red blanket, 
a string of gay beads, or a paper of precious vermilion, 
with which to win the smiles of a vShoshonie fair one. 

The caravans of supplies arrived at the valley just at 
this period of gallantry and good-fellowship. Then 
commenced a scene of eager competition and wild 
prodigality at the different encampments. A mania 
for purchasing spread itself throughout the several 
bands; munitions for war, for hunting, for gallantry, 
were seized upon with equal avidity, — rifles, hunting 
knives, traps, scarlet cloth, red blankets, garish beads, 
and glittering trinkets were bought at any price, and 
scores run up without any thought how they were ever 



140 The Fur Traders 

to be rubbed off. Every freak of prodigality was in- 
dulged to its full extent, and in a little while most of 
the trappers, having squandered away all their wages, 
and perhaps run knee-deep in debt, were ready for 
another hard campaign in the wilderness. 



CHAPTER XVI 

THE CROW COUNTRY 

CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE now found himself at 
the head of a hardy company of trappers, all 
benefited by at least one year's experience among the 
mountains. He had, also, an excellent troop of horses 
in prime condition, and determined, therefore, to strike 
out into some of the bolder parts of his scheme. One 
of these was to carry his expeditions into some of the 
unknown tracts of the Far West, bej^ond what is gen- 
erally termed the buffalo range. Another favourite 
project was to establish a trading-post on the lower part 
of the Columbia River, near the Willamette Valley, 
and to endeavour to retrieve for his country some of 
the lost trade of Astoria. 

The first of the above-mentioned views was, at 
present, uppermost in his mind — the exploring of un- 
known regions. So important an undertaking he 
confided to his lieutenant, Mr. Walker, in whose 
experience and ability he had great confidence. He 
instructed him to keep along the shores of the Great 
Salt Lake, of which next to nothing was known, and 
trap in all the streams on his route; also to keep a 
journal, and minutely to record the events of his jour- 
ney, and everything curious or interesting, making 
maps or charts of his route, and of the surrounding 
country. 

141 



142 The Fur Traders 

No pains nor expense were spared in fitting out the 
party of forty men which he was to command. They 
had complete supplies for a year, and were to meet Cap- 
tain Bonneville, in the ensuing summer, in the valley 
of Bear River, the largest tributary of the Salt Lake. 

As soon as Captain Bonneville had sent Mr. Walker 
and his party on the journey that proved so long and 
eventful, he began to arrange for the transportation of 
his accumulating peltries to New York. Mr. Robert 
Campbell, the partner of Sublette, was at the time in 
the rendezvous of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, 
having brought up their supplies. As he was about to 
set off for St. Louis with that company's furs, Captain 
Bonneville decided to forward his own by the same 
route under the especial care of Mr. Cerre. Accord- 
ingly he broke camp on the 25th of July in order to 
escort Cerre in safety through the Crow country to the 
point of embarkation on the Big Horn River, his way 
lying thence down the Yellowstone and the Missouri 
to St. Louis. 

But first let us give the account of the Crow country, 
as rendered by Arapooish, a Crow chief, to Mr. Robert 
Campbell, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. 

' ' The Crow country, ' ' said he, " is a good country. 
The Great Spirit has put it exactly in the right place; 
while you are in it you fare well; whenever you go 
out of it, whichever way you travel, you fare worse. 

' ' If you go to the south, you have to wander over 
great barren plains: the water is warm and bad, and 
you meet the fever and ague. 

" To the north it is cold; the winters are long and 
bitter, with no grass; you cannot keep horses there, 
but must travel with dogs. What is a country without 
horses ? 



The Crow Country 143 

" On the Columbia they are poor and dirty, paddle 
about in canoes, and eat fish. Their teeth are worn 
out; they are always taking fish-bones out of their 
mouths. Fish is poor food. 

' ' To the east, they dwell in villages ; they live well ; 
but they drink the muddy water of the Missouri — 
that is bad. A Crow's dog would not drink such 
water. 

"About the forks of the Missouri is a fine country, 
good water; good grass; plenty of buffalo. In sum- 
mer, it is almost as good as the Crow country ; but in 
winter it is cold; the grass is gone; and there is no 
salt weed for the horses. 

"The Crow country is exactly in the right place. It 
has snowy mountains and sunny plains; all kinds of 
climates and good things for every season. When the 
summer heats scorch the prairies, you can draw up 
under the mountains, where the air is sweet and cool, 
the grass fresh, and the bright streams come tumbling 
out of the snow-banks. There you can hunt the elk, 
the deer, and the antelope, when their skins are fit for 
dressing; there you will find plenty of white bears and 
mountain sheep. 

" In the autumn, when your horses are fat and strong 
from the mountain pastures, you can go down into the 
plains and hunt the buffalo, or trap beaver on the 
streams. And when winter comes on you can take shel- 
ter in the woody bottoms along the rivers; there you 
will find buffalo meat for yourselves, and cottonwood 
bark for your horses : or you may winter in the Wind 
River Valley, where there is salt weed in abundance. 

' ' The Crow country is exactly in the right place. 
Everything good is to be found there. There is no 
country like the Crow country. ' ' 



144 The Fur Traders 

Such was the eulogium on his country by Arapooish. 

Mr. Robert Campbell, from whom we have this ac- 
count, in the course of one of his trapping expeditions 
was quartered in the village of Arapooish, and was a 
guest in the lodge of the chieftain. He had collected a 
large quantity of furs, and, fearful of being plundered, 
deposited but a part in the lodge of the chief; the rest 
he buried in a cache. One night, Arapooish came into 
the lodge with a cloudy brow, and seated himself for a 
time without saying a word. At length, turning to 
Campbell, " You have more furs with you," said he, 
" than you have brought into my lodge ? " 

' ' I have, ' ' replied Campbell. 

" Where are they ? " 

Campbell knew the uselessness of any prevarication 
with an Indian ; and the importance of complete frank- 
ness. He described the exact place where he had 
concealed his peltries. 

" 'T is well," replied Arapooish ; " you speak 
straight. It is just as you say. But your cache has 
been robbed. Go and see how many skins have been 
taken from it." 

Campbell examined the cache, and estimated his loss 
to be about one hundred and fifty beaver skins. 

Arapooish now summoned a meeting of the village. 
He bitterly reproached his people for robbing a stranger 
who had confided to their honour; and commanded 
that whoever had taken the skins should bring them 
back; declaring that, as Campbell was his guest and 
inmate of his lodge, he would not eat nor drink until 
every skin was restored to him. 

The meeting broke up, and every one dispersed. 
Arapooish now charged Campbell to give neither re- 
ward nor thanks to any one who should bring in 



The Crow Country 145 

the beaver skins, but to keep count as they were 
delivered. 

In a little while the skins began to make their ap- 
pearance, a few at a time; they were laid down in the 
lodge, and those who brought them departed without 
saying a word. The day passed away. Arapooish sat 
in one corner of his lodge, wrapped up in his robe, 
scarcely moving a muscle of his countenance. When 
night arrived, he demanded if all the skins had been 
brought in. Above a hundred had been given up, and 
Campbell expressed himself contented. Not so the 
Crow chieftain. He fasted all that night, nor tasted a 
drop of water. In the morning, some more skins were 
brought in, and continued to come, one and two at 
a time, throughout the day ; until but a few were want- 
ing to make the number complete. Campbell was now 
anxious to put an end to this fasting of the old chief, 
and again declared that he was perfectly satisfied. 
Arapooish demanded what number of skins were yet 
wanting. On being told, he whispered to some of his 
people, who disappeared. After a time the number 
were brought in, though it was evident they were not 
any of the skins that had been stolen, but others 
gleaned in the village. 

' ' Is all right now ? ' ' demanded Arapooish. 

" All is right," replied Campbell. 

" Good! Now bring me meat and drink! " 

When they were alone together, Arapooish had a 
conversation with his guest. 

* ' When you come another time among the Crows, ' ' 
said he, "don't hide your goods: trust to them and 
they will not wrong you. Put your goods in the 
lodge of a chief, and they are sacred ; hide them in a 
cache, and any one who finds will steal them. My 



146 The Fur Traders 

people have now given up your goods for my sake; 
but there are some foolish young men in the village 
who may be disposed to be troublesome. Don't linger, 
therefore, but pack your horses and be off, ' ' 

Campbell took his advice, and made his way safely 
out of the Crow country. He has ever since main- 
tained that the Crows are not so black as they are 
painted. ' ' Trust to their honour, ' ' says he, * ' and you 
are safe: trust to their honesty, and they will steal the 
hair off of your head. ' ' 

Arapooish has an interest for the reader of this nar- 
rative from the fact that he became chief of the Crows 
when they were deserted by Rose, that designing vaga- 
bond who acted as guide and interpreter to Mr. Hunt 
and his party on their journey across the mountains to 
Astoria. Rose, it will be remembered, staid among the 
Crows, marrying one of their women, and adopting 
their congenial habits. 

Having distinguished himself in repeated actions 
against the Blackfeet, Rose, on one occasion, led a 
storming party against a strong breastwork of the 
enemy. The first Blackfoot that opposed him he shot 
down with his rifle, and, snatching up the war-club of 
his victim, he killed four others within the fort. The 
victory was complete, and Rose returned to the Crow 
village covered with glory and distinguished by the 
name of Che-ku-kaats, or " the man who killed five." 
He became chief of the band, and for a time he was the 
popular idol ; but having soon awakened the envy of 
the native braves, and tiring of the feuds that grew 
out of their hostility, he left his adopted brethren, and 
in 1823 went down the Missouri. 

It was in this year that Rose, as interpreter, served 
General Ashley faithfully, and warned that gentleman 



The Crow Country 147 

of the impending attack by the Aricaras. He also 
proved very valuable in the same capacity to Colonel 
Leavenworth, who so promptly followed up the defeat 
of Ashley with an expedition against the offending 
Aricaras. 

When General Atkinson made his military expedi- 
tion up the Missouri, in 1825, to protect the fur trade, 
he held a conference with the Crow nation, at which 
Rose figured as Indian dignitary and Crow interpreter. 
While the general and the chiefs were smoking pipes 
and making speeches, the officers, supposing all was 
friendly, left the troops, and drew near the scene of 
ceremonial. Some of the more knowing Crows, per- 
ceiving this, stole quietly to the camp, and, unobserved, 
contrived to stop the touch-holes of the field-pieces 
with dirt. Shortly after, a misunderstanding occurred 
in the conference: some of the Indians, knowing the 
cannon to be useless, became insolent. A tumult arose. 
In the confusion. Colonel O' Fallon snapped a pistol in 
the face of a brave, and knocked him down with the 
butt end. The Crows were all in a fury. A chance- 
medley fight was on the point of taking place, when 
Rose, his natural sympathies as a white man suddenly 
recurring, broke the stock of his fusee over the head 
of a Crow warrior, and laid so vigorously about him 
with the barrel, that he soon put the whole throng to 
flight. Luckily, as no lives had been lost, this sturdy 
rib roasting calmed the fury of the Crows, and the 
tumult ended without serious consequences. 

Of the later life of Rose nothing is known, nor the 
manner of his death. His grave is still pointed out on 
the bank of the Missouri nearly opposite the mouth of 
the Milk River. His career among the Crow Indians 
had the effect of strengthening them as a nation against 



148 The Fur Traders 

the Blackfeet — their natural enemy — and it also showed 
them the advantage of allying themselves with the 
whites, toward whom they gradually inclined, though 
they seem never to have overcome their thievish pro- 
pensities. 



CHAPTER XVII 

THE WIND RIVER MOUNTAINS 

CAPTAIN BONNEVII.I.K proceeded around the 
south point of the Wind River Mountains, and 
reached the head of navigation on the Big Horn with- 
out other incident than a visit on the way to a " Tar 
Spring, ' ' the medicinal properties of which were highly 
praised by trappers. Here the men hastened to gather 
a quantity of what we now know as petroleum, but 
which was then a remedy of great rarity, forming the 
principal ingredient in the medicine then called British 
Oil, and also called Seneca Oil, from being found near 
Seneca Eake in the State of New York, The men 
used it for their bruises, sprains, and sore muscles, and 
for similar purposes in connection with their horses. 

His route had been across the valley of the Green 
River, through the South Pass, and down the Popo 
Agie to the Big Horn. A few days before reaching 
that point, Captain Bonneville fell in with Campbell 
and his party, which consisted of his escort for the trip 
down the river, of his partners Fitzpatrick and Milton 
Sublette, and of Nathaniel J. Wyeth. All but Fitz- 
patrick were bound down the river; but in fear of him. 
Captain Bonneville detached secretly two trapping 
parties to preoccupy the valleys he had selected and to 
meet him later at Medicine Lodge Valley. In this ap- 
prehension, however, he was mistaken, for the moment 

149 



150 The Fur Traders 

Campbell and his men had embarked with their pre- 
cious freight, Fitzpatrick took charge of all the horses, 
numbering a hundred, and struck oflF to the east (in- 
stead of the west) to trap upon the L^ittle Horn, Powder, 
and Tongue rivers. It may be added here that within 
a month he was robbed by the Crows of all his horses 
and stripped of all he had. 

Meantime all hands had set to work to build " bull 
boats" for the trip to St. lyouis. Wyeth was ready 
first; and, with his usual promptness and hardihood, 
launched his frail bark, singly, on this wild and 
hazardous voyage, taking with him Milton Sublette, 
his former fellow-traveller and his companion in the 
battle at Pierre's Hole. A detailed account of this 
trip has been preserved, and is given in a later chapter. 
Mr. Campbell took command of his own boats; and 
Mr. Cerre and a party of thirty-six men, of Captain 
Bonneville's, the combined forces making a truly 
formidable array as they set off down the bright cur- 
rent of the Big Horn. 

Now that Fitzpatrick had set out in the direction 
opposite to his own intended course, Captain Bonneville 
was free to prosecute his trapping campaign without 
rivalry. Accordingly, on the 17th of August, he set 
out for the rendezvous at Medicine I,odge. He had 
but four men remaining with him, and forty-six 
horses to take care of. With these he had to make 
his way through a region full of peril for a numerous 
cavalcade so slightly manned. In fact, during the 
afternoon of his first da3''s march, he observed, to his 
disquiet, a cloud of smoke arising from the base of the 
Big Horn Mountains, and came upon a deserted Black- 
foot camp and fresh traces of these Indians. He, 
therefore, avoided this dangerous neighbourhood, pro- 



The Wind River Mountains 151 

ceeding with the utmost caution, for it was dangerous 
to light a fire or discharge a gun, where such quick- 
eared and quick-sighted enemies were at hand. 

On the last day of the march, hunger got the better 
of their caution, and they shot a fine buffalo bull; but, 
without halting to make a meal, they carried the meat 
with them to the rendezvous, where they celebrated 
their safe arrival by a hearty supper. Next morning 
they erected a strong pen for the horses, and a fortress 
of logs for themselves, continuing to observe the great- 
est caution, even in regard to their cooking, which was 
all done at midday, when a fire makes no glare and 
a moderate smoke cannot be perceived at any great 
distance. 

In this way the little party remained for several days, 
until, on 29th of August, the two detachments they 
had been expecting arrived together at the rendezvous. 
From the reports thus brought to him, Captain Bonne- 
ville was sure that he was in a region teeming with 
danger. 

He broke up his encampment, therefore, on the ist of 
September, and made his way to the south, across the 
Little Horn Mountain, until he reached Wind River, 
and then turning westward, moved slowly up the 
banks of that stream, giving time for his men to trap 
as he proceeded. As it was not in the plan of the pre- 
sent hunting campaign to go near the caches on Green 
River, and as the trappers were in want of traps to re- 
place those they had lost, Captain Bonneville undertook 
to visit the caches, and procure a suppl3\ To accom- 
pany him in this hazardous expedition, which would 
take him through the defiles of the Wind River Mount- 
ains, and up the Green River Valley, he took but 
three men ; the main party were to continue on trapping 



152 The Fur Traders 

up towards the head of Wind River, near which he 
was to rejoin them, just about the place where that 
stream issues from the mountains. 

Having forded Wind River a little above its mouth, 
Captain Bonneville and his three companions proceeded 
across a gravelly plain, until they fell upon the Popo 
Agie, up the left bank of which they held their course, 
nearly in a southerly direction. Here they came upon 
numerous droves of buffalo, and halted for the purpose 
of procuring a supply of beef. As the hunters were 
stealing cautiously to get within shot of the game, two 
small white bears suddenly presented themselves in 
their path, and, rising upon their hind legs, contem- 
plated them for some time, with a whimsically solemn 
gaze. The hunters remained motionless; whereupon 
the bears, having apparently satisfied their curiosity, 
lowered themselves upon all fours, and began to with- 
draw. The hunters now advanced, upon which the 
bears turned, rose again upon their haunches, and re- 
peated their serio-comic examination. This was re- 
peated several times, until the hunters, piqued at their 
unmannerly staring, rebuked it with a discharge of 
their rifles. The bears made an awkward bound or 
two, as if wounded, and then walked off with great 
gravity, seeming to commune together, and every now 
and then turning to take another look at the hunters. 

The hunters succeeded in killing a couple of fine 
cows, and, having secured the best of the meat, con- 
tinued forward until some time after dark, when, 
encamping in a large thicket of willows, they made a 
great fire, roasted buffalo beef enough for half a score, 
disposed of the whole of it with keen relish and high 
glee, and then ' ' turned in ' ' for the night and slept 
soundly, like weary and well-fed hunters. 



The Wind River Mountains 153 

In the afternoon of the second day, the travellers at- 
tained one of the elevated valleys locked up in the Wind 
River Mountains through which they were trying to 
cross. Here were two bright and beautiful little lakes, 
set like mirrors in the midst of stern and rocky heights, 
and surrounded by grassy meadows, inexpressibly re- 
freshing to the eye. They had now ascended to a great 
height above the level of the plains, yet they beheld 
huge crags of granite piled one upon another, and 
beetling like battlements far above them. While two 
of the men remained in the camp with the horses, Cap- 
tain Bonneville, accompanied by the other man, reached 
the summit of a lofty cliflf, but it was only to behold 
gigantic peaks rising all around. For a time, the In- 
dian fable seemed realised : he had attained that height 
from which the Blackfoot warrior after death first 
catches a view of the land of souls, and beholds the 
happy hunting grounds spread out below him, brighten- 
ing with the abodes of the free and generous spirits. 

The view from the snowy peak of the Wind River 
Mountains, while it excited Captain Bonneville's en- 
thusiasm, satisfied him that it would be useless to force 
a passage westward, through multiplying barriers of 
cliffs and precipices. Turning his face eastward, 
therefore, he endeavoured to descend, and to extricate 
himself from the heart of this rock-piled wilderness. 

On the second day of their descent, the travellers, 
having got beyond the steepest pitch of the mountains, 
came to where the deep and rugged ravine began occa- 
sionally to expand into small levels or valleys. Here, 
not merely the river itself, but every rivulet flowing 
into it, was dammed up by communities of industrious 
beavers, so as to innundate the neighbourhood, and 
make continual swamps. 



154 The Fur Traders 

During a middaj^ halt in one of these beaver valleys, 
Captain Bonneville left his companions, and strolled 
down the course of the stream to reconnoitre. He had 
not proceeded far, when he came to a beaver pond, and 
caught a glimpse of one of its painstaking inhabitants 
busily at work upon the dam. He moved forward 
with the utmost caution until, having attained a posi- 
tion commanding a view of the whole pond, he stretched 
himself flat on the ground, and watched the solitary 
workman. In a little while, three others appeared at 
the head of the dam, bringing sticks and bushes. With 
these they proceeded directly to the barrier, which Cap- 
tain Bonneville perceived was in need of repair. Hav- 
ing deposited their loads upon the broken part, they 
dived into the water, and shortly reappeared at the 
surface. Each now brought a quantity of mud, with 
which he would plaster the sticks and bushes just de- 
posited. This kind of masonry was continued for some 
time, repeated supplies of wood and mud being brought, 
and treated in the same manner. This done, the in- 
dustrious beavers indulged in a little recreation, chas- 
ing each other about the pond, dodging and whisking 
about on the surface, or diving to the bottom; and in 
their frolic often slapping their tails on the water with 
a loud, clacking sound. While they were thus amusing 
themselves, another of the fraternity made his appear- 
ance, and looked gravely on their sports for some time, 
without offering to join in them. He then climbed the 
bank close to where the Captain was concealed, and, 
rearing himself on his hind quarters, in a sitting posi- 
tion, put his fore paws against a young pine-tree, and 
began to cut the bark with his teeth. At times he 
would tear oflF a small piece, and holding it between 
his paws, and retaining his sitting position, would feed 



The Wind River Mountains 155 

himself with it, after the fashion of a monkey. The 
object of the beaver, however, was evidently to cut 
down the tree; and he was proceeding with his work, 
when he was alarmed by the approach of Captain 
Bonneville's men, who, feeling anxious at the pro- 
tracted absence of their leader, were coming in search 
of him. At the sound of their voices, all the beavers, 
busy as well as idle, dived at once beneath the surface, 
and were no more to be seen. 

Great choice, according to the Captain, is certainly 
displayed by the beaver in selecting the wood which is 
to furnish bark for winter provision. The whole 
beaver household, old and j-oung, set out upon this 
business, and will often make long journe3\s before 
they are suited. Sometimes they cut down trees of the 
largest size and then cull the branches, the bark of 
which is most to their taste. These they cut into 
lengths of about three feet, convey them to the water, 
and float them to their lodges, where they are stored 
away for winter. They are studious of cleanliness and 
comfort in their lodges, and after their repasts will 
carry out the sticks from which they have eaten the 
bark, and throw them into the current beyond the bar- 
rier. They are jealous, too, of their territories, and 
extremely pugnacious, never permitting a strange 
beaver to enter their premises, and often fighting with 
such virulence as almost to tear each other to pieces. 
In the spring, which is the breeding season, the male 
leaves the female at home, and sets off on a tour of 
pleasure, rambling often to a great distance. As sum- 
mer advances, he gives up his bachelor rambles, and be- 
thinking himself of housekeeping duties, returns home 
to his new mate and his progeny, and marshals them all 
for the foraging expedition in quest of winter provisions. 



156 The Fur Traders 

Practice has given such quickness to the eye of the 
experienced trapper that he can detect the slightest 
sign of beaver, no matter how well concealed the lodge 
may be by close thickets and overhanging willows. He 
now goes to work to set his trap, planting it on the 
shore in some chosen place, two or three inches below 
the surface of the water, and secures it by a chain to a 
pole set deep in the mud. A small twig is then stripped 
of its bark, and one end is dipped in the ' ' medicine, ' ' 
as the trappers term the peculiar bait which they em- 
ploy. This end of the stick rises about four inches 
above the surface of the water, the other end is planted 
between the jaws of the trap. The beaver, possessing 
an acute sense of smell, is soon attracted by the odour 
of the bait. As he raises his nose towards it, his foot 
is caught in the trap. In his fright he throws a somer- 
set into the deep water. The trap, being fastened to 
the pole, resists all his efforts to drag it to the shore; 
the chain by which it is fastened defies his teeth; he 
struggles for a time, and at length sinks to the bottom 
and is drowned. 

Occasionally it happens that several members of a 
beaver family are trapped in succession. The surviv- 
ors then become extremely shy, and can scarcely be 
" brought to medicine," to use the trapper's phrase for 
' ' taking the bait. ' ' In such case the trapper gives up 
the use of the bait, and conceals his traps in the usual 
paths and crossing-places of the household. The 
beaver, now being completely "up to trap," approaches 
them cautiously, and springs them ingeniously with a 
stick. At other times he turns the traps bottom up- 
wards, by the same means, and occasionally even 
drags them to the barrier and conceals them in the 
mud. The trapper now gives up the contest of in- 



The Wind River Mountains 157 

genuity, and, shouldering his traps, marches off, admit- 
ting that he is not yet "up to beaver." 

On the day following Captain Bonneville's super- 
vision of the industrious and frolicsome community of 
beavers, he succeeded in extricating himself from the 
Wind River Mountains, and, regaining the plain to the 
eastward, made a great bend to the south, so as to go 
round the bases of the mountains, and arrived without 
further incident of importance at the old place of ren- 
dezvous in Green River Valley, on the 17th of Septem- 
ber. 

A week later they were back again with the main 
body; and both had many adventures to tell. The 
others, in pursuing their course up the Wind River 
Valley, had been dogged the whole way by a war 
party of Crows. In one place, they had been fired 
upon, but without injury; in another place, one of 
their horses had been cut loose, and carried off. Some 
of the trappers, however, pursued their vocations about 
the neighbouring streams whenever there was a halt. 
While one of them was setting his traps, he heard the 
tramp of horses, and looking up, beheld a party of Crow 
braves moving along at no great distance, with a con- 
siderable cavalcade. The trapper was discerned by the 
quick eye of the savages, and with whoops and yells 
they dragged him from his hiding-place, flourished over 
his head their tomahawks and scalping-knives, and for 
a time the poor trapper gave himself up for lost. For- 
tunately, the Crows were in a jocose mood, amusing 
themselves heartily at the expense of his terrors ; and 
after having played off divers Crow pranks and pleas- 
antries, suffered him to depart unharmed. It is true, 
they stripped him completely, one taking his horse, 
another his gun, a third his traps, a fourth his blanket, 



158 The Fur Traders 

and so on, througli all his accoutrements, and even his 
clothing, until he was stark naked ; but then they gen- 
erously made him a present of an old tattered buffalo 
robe, and dismissed him, with many complimentary 
speeches, and much laughter. 

When the trapper returned to the camp, in such 
sorry plight, he was greeted with peals of laughter 
from his comrades, and seemed more mortified by the 
style in which he had been dismissed than rejoiced at 
escaping with his life. The Crows had evidently had 
a run of luck, and, like winning gamblers, were in high 
good humour. Among twenty-six fine horses, and 
some mules, which composed their cavalcade, the trap- 
per recognised a number which had belonged to Fitz- 
patrick's brigade, when they parted company on the 
Big Horn. It was supposed, therefore, that these 
vagabonds had been on his trail, and robbed him of 
part of his cavalry. 

On the day following this aif air, three Crows came into 
Captain Bonneville's camp, with the most easy, inno- 
cent, if not impudent, air imaginable; walking about 
with that imperturbable coolness and unconcern in 
which the Indian rivals the fine gentleman. As they 
had not been of the set which stripped the trapper, 
though evidently of the same band, they were not mo- 
lested. Indeed, Captain Bonneville treated them with 
his usual kindness, permitting them to remain all day 
in the camp, and even to pass the night there. At the 
same time, however, he caused a strict watch to be 
maintained on all their movements; and at night sta- 
tioned an armed sentinel near them, for he suspected 
them to be spies. He warned his guests, that while 
they were perfectly welcome to the shelter and comfort 
of his camp, yet, should any of their tribe venture to 



The Wind River Mountains 159 

approach during the night, they would certainlj^ be 
shot; which would be a very unfortunate circumstance, 
and much to be deplored. To the latter remark, they 
fully assented; and shortly afterward commenced a 
wild song, or chant, which they kept up for a long 
time. In this they very probably gave their friends 
notice that the white men were on the alert. In the 
morning, the three Crow guests were very pressing 
that Captain Bonneville and his party should accom- 
pany them to their camp, which they said was close 
by. Instead of accepting their invitation, Captain 
Bonneville took his departure with all possible de- 
spatch, eager to be out of the vicinity of such a piratical 
horde. 

As the time had now arrived for Captain Bonneville 
to go in quest of the party of free trappers, detached 
in the beginning of July, under the command of Mr. 
Hodgkiss, he took a temporary leave of his band, ap- 
pointing a rendezvous on Snake River, and, accom- 
panied by three men, set out upon his journey. 

Except for a friendly meeting with a small band of 
Bannock Indians, the trip, which lasted from the nth 
to the 20th of November, was without incident, and he 
readily found the trail and then the encampment of 
Hodgkiss and his free trappers. Meantime he had de- 
termined upon a spot for winter quarters along the 
Snake River, not far from the Portneuf, whither he 
soon lead his reunited band. 

Winter then set in regularly. The snow fell fre- 
quently and in large quantities, and covered the ground 
to the depth of a foot; and the continued coldness of 
the weather prevented any thaw. By degrees, a dis- 
trust which at first subsisted between the Bannock In- 
dians, who were encamped near by, and the trappers 



i6o The Fur Traders 

subsided, and gave way to mutual confidence and 
good-will. A few presents convinced the chiefs that 
the white men were their friends: nor were the white 
men wanting in proofs of the honesty and good faith 
of their savage neighbours. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

DOWN the; COI.UMBIA 

BEING convinced that his people would pass their 
winter unmolested, Captain Bonneville prepared 
for a reconnoitring expedition of great extent and 
peril. This was, to penetrate to the Hudson Bay- 
establishments on the banks of the Columbia, and to 
make himself acquainted with the country and the In- 
dian tribes ; it being one part of his scheme to establish 
a trading post on the lower part of the river, so as to 
participate in the trade lost to the United States by the 
capture of Astoria. 

He chose three companions for his journey, put up 
a small stock of necessaries in the most portable form, 
and selected five horses and mules for themselves and 
their baggage. All these arrangements being com- 
pleted, he mounted his horse on Christmas morning, 
and set off with his three comrades. They halted a 
little beyond the Bannock camp, and made their Christ- 
mas dinner, which, if not a very merry, was a very 
hearty one; after which they resumed their journey. 

We will not pretend to accompany the travellers step 
by step in the tremendous mountain scrambles into 
which they unconsciously betrayed themselves. Day 
after day did their toil continue; peak after peak had 
they to traverse, struggling with difiSculties and hard- 
ships known only to the mountain trapper. As their 

l6i 



i62 The Fur Traders 

course lay north, they had to ascend the southern faces 
of the heights, where the sun had so melted the snow 
as to render the ascent wet and slippery, and to keep 
both men and horses continually on the strain; while 
on the northern sides, the snow lay in such heavy 
masses that it was necessary to beat a track down 
which the horses might be led. 

They and their horses were almost ready to give out 
with fatigue and hunger, when one afternoon, just as 
the sun was sinking, they came to the brow of a height 
from which they beheld a smooth valley stretched out 
in smiling verdure before them. The sight inspired 
almost a frenzy of delight. Roused to new ardour, 
they forgot for a time their fatigues, and hurried down 
the mountain, dragging their jaded horses after them, 
and sometimes compelling them to slide a distance of 
thirty or forty feet at a time. 

It was now (the i6th of February) fifty-three days 
that they had been travelling in the midst of winter, 
exposed to all kinds of privations and hardships; and 
for the last twenty days they had been entangled in 
the wild and desolate labyrinths of snowy mountains. 
Hence, it added much to their joy to observe Indian 
trails along the margin of the stream, and other signs 
which gave them reason to believe that there was an 
encampment of the Lower Nez Perces in the neighbour- 
hood. In fact, next day they caught sight of an Indian 
horseman at a distance. When he saw them, he sud- 
denly came to a halt and seemed about to make a cau- 
tious retreat. He remained for some time in doubt; 
but at length, having satisfied himself that they were 
not enemies, came galloping up to them, mounted on 
a high-mettled steed, with gaudy trappings and equip- 
ments. 



Down the Columbia 163 

Approaching them with an air of protection, he gave 
them his hand, and, in the Nez Perce language, invited 
them to his camp, which was only a few miles distant. 
There he had plenty to eat, and plenty of horses, and 
would cheerfully share his good things with them. 
Then, wheeling round and giving reins to his mettle- 
some steed, he was soon out of sight. The travellers 
followed with gladdened hearts, but at a snail's pace; 
for their poor horses could scarcely drag one leg after 
the othei. Captain Bonneville, however, experienced 
a sudden and singular change of feeling. Hitherto, 
the necessity of conducting his party, and of providing 
against every emergency, had kept his mind upon the 
stretch, and his whole system braced and excited. Now 
that all danger was over, and the march of a few miles 
would bring them to repose and abundance, his ener- 
gies suddenly deserted him ; and every faculty, mental 
and physical, was totally relaxed. He had not pro- 
ceeded two miles when he threw himself upon the earth 
without the power or will to move a muscle or exert a 
thought, and sank almost instantly into a profound and 
dreamless sleep. His companions came to a halt, and 
encamped beside him, and there they passed the night. 

The next morning Captain Bonneville awoke from 
his long and heavy sleep, much refreshed ; and they all 
resumed their creeping progress. They had not been 
long on the march, when eight or ten of the Nez Perce 
tribe came galloping to meet them, leading fresh horses 
to bear them to their camp. Thus gallantly mounted, 
they felt new life infused into their languid frames, 
and dashing forward, were soon at the lodges of the 
Nez Perces. Here they found about twelve families 
living together, under the patriarchal sway of an an- 
cient and venerable chief. He received them with the 



164 The Fur Traders 

hospitality of the golden age, and with something of 
the same kind of fare ; for while he opened his arms to 
make them welcome, the only repast he set before them 
consisted of roots. They could have wished for some- 
thing more hearty and substantial; but, for want of 
better, made a voracious meal on these humble viands. 
The repast being over, the best pipe was lighted and 
sent round; this was a most welcome luxury, for they 
had lost their smoking apparatus twelve days before, 
among the mountains. 

While they were thus enjoying themselves, their 
poor horses were led to the best pastures in the neigh- 
bourhood, where they were turned loose to revel on the 
fresh sprouting grass; so that they had better fare than 
their masters. 

Captain Bonneville soon felt himself quite at home 
among these quiet, inoffensive people. His long resi- 
dence among their cousins, the Upper Nez Perces, had 
made him conversant with their language, modes of 
expression, and all their habits. He soon found, too, 
that he was well known among them, by report at least, 
from the constant interchange of visits and messages 
between the two branches of the tribe. They at first 
addressed him by his name, giving him his title of Cap- 
tain, with a French accent; but they soon gave him a 
title of their own, which, as usual with Indian titles, 
had a peculiar signification. In the case of the Captain, 
it had somewhat of a whimsical origin. 

As he sat chatting and smoking in the midst of them, 
he would occasionally take off his cap. Whenever he 
did so, there was a sensation in the surrounding circle. 
The Indians would half rise from their recumbent 
posture, and gaze upon his uncovered head, with their 
usual exclamation of astonishment. The worthy Cap- 




■vm'^i 



Down the Columbia 165 

tain was completely bald ; a phenomenon very surpris- 
ing in their eyes. They were at a loss to know whether 
he had been scalped in battle, or enjoyed a natural im- 
munity from that belligerent infliction. In a little 
while, he became known among them by an Indian 
name signifying " the bald chief," — " a soubriquet," 
observes the Captain, "for which I can find no parallel 
in history since the days of ' Charles the Bald.' " 

Captain Bonneville slept in the lodge of the venerable 
patriarch, who had evidently conceived a most disinter- 
ested affection for him, as was shown on the following 
morning. The travellers, invigorated by a good supper 
and ' ' fresh from the bath of repose, ' ' were about to re- 
sume their journey, when this affectionate old chief took 
the Captain aside, to let him know how much he loved 
him. Asa proof of his regard, he had determined to 
give him a fine horse, which would go further than 
words, and put his good-will bej^ond all question. So 
saying, he made a signal, and forthwith a beautiful 
young horse of a brown colour was led, prancing and 
snorting, to the place. Captain Bonneville was suit- 
ably affected by this mark of friendship; but his ex- 
perience in what is proverbially called "Indian giving " 
made him aware that a parting pledge was necessary 
on his own part, to prove that his friendship was re- 
ciprocated. He accordingly placed a handsome rifle in 
the hands of the venerable chief, whose benevolent 
heart was evidently touched and gratified by this out- 
ward and visible sign of amity. 

Having now, as he thought, balanced this little ac- 
count of friendship, the captain was about to shift his 
saddle to this noble gift-horse, when the affectionate 
patriarch plucked him by the sleeve and introduced 
to him a whimpering, whining, leathern-skinned old 



1 66 The Fur Traders 

squaw, that might have passed for an Egyptian miimray 
without drying. "This," said he, "is my wife: she 
is a good wife — I love her verj^ much — she loves the 
horse — she loves him a great deal — she will cry very 
much at losing him. — I do not know how I shall com- 
fort her — and that makes my heart very sore." 

What could the worthy Captain do, to console the 
tender-hearted old squaw, and, peradventure, to save 
the venerable patriarch from a curtain lecture ? He 
bethought himself of a pair of ear-bobs: it was true 
the patriarch's better-half was of an age and appearance 
that seemed to put personal vanity out of the question, 
but when is personal vanity extinct ? The moment he 
produced the glittering ear-bobs, the whimpering and 
whining of the sempiternal beldame was at an end. 
She eagerly placed the precious baubles in her ears, 
and, though as ugly as the Witch of Kndor, went off 
with a sidling gait and coquettish air, as though she 
had been a perfect Semiramis. 

The Captain had now saddled his newly acquired 
steed, and his foot was in the stirrup, when the aflfec- 
tionate patriarch again stepped forward, and presented 
to him a young Pierced-nose, who had a peculiarly 
sulky look. " This," said the venerable chief, " is my 
son: he is very good — a great horseman — he always 
took care of this very fine horse — he brought him up 
from a colt, and made him what he is. — He is very fond 
of this fine horse — he loves him like a brother — his 
heart will be very heavy when this fine horse leaves 
the camp." 

What could the Captain do to reward the youthful 
hope of this venerable pair, and comfort him for the 
loss of his foster-brother, the horse ? He bethought 
him of a hatchet, which might be spared from his slen- 



Down the Columbia 167 

der stores. No sooner did he place the implement in 
the hands of the young hopeful, than his countenance 
brightened up, and he went off rejoicing in his hatchet, 
to the full as much as did his respectable mother in her 
ear-bobs. 

The Captain was now in the saddle, and about to 
start, when the affectionate old patriarch stepped for- 
ward, for the third time, and, while he laid one hand 
gently on the mane of the horse, held up the rifle in 
the other. " This rifle," said he, " shall be my great 
medicine. I will hug it to my heart — I will always 
love it, for the sake of my good friend, the bald-headed 
chief. But a rifle, by itself, is dumb — I cannot make 
it speak. If I had a little powder and ball, I would 
take it out with me, and would now and then shoot a 
deer; and when I brought the meat home to my hungry 
family, I would say — This was killed by the rifle of my 
friend, the bald-headed chief, to whom I gave that very 
fine horse." 

There was no resisting this appeal : the Captain forth- 
with furnished the coveted supply of powder and ball ; 
but at the same time put spurs to his very fine gift- 
horse, to get away from all further manifestation of 
friendship on the part of the affectionate old patriarch 
and his insinuating family. 

Captain Bonneville and his companions had pursued 
their journey a considerable distance down the course 
of Snake River, when an old chief who acted as their 
guide halted on the bank, and recommended that they 
should turn their horses loose to graze, while he sum- 
moned a cousin of his from a group of lodges on the 
opposite side of the stream. His summons was quickly 
answered. An Indian, of an active, elastic form, leaped 
into a light canoe of cottonwood and vigorously ply- 



1 68 The Fur Traders 

ing the paddle, soon shot across the river. Bounding 
on shore, he advanced with a buoyant air and frank 
demeanour, and gave his right hand to each of the 
party in turn. He evinced the usual curiosity to know 
all about the strangers, — whence they came, whither 
they were going, the object of their journey, and the 
adventures they had experienced. He then desired 
the party to await his return, and, springing into his 
canoe, darted across the river. In a little while he re- 
turned, bringing a most welcome supply of tobacco, and 
a small stock of provisions for the road, declaring his 
intention of accompanying the party. 

That night they put up in the hut of a Nez Perce, 
where they were visited by several warriors from the 
other side of the river, friends of the old chief and his 
cousin, who came to have a talk and a smoke with the 
white men. The heart of the good old chief was over- 
flowing with good-will at thus being surrounded by his 
new and old friends, and he talked with more spirit and 
vivacity than ever. The evening passed away in per- 
fect harmony and good-humour, and it was not until a 
late hour that the visitors took their leave and recrossed 
the river. 

In the course of the social and harmonious evening 
just mentioned, one of the Captain's men produced a 
small skin, a great rarity in the eyes of men conversant 
in peltries. It attracted much attention among the 
visitors from beyond the river, who passed it from one 
to the other, examined it with looks of lively admira- 
tion, and pronounced it a great "medicine." 

In the morning, when the Captain and his party were 
about to set off, the precious skin was missing. Search 
was made for it in the hut, but it was nowhere to be 
found; and it was strongly suspected that it had been 



Down the Columbia 169 

purloined by some of the connoisseurs from the other 
side of the river. 

The old chief and his cousin were indignant at their 
friends across the water, and called out for them to 
come over and answer for their shameful conduct. The 
others answered to the call with all the promptitude of 
perfect innocence, and spurned the idea of their being 
capable of such outrage upon any of the Big-hearted 
nation. All were at a loss on whom to fix the crime 
of abstracting the invaluable skin, when by chance the 
eyes of the worthies from beyond the water fell upon 
an unhappy cur, belonging to the owner of the hut. 
He was a gallows-looking dog, but not more so than 
most Indian dogs, who, take them in the mass, are 
little better than a generation of vipers. Be that as it 
may, he was instantly accused of having devoured the 
skin in question. The unfortunate cur was arraigned; 
his thievish looks substantiated his guilt, and he was 
condemned by his judges from across the river to be 
hanged. He was doubly guilty : first, in having robbed 
their good friends, the Big Hearts of the Kast ; secondly, 
in having brought a doubt on the honour of the Nez 
Perce tribe. He was, accordingly, swung aloft, and 
pelted with stones to make his death more certain. 
The sentence of the judges being thoroughly executed, 
the body of the dog was opened, and the intestines 
rigorously scrutinised, but, to the horror of all con- 
cerned, not a particle of the skin was to be found — the 
dog had been unjustly executed! 

It was with the utmost difficulty that the Captain 
and his comrades could calm the party from across the 
river, whose jealousy of their good name now prompted 
them to the most vociferous vindications of their inno- 
cence. The warriors now returned across the river, 



170 The Fur Traders 

the Captain and his comrades proceeded on their jour- 
ney; but the spirits of the communicative old chief 
were for a time completely dampened. He rode in 
silence, except that now and then he would give way 
to a burst of indignation, and exclaim, with a shake of 
the head and a toss of the hand toward the opposite 
shore — " Bad men, very bad men across the river." 

After some time, the countenance of the old chief 
again cleared up, and he fell into repeated conferences, 
in an undertone, with his cousin, which ended in the 
departure of the latter, who, applying the lash to his 
horse, dashed forward and was soon out of sight. In 
fact, they were drawing near to the village of another 
chief, commonly known as the great chief. The cousin 
had been sent ahead to give notice of their approach ; 
a herald appeared as before, bearing a powder-horn, to 
enable them to respond to the intended salute. A 
scene ensued, on their approach to the village, similar 
to that at several other villages. Then came on the 
firing of salutes, and the shaking of hands; for the 
Indians have an idea that it is as indispensable an 
overture of friendship among the whites as smoking 
of the pipe is among the red men. The travellers were 
next ushered to the banquet, where all the choicest 
viands that the village could furnish were served up 
in rich profusion. They were afterwards entertained 
by games and horse-races; indeed, their visit to the 
village seemed the signal for complete festivity. In 
the meantime, a skin lodge had been spread for their 
accommodation, their horses and baggage were taken 
care of, and wood and water supplied in abundance. 

At night a crowd of visitors awaited their appearance, 
all eager for a smoke and a talk. The pipe was immed- 
iately lighted, and the utmost eagerness was evinced 



Down the Columbia 171 

to learn everything respecting the Americans, for whom 
they professed the most fraternal regard. To their in- 
quiries as to the numbers of the people of the United 
States, the Captain assured them that they were as 
countless as the blades of grass in the prairies, and 
that, great as Snake River was, if they were all en- 
camped upon its banks, they would drink it dry in a 
single day. To these and similar statistics, they listened 
with profound attention, and apparently implicit belief. 

The fame of the Captain as a healer of diseases had 
accompanied him to this village, and the great chief 
now entreated him to exert his skill on his daughter, 
who had been for three days racked with pains, which 
the Pierced-nose doctors could not relieve. The Cap- 
tain was touched by the sufferings of the poor girl, for 
she was but about sixteen years of age, and uncom- 
monly beautiful in form and feature. The only diffi- 
culty with the Captain was, that he knew nothing of 
her malady. So, after considering and cogitating for 
some time, he made a desperate dash at a remedy. By 
his directions, the girl was placed in a sort of rude 
vapour-bath, where she was kept until near fainting. 
He then gave her a dose of gunpowder dissolved in 
water, and ordered her to be wrapped in buffalo robes 
and put to sleep under a load of furs and blankets. 
The remedy succeeded : the next morning she was free 
from pain, though extremely languid ; whereupon, the 
Captain prescribed for her a bowl of colt's head broth, 
and that she should be kept for a time on simple diet. 

The great chief was unbounded in his expressions of 
gratitude for the recovery of his daughter. He would 
fain have detained the Captain a long time as his guest, 
but the time for departure had arrived. When the 
Captain's horse was brought for him to mount, the chief 



172 The Fur Traders 

declared that the steed was not worthy of him, and 
sent for one of his best horses, which he presented in 
its stead; declaring that it made his heart glad to 
see his friend so well mounted. He then appointed a 
young Nez Perce to accompany his guests to the next 
village, and " to carry his talk " concerning them; and 
the two parties separated with mutual expressions of 
kindness and feelings of good-will. 

The travellers now traversed a gently undulating 
country, of such fertility that it excited the rapturous ad- 
miration of two of the Captain's followers, a Kentuckian 
and a native of Ohio. They declared that it surpassed 
any land that they had ever seen, and often exclaimed, 
what a delight it would be just to run a plough through 
such a rich and teeming soil, and see it open its boun- 
tiful promise before the share. In their progress, 
they met with several bands of Nez Perces, by whom 
they were invariably treated with the utmost kindness. 
Within seven days they struck the Columbia River at 
Fort Walla-Walla, where they arrived on the 4th of 
March, 1834. 

Fort Walla- Walla was a trading post of the Hudson 
Bay Company, situated just above the mouth of the 
river of the same name, and on the left bank of the 
Columbia. It was built of driftwood, and calculated 
merely for defence against any attack of the natives. 

The great post and fort of the company was Fort Van- 
couver, on the right bank of the Columbia, just above 
the mouth of the Willamette, whither the company 
removed its establishment from Astoria, in 1821, after 
its coalition with the Northwest Company. 

Captain Bonneville and his comrades experienced a 
polite reception from the superintendent, for, however 
hostile the members of the British company may have 



Down the Columbia 173 

been to the enterprises of American traders, they al- 
ways manifested great courtesy and hospitality to the 
traders themselves. 

Captain Bonneville had intended to remain some 
time in this neighbourhood, to form an acquaintance 
with the natives and to collect information, and establish 
connections that might be advantageous in the way of 
trade. The delays, however, which he had experienced 
on his journey obliged him to shorten his sojourn, and 
to set off as soon as possible, so as to reach the rendez- 
vous at the Portneuf at the appointed time. He had 
seen enough to convince him that an American trade 
might be carried on with advantage in this quarter; 
and he determined soon to return with a stronger 
party, more completely fitted for the purpose. 

Accordingly, on the 6th of March, he and his three 
companions, accompanied by their Nez Perce guides, 
set out on their return. They touched again at several 
of the Nez Perce villages, where they had experienced 
such kind treatment on their way down. They were 
always welcomed with cordiality ; and everything was 
done to cheer them on their journey. 

On leaving one of the villages, they were joined by 
a Nez Perce, whose society was welcomed on account 
of the general gratitude and good-will they felt for his 
tribe. He soon proved a heavy clog upon the little 
party, being doltish and taciturn, lazy in the extreme, 
and a huge feeder. His only proof of intellect was in 
shrewdly avoiding all labour, and availing himself of 
the toil of others. 

When meal-time arrived, however, then came his 
season of activity. He no longer hung back and 
waited for others to take the lead, but distinguished 
himself by a brilliancy of onset, and a sustained vigour 



174 The Fur Traders 

and duration of attack, that completely shamed the 
efforts of his competitors — albeit experienced trencher- 
men of no mean prowess. Having, by repeated and 
prolonged assaults, at length completely gorged him- 
self, he would wrap himself up, and lie with the torpor 
of an anaconda, slowly digesting his way to the next 
repast. He was regarded askance, at his meals, as a 
regular kill-crop, destined to waste the substance of the 
party. In fact, nothing but a sense of the obligations 
they were under to his nation induced them to bear 
with such a guest. 



CHAPTER XIX 

she-wee-she; 

AS Captain Bonneville and his men were encamped 
one evening among the hills near Snake River, 
seated before their fire, enjoying a hearty supper, they 
were suddenly surprised by the visit of an uninvited 
guest. He was a ragged, half-naked Indian hunter, 
armed with bow and arrows, and had the carcass of a 
fine buck thrown across his shoulder. Advancing with 
an alert step, and free and easy air, he threw the buck 
on the ground, and, without waiting for an invitation, 
seated himself at their mess, helped himself without 
ceremony, and chatted to the right and left in the live- 
liest and most unembarrassed manner. The travellers 
were at first completely taken by surprise, and could not 
but admire the facility with which this ragged cosmo- 
polite made himself at home among them. While they 
stared he went on, making the most of the good cheer 
upon which he had so fortunately alighted ; and was soon 
elbow deep in " pot luck," and greased from the tip of 
his nose to the back of his ears. 

In the course of his repast, his attention was caught 
by the figure of the gastronome, who, as usual, was 
gorging himself in dogged silence. A droll cut of the 
eye showed either that he knew him of old, or perceived 
at once his characteristics. He immediately made him 
the butt of his pleasantries; and cracked off two or 

175 



176 The Fur Traders 

three good hits, that caused the sluggish dolt to prick 
up his ears, and delighted all the company. From this 
time the uninvited guest was taken into favour; his 
jokes began to be relished; his careless, free, and easy- 
air to be considered singularly amusing; and in the 
end, he was pronounced by the travellers one of the 
merriest companions and most entertaining vagabonds 
they had met with in the wilderness. 

Supper being over, the redoubtable She-wee-she, for 
such was his name, declared his intention of keeping 
company with the party for a day or two, if they had 
no objection ; and by way of backing his self-invitation, 
presented the carcass of the buck as an earnest of his 
hunting abilities. By this time, he had so completely 
effaced the unfavourable impression made by his first 
appearance, that he was made welcome to the camp, 
and the Nez Perce guide undertook to give him lodg- 
ing for the night. The next morning, at break of day, 
he borrowed a gun, and was off among the hills, nor 
was anything more seen of him until a few minutes 
after the party had encamped for the evening, when he 
again made his appearance, in his usual frank, careless 
manner, and threw down the carcass of another noble 
deer, which he had borne on his back for a considerable 
distance. 

This evening he was the life of the party, and his 
open, communicative disposition, free from all disguise, 
soon put them in possession of his history. He had 
been a kind of prodigal son in his native village; living 
a loose, heedless life, and disregarding the precepts and 
imperative commands of the chiefs. He had, in conse- 
quence, been expelled from the village, but, in nowise 
disheartened at this banishment, had betaken himself 
to the society of the border Indians, and had led a 



She-wee-she 177 

careless, haphazard, vagabond life, perfectly consonant 
to his humours; heedless of the future, so long as he 
had wherewithal for the present: and fearing no lack 
of food, so long as he had the implements of the chase, 
and a fair hunting ground. 

Finding him very expert as a hunter, and being 
pleased with his eccentricities, and his strange and 
merry humour. Captain Bonneville fitted him out hand- 
somely as the Nimrod of the party. Meantime the dolt- 
ish Nez Perce, whom the travellers had endeavoured to 
elbow out of their society, could not withstand the ban- 
tering and sharp wit of She-wee-she, for he sat blinking 
like an owl in daylight, when pestered by the flouts and 
peckings of mischievous birds. At length his place was 
found vacant at meal-time; he was seen no more; and 
the vast surplus that remained when the repast was 
over, showed what a mighty gormandiser had departed. 

Relieved from this incubus, the little party now went 
on cheerily. She-wee-she kept them in fun as well as 
food. His hunting was always successful; he was ever 
ready to render any assistance in the camp or on the 
march; while his jokes, his antics, and the very cut of 
his countenance, so full of whim and comicality, kept 
every one in good-humour. 

Near some Nez Perce lodges one day. She-wee-she 
took a sudden notion to visit his people, and show off 
the state of worldly prosperity to which he had attained. 
Accordingly, arrayed in hunter's style, and well ap- 
pointed with everything befitting his vocation, he an- 
ticipated, with chuckling satisfaction, the surprise he 
was about to give those who had ejected him from their 
society in rags. But when he rejoined the party in 
the evening, he came skulking into camp like a beaten 
cur with his tail between his legs. All his finery was 



178 The Fur Traders 

gone; he was naked as when he was born, with the 
exception of a scanty flap that answered the purpose of 
a fig-leaf. His fellow-travellers at first did not know 
him; but when they recognised in this forlorn object 
their prime wag, She-wee-she, they could not contain 
their merriment, but hailed him with loud and repeated 
peals of laughter. 

She-wee-she was not of a spirit to be easily cast 
down; he soon joined in the merriment as heartily as 
any one, and seemed to consider his reverse of fortune 
an excellent joke. Captain Bonneville, however, 
thought proper to check his good-humour, and de- 
manded, with some degree of sternness, the cause of 
his altered condition. He replied in the most natural 
and self-complacent style imaginable, "that he had 
been among his cousins, who were very poor; they had 
been delighted to see him; still more delighted with 
his good fortune; they had taken him to their arms; 
admired his equipments; one had begged for this; an- 
other for that " — in fine, what with the poor devil's in- 
herent heedlessness, and the real generosity of his 
disposition, his needy cousins had succeeded in strip- 
ping him of all his clothes and accoutrements. 

He was accordingly left to shift for himself in his 
naked condition ; which, however, did not seem to give 
him any concern, or to abate one jot of his good-humour. 
In the course of his lounging about the camp, however, 
he got possession of a deer-skin; whereupon, cutting a 
slit in the middle, he thrust his head through it, so that 
the two ends hung down before and behind. These ends 
he tied together, under the armpits ; and thus arrayed, 
presented himself once more before the Captain, with 
an air of perfect self-satisfaction, as though he thought 
it impossible for any fault to be found with his toilet. 



She-wee-she 1 79 

A little further journeying brought the travellers to 
the petty village of Nez Perces, governed by the worthy 
and affectionate old patriarch who had made Captain 
Bonneville the costly present of the very fine horse. 
The old man welcomed them once more to his village 
with his usual cordiality, and his respectable squaw 
and hopeful son, cherishing grateful recollections of 
the hatchet and ear-bobs, joined in a chorus of friendly 
congratulation. 

As the much-vaunted steed, once the joy and pride 
of this interesting family, was now nearly knocked out 
by travelling, and totally inadequate to the mountain 
scramble that lay ahead, Captain Bonneville restored 
him to the venerable patriarch, with renewed acknow- 
ledgments for the invaluable gift. Somewhat to his 
surprise, he was immediately supplied with a fine two- 
year-old colt in his stead, a substitution which, he 
afterwards learnt, according to Indian custom in such 
cases, he might have claimed as a matter of right. 

On the second day after leaving the patriarch's, the 
party moved along slowly. She- wee- she, for the greater 
part of the time, trudged on foot over the snow, keep- 
ing himself warm by hard exercise and all kinds of 
crazy capers. In the height of his foolery, the patri- 
archal colt, which, unbroken to the saddle, was suf- 
fered to follow on at large, happened to come within 
his reach. In a moment he was on its back, snapping 
his fingers, and yelping with delight. The colt, un- 
used to such a burden, and half-wild by nature, fell 
to prancing and rearing, and at length set o£f at full 
speed over the most dangerous ground. 

As the route led generally along the steep and 
craggy sides of the hills, both horse and horseman 
were constantly in danger. Nothing, however, could 



i8o The Fur Traders 

daunt this madcap savage. He stuck to the colt like 
a plaster, up ridges, down gullies, whooping and yell- 
ing with the wildest glee. His companions followed 
him with their eyes, sometimes laughing, sometimes 
holding their breath at his vagaries, until they saw 
the colt make a sudden plunge and pitch his rider 
headlong over a precipice. There was a general cry 
of horror, and all hastened to the spot. They found 
the poor fellow lying among the rocks below, sadly 
bruised and mangled. Even in this condition, his 
merry spirit was not entirely quelled, and he sum- 
moned up a feeble laugh at the alarm and anxiety of 
those who came to his relief. He was extricated from 
his rocky bed, and stretched upon buffalo skins, the 
Captain proceeding to examine his wounds. The 
principal one was a long and deep gash in the thigh, 
which reached to the bone. Calling for a needle and 
thread, the Captain now prepared to sew up the wound, 
warning the patient to submit to the operation with 
becoming fortitude. His gaiety was at an end; he 
could no longer summon up even a forced smile; and, 
at the first puncture of the needle, flinched so pite- 
ously that the Captain was obliged to pause, and to 
order him a powerful dose of alcohol. 

When the wound was fairly closed, the Captain 
washed it with rum, and administered a second dose 
of the same to the patient, who was tucked in for the 
night, and advised to compose himself to sleep. He 
was restless and uneasy, however; repeatedly express- 
ing his fears that his leg would be so much swollen 
the next day as to prevent his proceeding with the 
party ; nor could he be quieted until the Captain gave 
a decided opinion favourable to his wishes. 

Early the next morning, a gleam of his merry 



She-wee-she 1 8 1 

humour returned when he found that his wounded 
limb retained its natural proportions. On attempting 
to use it, however, he found himself unable to stand. 
He made several efforts to coax himself into a belief 
that he might still continue forward; but at length 
shook his head despondingly, and said that "as he 
had but one leg, ' ' it was all in vain to attempt a pass- 
age of the mountain. 

Every one grieved to part with so boon a com- 
panion, and under such disastrous circumstances. He 
was once more clothed and equipped, each one making 
him some parting present. He was then helped on a 
horse, which Captain Bonneville presented to him; 
and after many parting expressions of good-will on 
both sides, set oft' on his return to his old haunts; 
doubtless to be plucked once more by his affectionate 
but needy cousins. 

Nothing particularly worthy of note occurred during 
several days as the party proceeded up along Snake 
River and across its tributary streams. 

On the 1 2th of May Captain Bonneville reached the 
Portneuf River, in the vicinity of which he had left 
the winter encampment of his company on the preced- 
ing Christmas daJ^ He had then expected to be back 
by the beginning of March, but circumstances had de- 
tained him upwards of two months beyond the time, 
and the winter encampment must long ere this have 
been broken up. It was not until the ist of June that 
he found some of his men, and learnt that the whole 
party which he had left in the preceding month of 
December were encamped on Blackfoot River, a tribu- 
tary of Snake River, not very far above the Portneuf. 
Thither he proceeded with all possible despatch, and 
in a little while had the pleasure of finding himself 



1 82 The Fur Traders 

once more surrounded by his people, who greeted his 
return among them in the heartiest manner; for his 
long-protracted absence had convinced them that he 
and his three companions had been cut off by some 
hostile tribe. 

After two days of festive indulgence, Captain Bonne- 
ville broke up the encampment, and set out with his 
motley crew of hired and free trappers, half-breeds, 
Indians, and squaws, for the main rendezvous in Bear 
River Valley. There he found his exploring party, 
sent out the year before under Mr. Walker, already 
encamped and awaiting him, and with a thrilling tale 
of adventure to relate. 

It had been on the 24th of July in the preceding year 
(1833) that the brigade of forty men set out from the 
Green River Valley, ostensibly to explore the Great 
Salt Lake, and the resources of Captain Bonneville had 
been tasked to the utmost to furnish it a complete 
equipment. Near the northern end of the lake they 
stopped until they had laid in a supply of dried buffalo 
meat and venison, and then they took a westerly course 
through the desert region to the sinks of the Humboldt 
River. There, being much annoyed by the thefts of the 
Digger Indians, — otherwise a harmless and friendly 
race, — the trappers wantonly killed several and then 
fired upon a crowd, leaving about forty dead on the field. 

With great suffering and with many di£Bculties they 
crossed the Sierras, and, from their descriptions, they 
may have been the first to descend the Yosemite Valley. 
Soon after this they reached San Francisco Bay, and 
on the 20th of November, they caught sight of the 
Pacific. There, too, they met the Boston ship Ladoga, 
purchasing from its captain with their furs a stock of 
provisions, of which they stood in great need. 



She-wee-she 183 

The wandering band of trappers were well received 
at Monterey; the inhabitants were desirous of retain- 
ing them among them, and offered extravagant wages 
to such as were acquainted with any mechanic art. 
When they went into the country, too, they were 
kindly treated by the priests at the mission. They 
had no lack of provisions; being permitted to kill as 
many as they pleased of the vast herds of cattle that 
grazed the country, on condition, merely, of rendering 
the hides to the owners. They attended bull-fights 
and horse-races; forgot all the purposes of their ex- 
pedition; squandered away, freely, the property that 
did not belong to them ; and, in a word, revelled in a 
perfect fool's paradise. 

The winter slipped quickly away in a round of bull- 
fights, horse-races, and hunts — a paradise compared 
with trapping amongst the mountains. At length, 
lazily, and with the loss of six men, — all mechanics, — 
they took their departure from the sunny scenes of 
California, and slowly began their return trip. To 
avoid the difficulties encountered in crossing the Sierras 
on their outward way, they encircled them around the 
southern end, and then, through the foot-hills on the 
eastern side, the}^ journeyed northward until they 
struck their old trail, along which, in great part, they 
returned to the appointed rendezvous on the Bear 
River, arriving there on June ist, some twenty days 
ahead of Captain Bonneville and his party. When the 
Californians repassed the " Battle " lakes, they encoun- 
tered the same band of Indians as before, only with 
numbers doubled, and, partly through fear, and partly 
from savagery, they repeated the butchery of their 
outward trip. 

The horror and indignation felt by Captain Bonne- 



184 The Fur Traders 

ville at the excesses of the Cahfornian adventurers were 
not participated in by his men; on the contrary, the 
events of that expedition were favourite themes in the 
camp. The heroes of Monterey bore the palm in all 
the gossipings among the hunters. Their glowing de- 
criptionsofSpanish bear-baits and bull-fightsespecially, 
were listened to with intense delight; and had another 
expedition to California been proposed, the difi&culty 
would have been to restrain a general eagerness to 
volunteer. 

The various bands of Captain Bonneville's company 
had now been assembled for some time at the rendez- 
vous. Their horses, as well as themselves, had re- 
covered from past famine and fatigue, and were again 
fit for active service; and an impatience began to mani- 
fest itself among the men once more to take the field, 
and set off on some wandering expedition. At this 
juncture Mr. Cerre arrived at the rendezvous at the 
head of a supply party, bringing goods and equipments 
from the States. This active leader, it will be recol- 
lected, had embarked the year previously in skin-boats 
on the Big Horn, freighted with the year's collection 
of peltries. 

The Captain now made his arrangements for the 
current year. Cerre and Walker, with a number of 
men who had been to California, were to proceed to 
St. lyouis with the packages of furs collected during 
the past year. Another party, headed by a leader 
named Montero, was to proceed to the Crow country, 
trap upon its various streams, and among the Black 
Hills, and thence to proceed to Arkansas, where he 
was to go into winter quarters. 

The Captain marked out for himself a widely difier- 
ent course. He intended to make another expedition, 



She-wee-she 185 

with twenty-three men, to the lower part of the Co- 
lumbia River, and to proceed to the valley of the Wil- 
lamette ; after wintering in those parts, and establishing 
a trade with those tribes, among whom he had sojourned 
on his first visit, he would return in the spring, cross 
the Rocky Mountains, and join Montero and his party 
in the month of July, at the rendezvous of the Arkan- 
sas; where he expected to receive his annual supplies 
from the States. 

Just as the different parties were about to set out on 
the 3d of July, on their opposite routes, Captain 
Bonneville received intelligence that Wyeth,* the in- 

' Nathaniel Jarvis Wyeth was a successful business man in 
Cambridge, Massachusetts, when his attention was called to 
the Oregon Question, and his interest deeply roused in the 
Oregon region by the visionary enthusiast, Hugh J. Kelly, a 
Boston schoolmaster. 

Wyeth at first thought to join fortunes with Kelly, who was 
then forming his Oregon Organisation Society ; but he quickly 
found that Kelly's eloquence never reached the sticking-point, 
and that, if he were to accomplish anything, he must act by 
himself. Accordingly, having gathered some twenty recruits 
and bound them together by a strong compact, he left Boston 
during March, 1832, and, with some gains and losses among 
his followers, he reached the frontier town of Independence. 

The confidence and courage of Wyeth's men had already 
been badly shaken by contact with M'Kenzie, who was down 
from Fort Union, and by contrast with Sublette's thorough 
knowledge of the mountain business. In fact, the enterprise 
would have been abandoned at Independence had not W. L. 
Sublette taken them in charge, readily seeing that he had 
nothing to fear from such an inexperienced band, and that in 
time he should most likely absorb both men and outfit into his 
own company. 

They reached the rendezvous at Pierre's Hole, July 8th, 
without accident, where seven of Wyeth's men refused to go 
farther, and returned with W. I,. Sublette's returning party; 



1 86 The Fur Traders 

defatigable leader of the salmon-fishing enterprise, 
who had parted with him about a year previously on 
the banks of the Big Horn, to descend that wild river 
in a bull-boat, was near at hand, with a new-levied 
band of hunters and trappers, and was on his way once 
more to the banks of the Columbia. 

As we take much interest in the enterprise of this 
" Eastern man," and are pleased with his persevering 
spirit, and as his movements are characteristic of life 
in the wilderness, we will, with the reader's permis- 
sion, while Captain Bonneville is breaking up his camp 
and saddling his horses, step back a year in time, and 
a few hundred miles in distance, to the bank of the 

Wyeth and the remaining fourteen went on with Milton G. 
Sublette, who was proceeding westward for the pvirpose of 
trapping and hunting. They witnessed the battle of Pierre's 
Hole and then went on, parting company with Sublette August 
29th, on the Snake River. Wyeth and his men reached the 
Hudson Bay Company's post at Walla Walla October 14th, and 
there, a month later, he disbanded them, having learned during 
a visit to Fort Vancouver that his ship had been wrecked at the 
Society Islands, and he realised that the last hope for his plans 
had gone down with her. " I am now afloat on the great sea 
of life without stay or support." 

Wyeth spent the winter at Fort Vancouver, being well treated 
by the agent of the Hudson Bay Company, and in February he 
set out for the East with a trading party bound from the post 
to the Flathead Indians. From their country he made his 
way, with one man from his original party, to a point near the 
Henry River, where he met Captain Bonneville and proposed a 
hunt as far as the Spanish settlements in California. This was 
agreed to, but for some unknown reason Walker lead that ex- 
pedition instead of Wyeth, and Wyeth went directly home, 
joining the east-bound parties from the Green River rendez- 
vous, and returning through South Pass and by his famous 
bull-boat down the Big Horn and the Yellowstone to Fort 
Union, described in the next chapter, and thence to St. Louis, 



She-wee-she 187 

Big Horn, and launch ourselves with Wyeth in his 
bull-boat; and though his adventurous voyage will 
take us many hundreds of miles farther down wild and 
wandering rivers, yet such is the magic power of the 
pen, that we promise to bring the reader safe back to 
Bear River Valley, by the time the last horse is 
saddled. 



CHAPTER XX 

A voyage; in a bui.i.-boat 

IT was about the middle of August (1833) that Mr. 
Wyeth, as the reader may recollect, launched his 
bull-boat at the foot of the rapids of the Big Horn, 
and departed in advance of the parties of Campbell 
and Cerre. His boat was made of three buffalo skins, 
stretched on a light frame, stitched together, and the 
seams payed with elk tallow and ashes. It was eight- 
een feet long, and about five feet six inches wide, sharp 
at each end, with a round bottom, and drew about a 
foot and a half of water; a depth too great for these 
upper rivers, which abound with shallows and sand- 
bars. The crew consisted of two half-breeds, and a Nez 
Perc6 lad of eighteen years of age, a kind of servant of 
all work, whose great aim, like all Indian servants, 
was to do as little work as possible; there was, more- 
over, a half-breed boy, of thirteen, named Baptiste, 
who was travelling with Wyeth to see the world and 
complete his education. Add to these Mr. Milton Sub- 
lette, who went as passenger, and we have the crew of 
the little bull-boat complete. 

It certainl}'' was a slight armament with which to run 
the gauntlet through countries swarming with hostile 
hordes, and a slight bark to navigate those endless 
rivers, tossing and pitching down rapids, running on 
snags and bumping on sand-bars; such, however, were 



A Voyage in a Bull-Boat 189 

the cockle-shells with which those hardy rovers of the 
wilderness would attempt the wildest streams; and it 
was surprising what rough shocks and thumps those 
boats would endure, and what vicissitudes they would 
live through. Milton Sublette was guide of this ad- 
venturous bark; being somewhat experienced in this 
wild kind of navigation. 

At night they landed, hauled up their boat to dry, 
pitched their tent, and made a rousing fire. Then, as 
it was the first evening of their voyage, they indulged 
in a regale, relishing their buffalo beef with inspiring 
alcohol; after which they slept soundly, without dream- 
ing of Crows or Blackfeet. Early in the morning, they 
again launched their boat and committed themselves to 
the stream. 

In this way they voyaged for two days without any 
material occurrence. On the third morning, they de- 
scried some persons at a distance on the river bank. 
As they were now, by calculation, at no great distance 
from Fort Cass, a trading-post of the American Fur 
Company, they supposed these might be some of its 
people. A nearer approach showed them to be Indians, 
Descrying a woman apart from the rest, they landed 
and accosted her. She informed them that the main 
force of the Crow nation, consisting of five bands, 
under their several chiefs, were but about two or three 
miles below, on their way up along the river. This 
was unpleasant tidings, but to retreat was impossible, 
and the river afforded no hiding-place. They con- 
tinued forward, therefore, trusting that, as Fort Cass 
was so near at hand, the Crows might refrain from any 
depredations. 

Floating down about two miles farther, they came in 
sight of the first band, scattered along the river bank, 



IQO The Fur Traders 

all well mounted ; some armed with guns, others with 
bows and arrows, and a few with lances. They made 
a wildly picturesque appearance, managing their horses 
with accustomed dexterity and grace. Nothing can be 
more spirited than a band of Crow cavaliers. They 
are a fine race of men, averaging six feet in height, 
lithe and active, with hawk's eyes and Roman noses. 
The latter feature is common to the Indians on the east 
side of the Rocky Mountains; those on the western 
side have generally straight or flat noses. 

Wyeth would fain have slipped by this cavalcade un- 
noticed ; but the river, at this place, was not more than 
ninety yards across; he was perceived, therefore, and 
hailed by the vagabond warriors. Wyeth landed with 
the best grace in his power, and approached the chief 
of the band. It was Arapooish, whom we have already 
mentioned as being anxious to promote a friendly in- 
tercourse between his tribe and the white men. He 
was a tall, stout man, of good presence, and received 
the voyagers very graciously. His people, too, thronged 
around them, and were officiously attentive after the 
Crow fashion. One took a great fancy to Baptiste, the 
Flathead boy, and a still greater fancy to a ring on his 
finger, which he transposed to his own with surprising 
dexterity, and then disappeared with a quick step 
among the crowd. 

Another was no less pleased with the Nez Perce lad, 
and nothing would do but he must exchange knives 
with him; drawing a new knife out of the Nez Perce's 
scabbard, and putting an old one in its place. Another 
stepped up and replaced this old knife with one still 
older, and a third helped himself to knife, scabbard, 
and all. It was with much difficulty that Wyeth and 
his companions extricated themselves from the clutches 



.^^^n 




MULTNOMAH FALLS 
From a photograph 



A Voyage in a Bull-Boat 191 

of these ofiScious Crows, before they were entirely- 
plucked. 

In this way he was overhauled by several bands, and 
by the time he and his people came out of the busy 
hands of the last, they were eased of most of their 
superfluities. Nothing, in all probability but the 
proximity of the American trading-post kept these 
land pirates from making a good prize of the bull-boat 
and all its contents. 

The last band of Crow warriors had scarce disap- 
peared in the cloud of dust they had raised, when our 
voyagers arrived at the mouth of the river, and glided 
into the current of the Yellowstone. Turning down 
this stream, they made for Fort Cass, which is situated 
on the right bank, about three miles below the Big 
Horn. On the opposite side they beheld a party of 
thirty-one savages, which they soon ascertained to be 
Blackfeet. The width of the river enabled them to 
keep at a sufficient distance, and they soon landed 
at Fort Cass. This was a mere fortification against 
Indians — being a stockade of about one hundred and 
thirty feet square, with two bastions at the extreme 
corners. M'Tulloch, an agent of the American Com- 
pany, was stationed there with twenty men ; two boats 
of fifteen tons burden were lying here ; but at certain 
seasons of the year a steamboat came up to the fort. 

At Fort Cass, Mr. Wyeth disposed of some packages 
of beaver, and a quantity of buffalo robes. On the fol- 
lowing morning (August i8th), he once more launched 
his bull-boat, and proceeded down the Yellowstone, 
which inclined in an east-north-east direction. 

After a time they came in sight of a gang of elk. 
Wyeth was immediately for pursuing them, rifle in 
hand, but saw evident signs of dissatisfaction in his 



192 The Fur Traders 

half-breed hunters, who considered him as trenching 
upon their province, and meddling with things quite 
above his capacity; for these veterans of the wilder- 
ness were exceedingly tenacious of their superior- 
ity, looking down with infinite contempt upon all raw 
beginners. The two worthies, therefore, sallied forth 
themselves, but after a time, returned empty-handed. 
They laid the blame, however, entirely on their guns. 
The next day they tried again and again nothing went 
off but the buffalo. 

Wyeth now found there was danger of losing his 
dinner if he depended upon his hunters; he took rifle 
in hand, therefore, and went forth himself. In the 
course of an hour, he returned laden with buffalo 
meat, to the great mortification of the two regular 
hunters. 

Their voyage was pleasant notwithstanding the perils 
by sea and land, with which they were environed. 
Whenever they could, they encamped on islands, for 
the greater security. If on the mainland, and in a 
dangerous neighbourhood, they would shift their camp 
after dark, leaving their fire burning, dropping down 
the river some distance, and making no fire at their 
second encampment. Sometimes they would float all 
night with the current, one keeping watch and steering 
while the rest slept : in such case, they would haul their 
boat on shore at noon on the following day to dry; for 
notwithstanding every precaution, she was gradually 
getting water-soaked and rotten. 

The two knowing hunters had scarcely recovered 
from one mortification when they were fated to experi- 
ence another. As the boat was gliding swiftly round 
a low promontory, thinly covered with trees, one of 
them gave the alarm of Indians. The boat was in- 



J 



A Voyage in a Bull-Boat 193 

stantly shoved from shore, and every one caught up 
his rifle. ' ' Where are they ? ' ' cried Wyeth. 

' ' There — there ! riding on horseback ! ' ' cried one of 
the hunters. 

" Yes; with white scarfs on! " cried the other. 

Wyeth looked in the direction they pointed, but 
descried nothing but two bald eagles, perched on a low 
dry branch, beyond the thickets, and seeming, from 
the rapid motion of the boat, to be moving swiftly in 
an opposite direction. The detection of this blunder in 
the two veterans, who prided themselves on the sureness 
and quickness of their sight, produced a hearty laugh 
at their expense, and put an end to their vauntings. 

On the 24th of August, the bull-boat emerged, with 
its adventurous crew, into the broad bosom of the 
mighty Missouri. Here, about six miles above the 
mouth of the Yellowstone, the voyagers landed at Fort 
Union, the distributing post of the American Fur Com- 
pany in the western country. It was a stockaded for- 
tress, about two hundred and twenty feet square, 
pleasantly situated on a high bank. Here they were 
hospitably entertained by Mr. M'Kenzie, the super- 
intendent, and remained with him three days, enjoy- 
ing the unusual luxuries of bread, butter, milk, and 
cheese, for the fort was well supplied with domestic 
cattle, though it had no garden. 

As the bull-boat was now nearly worn out, and alto- 
gether unfit for the broader and more turbulent stream 
of the Missouri, it was given up, and a canoe of cotton- 
wood, about twenty feet long, fabricated by the Black- 
feet, was purchased to supply its place. In this Wyeth 
hoisted his sail, and bidding adieu to the hospitable 
superintendent of Fort Union, turned his prow to the 
east, and set o£F down the Missouri. 



194 The Fur Traders 

He had not proceeded many hours, before, in the 
evening, lie came to a large keel boat, at anchor. It 
proved to be the boat of Captain William Sublette, 
freighted with munitions for carrying on a powerful 
opposition to the American Fur Company. 

Here Milton Sublette determined to give up further 
voyaging in the canoe, and remain with his brother; 
accordingly, in the morning, the fellow-voyagers took 
kind leave of each other, and Wyeth continued on his 
course. There was now no one on board of his boat 
that had ever voyaged on the Missouri ; it was, how- 
ever, all plain sailing down the stream, without any 
chance of missing the way. 

All day the voyagers pulled gently along, and 
landed in the evening and supped; then re-embarking, 
they suffered the canoe to float down with the current, 
taking turns to watch and sleep. 

The voyagers were now out of range of the Crows 
and the Blackfeet; but they were approaching the 
country of the Aricaras; a tribe no less dangerous, 
who were, generally, hostile to small parties. 

In passing through their country, Wyeth laid by all 
day, and drifted quietly down the river at night. In 
this way he passed on, until he supposed himself safely 
through the region of danger, when he resumed his 
voyaging in the open day. On the 3d of September 
he had landed, at midday, to dine; and while some 
were making a fire, one of the hunters mounted a high 
bank to look out for game. Instead of game he dis- 
covered a group of twenty-one lodges; and, from the 
number of horses, computed that there must be nearly 
a hundred Indians encamped there. They now drew 
their boat, with all speed and caution, into a thicket 
of water willows, and remained closely concealed all 



A Voyage in a Bull-Boat 195 

day. As soon as the night closed in they re-embarked. 
The moon would rise early ; so that they had but about 
two hours of darkness to get past the camp. The 
night, however, was cloudy, with a blustering wind. 
Silently, and with mufiBed oars, they glided down 
the river, keeping close under the shore opposite to 
the camp, watching its various lodges and fires, and the 
dark forms passing to and fro between them. Sud- 
denly, on turning a point of land, they found them- 
selves close upon a camp on their own side of the 
river. It appeared that not more than one half of the 
band had crossed. They were within a few yards of 
the shore; they saw distinctly the savages ^ — some 
standing, some lying round the fire. Horses were 
grazing around. Some lodges were set up; others had 
been sent across the river. The red glare of the fires 
upon these wild groups and harsh faces, contrasted 
with the surrounding darkness, had a startling effect, 
as the voyagers suddenly came upon the scene. The 
dogs of the camp perceived them, and barked ; but the 
Indians, fortunately, took no heed of their clamour. 
Wyeth instantly sheered his boat out into the stream : 
when, unluckily, it struck upon a sand-bar, and stuck 
fast. It was a perilous and trying situation; for he 
was fixed between the two camps, and within rifle 
range of both. All hands jumped out into the water, 
and launched their canoe again into deep water, and 
getting in, had the delight of seeing the camp fires of 
the savages soon fading in the distance. 

We forbear to detail all the circumstances and ad- 
ventures of upwards of a month's voyage, down the 
windings and doublings of this vast river; in the 
course of which they stopped occasionally at a post 
of one of the rival fur companies, or at a government 



196 The Fur Traders 

agency for an Indian tribe. At Leavenworth, the 
frontier post of the United States, where Mr. Wyeth 
arrived on the 27th of September, 1833, his first care 
was to have his Nez Perce Indian, and his half-breed 
boy, Baptiste, vaccinated. The sight of a soldier in 
full array, with what appeared to be a long knife glit- 
tering at the end of his musket, struck Baptiste with 
such affright that he took to his heels, and the Nez 
Perce would have followed him, had not Wyeth as- 
sured him of his safety. When they underwent the 
operation of the lancet, the doctor's wife and another 
lady were present — the first white women that they had 
seen ; and they could not keep their eyes off them. On 
returning to the boat, they recounted to their com- 
panions all that they had observed at the fort; but 
were especially eloquent about the white squaws, who, 
they said, were white as snow, and more beautiful than 
any human being they had ever beheld. 

We shall not accompany Mr. Wyeth any farther in 
his voyage; but will simply state that he made his 
way to Boston, where he succeeded in organising an 
association under the name of * ' The Columbia River 
Fishing and Trading Company," for his original 
objects of a salmon fishery and a trade in furs. A 
brig, the May Dacre, had been despatched for the 
Columbia with supplies; and he was now on his way 
to the same point, at the head of sixty men, whom he 
had enlisted at St. Louis; some of whom were experi- 
enced hunters, and all more habituated to the life of 
the wilderness than his first band of " down-easters." 

We will now return to Captain Bonneville and his 
party, whom we left making up their packs and 
saddling their horses, in Bear River Valley. 



CHAPTER XXI 

FAREWELI. TO THE MOUNTAINS 

IT was the 3d of July that Captain Bonneville set out 
on his second visit to the banks of the Columbia, 
at the head of twenty-three men. He travelled leisurely, 
to keep his horses fresh, until, on the loth of July, a 
scout brought word that Wyeth, with his band, was 
but fift)^ miles in the rear, and pushing forward with 
all speed. This caused some bustle in the camp; for 
it was important to get first to the buffalo ground to 
secure provisions for the journey. 

In the course of the next few days Wyeth rode ahead 
of his part3% and overtook Captain Bonneville. Their 
meeting was friendly and courteous; and they discussed 
sociably their respective fortunes since they separated 
on the banks of the Big Horn. 

In Wyeth's company were travelling two men of 
science — Mr. Nuttall, the botanist, the same who as- 
cended the Missouri at the time of the expedition to 
Astoria; and Mr. Townshend, the ornithologist. Also 
there were three missionaries, bound to the shores of 
the Columbia, to spread the light of the Gospel in that 
fair wilderness. 

After riding for some time together, in friendly con- 
versation, Wyeth returned to his party, and Captain 
Bonneville continued to press forward, and to gain 
ground. His scouts soon after brought word of a huge 

197 



198 The Fur Traders 

herd of buffalo, and led the party to a plain that was 
for the next two days to witness all the scenes of a 
great buffalo hunt and the attendant curing and stow- 
ing away of the meat. 

By this time Wyeth's party was in sight, and 
Wyeth himself came in the evening to pay Captain 
Bonneville a visit. He was accompanied by Captain 
Stewart, the amateur traveller, who had not yet sated 
his appetite for the adventurous life of the wilderness. 
With him, also, was a Mr. M'Kay, a half-breed, son of 
the unfortunate adventurer of the same name who 
came out in the first maritime expedition to Astoria 
and was blown up in the Tonquin. His son had grown 
up in the employ of the British fur companies; and 
was a prime hunter and a daring partisan. He held, 
moreover, a farm in the valley of the Willamette. 

The Captain now set to work with his men to prepare 
a suitable entertainment for his guests. It was a time 
of plenty in the camp; of prime hunters' dainties, — of 
buffalo humps, and buffalo tongues, and roasted ribs, 
and broiled marrow-bones: all these were cooked in 
hunters' style, served up with a profusion known only 
on a plentiful hunting ground, and discussed with an 
appetite that would astonish the puny gourmands of 
the cities. But above all, and to give a bacchanalian 
grace to this truly masculine repast, the Captain pro- 
duced a mellifluous keg of home-brewed nectar. 

Early in the morning, Captain Bonneville ordered 
the half-dried meat to be packed upon the horses, and 
leaving Wyeth and his party to hunt the scattered 
buffalo, pushed off rapidly to regain the trail. On 
reaching the Columbia, Captain Bonneville hoped to 
open a trade with the natives, for fish and other pro- 
visions, but to his surprise, they kept aloof, and even 



Farewell to the Mountains 199 

hid themselves on his approach. He soon discovered 
that they were under the influence of the Hudson Bay 
Company, who had forbidden them to trade, or hold 
any communion with him. He proceeded along the 
Columbia, but it was everywhere the same; not an 
article of provisions was to be obtained from the natives, 
and he was, at length, obliged to kill a couple of his 
horses to sustain his famishing people. 

To advance under present circumstances would be to 
court starvation. The resources of the country were 
locked against them bj^ the influence of a jealous and 
powerful monopoly. But by hastening their return, 
they would be able to reach the Blue Mountains just 
in time to find the elk, the deer, and the bighorn; and 
after they had supplied themselves with provisions, 
they might push through the mountains, before they 
were entirely blocked up by snow. Influenced by 
these considerations, Captain Bonneville reluctantly 
turned his back a second time on the Columbia, and 
set off for the Blue Mountains. He took his course up 
John Day's River, so called from one of the hunters in 
the original Astorian enterprise. 

It was the 20th of October when they found them- 
selves once more upon the banks of the Snake; but it 
was not until the travellers reached the headwaters of 
the Portneuf that they really found themselves in a 
region of abundance. Here two horsemen reached 
camp from Montero's party; which had been sent to 
beat up the Crow country and the Black Hills, and to 
winter on the Arkansas. The Captain retained the 
messengers with him until the 17th of November, when, 
having reached the caches on Bear River, and procured 
thence the required supplies, he sent them back to their 
party; appointing a rendezvous towards the last of June 



200 The Fur Traders 

following, on the forks of Wind River Valley, in the 
Crow country. 

Game continued to abound throughout the winter; 
and the camp was overstocked with provisions. Beef 
and venison, humps and haunches, buffalo tongues and 
marrow-bones, were constantly cooking at every fire; 
and the whole atmosphere was redolent with the savoury 
fumes of roast meat. 

The mountain business was already on its downhill 
road; none of the companies had made more than 
enough to pay their men, and an air of gloom had per- 
vaded the annual (1834) rendezvous. Much to Wyeth's 
astonishment, when he reached that gathering, the 
goods which he had contracted to bring up for the 
Rocky Mountain Fur Company were refused by those 
honourable gentlemen — in fact, that body was on the 
point of dissolution, and was actually succeeded a 
month later (July 20th), by the new firm of Fitzpatrick, 
Sublette, and Bridger. 

Meantime, Wyeth, finding himself encumbered with 
a quantity of goods which he had expected to be rid of 
at Green River, built a fort as soon as he reached Snake 
River, named it Fort Hall, and, having deposited there 
his surplus goods in the care of eleven men, he pro- 
ceeded, reaching Fort Vancouver September 14, 1834, 
The brig May Dacre arrived next day, three months 
behind her schedule, and quite too late for the fishing 
season. 

In spite of Wyeth's great efforts, however, his busi- 
ness did not prosper. "I was impressed," wrote an 
intelligent traveller,' "with the belief that he was, be- 
yond comparison, the most talented business man from 
the States that ever established himself in Oregon. 
' T. J. Farnham, Travels in the Western Prairies. 



Farewell to the Mountains 201 

But in pursuance of the avowed doctrine of the Hudson 
Bay Company that no others have a right to trade in 
furs beyond the Rockj' Mountains, whilst the use of 
capital and perseverance and their incomparable skill 
can prevent it, they established a fort near his at Fort 
Hall, preceded him, followed him, surrounded him 
everywhere, and cut the throat of his prosperity with 
such kindness and politeness that Wyeth was induced 
to sell his whole interest in Oregon to his generous, 
but too skilful and powerful antagonist." Like Astor, 
Wyeth failed through causes, partly international, over 
which an individual had no control. 

The winter at last broke up, the snows melted from 
the hills and from the lower parts of the mountains, 
and the time for decamping arrived. Captain Bonne- 
ville despatched a part}^ to the caches, who brought 
away all the efifects concealed there, and on the ist of 
April (1835), the camp was broken up, and every one 
on the move. Captain Bonneville and his party passed 
by Ham's Fork, and reached the Green River without 
accident, on the banks of which they remained during 
the residue of the spring. 

On the loth of June the party were a little to the 
east of Wind River Mountains, where they halted for 
a time in excellent pasturage, to give their horses a 
chance to recruit their strength for a long journey; for 
it was Captain Bonneville's intention to shape his course 
to the settlements; having already been detained by 
the complication of his duties, and by various losses 
and impediments, far beyond the time specified in his 
leave of absence. 

While the party was thus reposing a solitary free 
trapper rode one day into the camp, and accosted Cap- 
tain Bonneville. He belonged, he said, to a party of 



202 The Fur Traders 

thirty hunters, who had just passed through the neigh- 
bourhood, but whom he had abandoned in consequence 
of their ill treatment of a brother trapper, whom they 
had cast off from their part}-, and left with his bag and 
baggage, and an Indian wife into the bargain, in the 
midst of a desolate prairie. The horseman gave a 
piteous account of the situation of this helpless pair, 
and solicited the loan of horses to bring them and their 
effects to the camp. 

The Captain was not a man to refuse assistance 
to any one in distress; horses were immediately de- 
spatched, with an escort, to aid the unfortunate couple. 
The next day, they made their appearance with all 
their effects: the man, a stalwart mountaineer, with a 
peculiarly game look; the woman, a young Blackfoot 
beauty, arrayed in the trappings and trinketry of a free 
trapper's bride. 

Captain Bonneville drew from the Indian woman her 
whole story. 

" I was the wife," said she, "of a Blackfoot warrior, 
and I served him faithfully. Who was so well served 
as he ? Whose lodge was so well provided, or kept so 
clean ? I brought wood in the morning, and placed 
water always at hand. I watched for his coming ; and 
he found his meat cooked and ready. If he rose to go 
forth, there was nothing to delay him. I searched the 
thought that was in his heart, to save him the trouble 
of speaking. When I went abroad on errands for him, 
the chiefs and warriors smiled upon me, and the young 
braves spoke soft things in secret ; but my feet were in 
the straight path, and my eyes could see nothing but 
him. 

' ' When he went out to hunt, or to war, who aided 
to equip him but I ? When he returned, I met him 



Farewell to the Mountains 203 

at the door; I took his gun; and he entered without 
further thought. While he sat and smoked, I un- 
loaded his horses; tied them to the stakes; brought in 
their loads, and was quickly at his feet. If his moc- 
casins were wet, I took them off and put on others 
which were dry and warm. I dressed all the skins he 
had taken in the chase. He could never say to me, 
why is it not done ? He hunted the deer, the antelope, 
and the buffalo, and he watched for the enemy. Every- 
thing else was done by me. When our people moved 
their camp, he mounted his horse and rode away; free 
as though he had fallen from the skies. He had 
nothing to do with the labour of the camp; it was I 
that packed the horses, and led them on the journey. 
When we halted in the evening, and he sat with the 
other braves and smoked, it was I that pitched his 
lodge ; and when he came to eat and sleep, his supper 
and his bed were ready. 

" I served him faithfully ; and what was my reward ? 
A cloud was always on his brow, and sharp lightning 
on his tongue. I was his dog; and not his wife. 

" Who was it that scarred and bruised me ? It was 
he. My brother saw how I was treated. His heart 
was big for me. He begged me to leave my tyrant and 
fly. Where could I go ? If retaken, who would pro- 
tect me ? My brother was not a chief ; he could not 
save me from blows and wounds, perhaps death. At 
length I was persuaded. I followed my brother from 
the village. He pointed the way to the Nez Perces, 
and bade me go and live in peace among them. We 
parted. On the third day I saw the lodges of the Nez 
Perces before me. I paused for a moment, and had no 
heart to go on; but my horse neighed, and I took it as 
a good sign, and suffered him to gallop forward. In a 



204 The Fur Traders 

little while I was in the midst of the lodges. As I sat 
silent on my horse, the people gathered round me, and 
inquired whence I came. I told my story. A chief 
now wrapped his blanket close around him, and bade 
me dismount. I obeyed. He took my horse to lead 
him away. My heart grew small within me. I felt, 
on parting with my horse, as if my last friend was gone. 
I had no words, and my eyes were dry. As he led off 
my horse, a young brave stepped forward. 'Are you a 
chief of the people ? ' cried he. 'Do we listen to you in 
council, and follow you in battle ? Behold ! a stranger 
flies to our camp from the dogs of Blackfeet, and asks 
protection. I^et shame cover your face ! The stranger 
is a woman, and alone. If she were a warrior, or had 
a warrior by her side, 5^our heart would not be big 
enough to take her horse. But he is yours. By the 
right of war 3'ou may claim him; but look ! ' — his bow 
was drawn, and the arrow ready! — 'you never shall 
cross his back ! ' The arrow pierced the heart of the 
horse, and he fell dead. 

"An old woman said she would be my mother. She 
led me to her lodge : my heart was thawed by her kind- 
ness, and my eyes burst forth with tears; like the 
frozen fountains in spring-time. She never changed; 
but as the days passed away, was still a mother to me. 
The people were loud in praise of the young brave, and 
the chief was ashamed. I lived in peace. 

"A party of trappers came to the village, and one of 
them took me for his wife. This is he. I am very 
happy; he treats me with kindness, and I have taught 
him the language of my people. As we were travel- 
ling this way, some of the Blackfeet warriors beset us, 
and carried off the horses of the party. We followed, 
and my husband held a parley with them. The guns 



Farewell to the Mountains 205 

were laid down, and the pipe was lighted; but some of 
the white men attempted to seize the horses by force, 
and then a battle began. The snow was deep; the 
white men sank into it at every step; but the red men, 
with their snow-shoes, passed over the surface like birds, 
and drove off many of the horses in sight of their own- 
ers. With those that remained we resumed our jour- 
ney. At length words took place between the leader 
of the party and my husband. He took away our 
horses, which had escaped in the battle, and turned us 
from his camp. My husband had one good friend 
among the trappers. That is he ' ' (pointing to the man 
who had asked assistance for them). " He is a good 
man. His heart is big. When he came in from hunt- 
ing, and found that we had been driven away, he gave 
up all his wages, and followed us, that he might speak 
good words for us to the white Captain." 

On the 22d of June, Captain Bonneville raised his 
camp, and moved to the forks of Wind River, the ap- 
pointed place of rendezvous. In a few days, he was 
joined there by the brigade of Montero. 

The united parties now celebrated the 4th of July, in 
rough hunters' style, with hearty conviviality; after 
which Captain Bonneville made his final arrangements, 
lycaving Montero with a brigade of trappers to open 
another campaign, he put himself at the head of the 
residue of his men, and set off on his return to civilised 
life, journeying along the course of the Platte from 
point to point until he and his band reached the fron- 
tier settlements on the 22d of August, 1835. 

Here his cavalcade might have been taken for a pro- 
cession of tatterdemalion savages; for the men were 
ragged almost to nakedness, and had contracted a wild- 
ness of aspect during three years of wandering in the 



2o6 The Fur Traders 

wilderness. A few hours in a populous town, however, 
produced a magical change. Hats of the most ample 
brim and longest nap; coats with buttons that shone 
like mirrors, and pantaloons of the most ample fulness, 
took the place of the well-worn trapper's equipments; 
and the happy wearers strolled about in all directions, 
scattering their silver like sailors just from a cruise. 

The worthy Captain, however, by no means shared 
the excitement of his men, on finding himself once 
more in the thronged resorts of civilised life ; but, on 
the contrary, looked back to the wilderness with re- 
gret. " To those of us," said he, " whose whole lives 
had been spent in the stirring excitement and perpetual 
watchfulness of adventures in the wilderness, the 
change was far from promising an increase of that con- 
tentment and inward satisfaction most conducive to 
happiness. ' ' 

It was in the autumn of 1835, at the country seat of 
Mr. John Jacob Astor, the father of the fur trade on 
American soil, that Mr. Irving first met Captain Bonne- 
ville, who was then j ust returned from a residence of 
upwards of three years among the mountains, and was 
on his way to report himself at headquarters in the 
hope of being reinstated in the service. " By the Eter- 
nal, sir! " President Jackson is said to have exclaimed, 
when Bonneville showed him his map, "I '11 see that 
you are reinstated to your command. For this valu- 
able service to the War Department and the country 
you deserve high promotion." ' 

' In his later career, Bonneville served in the Seminole and 
Mexican wars, being made Lieutenant-Colonel for gallant and 
meritorious service at Contreras and Churubusco. At the close 
of the Civil War he was breveted Brigadier-General. He died 
at Fort Smith, June 12, 1878. 



Farewell to the Mountains 207 

His wanderings in the wilderness, while they had 
gratified his curiosity and his love of adventure, had 
not much benefited his fortunes. In fact, he was too 
much of a frank, free-hearted soldier to make a schem- 
ing trapper or a thrifty bargainer. He was popular 
with his men, and a great favourite with the free trap- 
pers and Indians, who, however, sold their furs in the 
other camp. It was to his credit, too, that he lost not 
a man from his company at a time when hunters and 
trappers perished in considerable numbers from rival 
companies. 



CHAPTER XXII 

THE LAST OF THE COMPANIES 

THE career of Captain Bonneville in the mountains 
was typical of a great number of independent 
attempts to secure a foothold there and win some share 
in the fur trade. It met, too, the fate of all such in- 
dividual efforts in the face of thorough organisation, 
experience, and a capital large enough to withstand 
temporary losses. Captain Bonneville, moreover, could 
not equal the underhand tricks of the experienced par- 
tisan; in fact, he failed whenever he tried anything of 
the kind. But he gathered about him an enthusiastic 
band of men, and welcomed all comers with lavish 
hospitality. 

We gladly lose sight of the fact that Captain Bonne- 
ville collected few furs in the satisfaction he affords us 
of a glimpse at the wild life of that day through eyes 
that looked kindly and knew sympathy. It did not 
prejudice him, if the free trappers who shared his good 
cheer did not bring him furs. He fairly revelled in the 
fierce, barbaric life about him ; and his camp was the 
cosmopolitan centre of the region. 

The real success of the mountain trade belonged to 
General Ashley and the enterprising young men whom 
he led with him into the wilderness. Their movements 
have been repeatedly referred to in the preceding pages, 
and it is scarcely out of place here to remind the reader 

208 



The Last of the Companies 209 

that after General Ashley returned to St. Louis with so 
large a cargo of beaver skins that it set the wisest of 
the traders agog with excitement, he gratified his long- 
ing for a political life, selling his business to Smith, 
Jackson, and Sublette (1826). They in turn, in 1830, 
disposed of their interests to a younger set of men who 
had distinguished themselves for their ability and 
enterprise. They were Fitzpatrick, M. G. Sublette, 
Fraeb, Gervais, and Bridger. 

Thus the Rocky Mountain Fur Company came into 
existence, in fact as well as in name; and it had as 
partners the most daring and successful leaders who 
were in the mountains during the four years of its ex- 
istence. They devoted their efforts chiefly to obtaining 
beaver skins, and that almost entirely through their 
own trappers rather than in trade. It is reported that 
they shipped to St. Louis within four years over one 
hundred thousand beaver skins of a value in dollars 
five times that number. They dissolved partnership 
at the annual rendezvous in 1834, the time when they 
refused to accept the goods from Wyeth which they 
had ordered. 

By a temporary arrangement, Fitzpatrick, Sublette, 
and Bridger continued the business for a time; but 
Fitzpatrick and Bridger soon took service individually 
with the American Fur Company.' The downfall of 

' Bridger continued in this service until 1843, when he 
founded Fort Bridger for the purpose of provisioning immi- 
grants and repairing their outfits. He was constantly em- 
ployed during the next twenty years as a guide for government 
expeditions, for he had no equal in his knowledge of the great 
mountains. He long outlived even this kind of usefulness, 
settling late in life on a farm near Kansas City, Missouri, 
where he died in 1881. 
14 



2IO The Fur Traders 

the mountain trade was so evidently at hand that it was 
good policy for them to take shelter in the well-estab- 
lished river posts of their great rival. 

The Rocky Mountain Fur Company was a remark- 
able school of exploration. Its various leaders were 
the first to visit the region about the sources of the 
Platte, Green, Yellowstone, and Snake rivers. They 
opened up the country about the Great Salt lyake, and 
penetrated thence into California and Oregon, leaving 
a deep impress on the geography of the West, not alone 
because they discovered so many important rivers, 
passes, and mountains, and gave permanent names to 
them, but because all the maps before 1840 were made 
up entirely from their knowledge. They encountered 
dangers without end, and during twelve years in the 
mountains they lost a hundred men from their number 
by violent death. 



With the downfall of the mountain trade in 1834, 
amid rabid competition and bitter feuds, the American 
Fur Company found itself in a stronger position than 
any of its rivals. It had engaged in the mountain trade 
in order to maintain its prestige and with the hope of 
profit later; but it meanwhile was strengthening its 
foundations and getting its profits from its three strong 
river posts, Fort Union, Fort M'Kenzie, and Fort Cass. 
Over these ruled Kenneth M'Kenzie, the king of the 
U. M. O., the ablest trader in the employ of the 
company. 

The advance up the Missouri had begun as early as 
1828, under the leadership of M'Kenzie; and it con- 
tinued for the next four years, until the posts just 
named were well established, and branches for trade had 



The Last of the Companies 211 

been extended in every direction. All this M'Kenzie 
accomplished, and he strengthened his hold still more 
by persuading the company to build a steamboat with 
which to bring the supplies to the upper river posts. 
The first trip of the Yellowstone on this errand in 1831 
showed the possibilities of this means of communica- 
tion, though the boat did not ascend the river above 
Fort Tecumseh, at the mouth of what is now called the 
Bad River. 

" The voyage of the Yellowstone in 1832 has been a 
landmark in the history of the West. It demonstrated 
the practicability of navigating the Missouri by steam 
as far as to the mouth of the Yellowstone, with a strong 
probability that boats could go on to the Blackfoot 
country. Among the passengers was the artist Catlin, 
whose works have given added celebrity to the voyage. 
The boat left St. Louis March 26, 1832. It made ex- 
tremely slow progress, and did not reach Fort Tecum- 
seh until the 31st of May. Here a delay of six days 
occurred, during which the new fort, built to replace 
the old one, was christened Fort Pierre, in honour of 
the distinguished trader, Pierre Chouteau, Jr., who 
was a passenger on the boat. ' ' ' 

The Yellowstone reached Fort Union on June 17th, 
and then made a quick return voyage, averaging a 
hundred miles a day. It reached St. Louis July 7th. 
The voyage aroused much interest not only in the 
United States but in Europe. Writing from New 
York, Ramsay Crooks thus addressed Mr. Chouteau 
upon the subject: " I congratulate you most cordially 
on your perseverance and ultimate success in reaching 
the Yellowstone by steam; and the future historian 

' Chittenden's History of the American Fur Trade in the 
Far West, p. 340. 



212 The Fur Traders 

will preserve for you the honourable and enviable dis- 
tinction of having accomplished an object of immense 
importance, by exhibiting the practicability of con- 
quering the obstructions of the Missouri, considered 
till almost the present day insurmountable to steam- 
boats even among those best acquainted with their 
capabilities. You have brought the Falls of the Mis- 
souri as near as was the River Platte in my younger 
days." And Mr. Astor, writing from Bellevue, France, 
said to Mr. Chouteau: " Your voyage in the Yellow- 
stone attracted much attention in Europe and has been 
noted in all the papers here." ' 

The Missouri Republican, commenting on the voyage, 
said: " Many of the Indians who had been in the habit 
of trading with the Hudson Bay Company declared 
that the company could no longer compete with the 
Americans, and concluded thereafter to bring all their 
skins to the latter; and said that the British might 
turn out their dogs and burn their sledges, as they 
would no longer be useful while the Fire Boat walked 
on the waters." ^ 

The stress of competition was felt along the Missouri 
as well as in the mountains. In dealing with the In- 
dians, one article — whiskey — had become an absolute 
necessity. It was used without stint or reason by the 
irregular traders, and it commanded the trade with the 
Indians wherever it was placed. Now that Congress, 
in 1832, had forbidden the importation of liquor into 
the Indian country, M'Kenzie found himself at a great 
disadvantage, for he could not readily smuggle a supply 
past the rigid inspection of the military frontier. On 
the other hand, the irresponsible small trader had no 

'Quoted by Captain Chittenden, History of the American 
Fur Trade iti the Far West, p. 341. "^ Ibid., p. 341. 



The Last of the Companies 213 

great difficulty in outwitting the authorities; and once 
he reached the prairies he had nothing more to fear, 
and much to hope for. 

Whiskey it was that M'Kenzie felt he must have, if 
he would maintain the position he had worked so hard 
to attain. True, Congress had said it should not be 
brought among the Indians, but that law did not pre- 
vent its being made there. Accordingly, when the 
Yellowstone came up the river in 1833, she brought 
M'Kenzie, in answer to his order, a complete outfit for 
distilling liquor, and with it several hundred bushels 
of corn, with which to begin its use. 

It was this distillery in full operation that Wyeth and 
Cerre saw when they visited Fort Union in the course 
of their famous bull-boat trip during that same summer 
(1833). They were royally entertained by M'Kenzie; 
but at their departure they were so mulcted for some 
necessary supplies that in anger they reported the vio- 
lation of the law at the first government post. Fort 
Leavenworth. The company had so many enemies 
and M'Kenzie so many rivals that the news spread 
with all the speed of bitter rumour throughout the 
country. The facts were brought up in Congress, and 
it was only by a bit of sharp practice that the com- 
pany's license to trade among the Indians was saved 
from being revoked. 

In saving itself the company made a scapegoat of 
M'Kenzie, whose usefulness was now at an end. They 
promised implicit obedience to all the regulations gov- 
erning the trade with the Indians, and ordered the still 
to be destroyed. M' Kenzie came down the river in the 
summer of 1834. After a trip to Europe and a short 
visit to Fort Union in which to close up his private 
affairs, he settled at St. L^ouis, where he died in 1861. 



214 The Fur Traders 

The year 1834, besides marking the end of the Rocky- 
Mountain Fur Company, the failure of Captain Bonne- 
ville's expedition, and the forced retirement of M'Ken- 
zie from the " U. M. O.," was a momentous year for 
the fur trade in other respects. The staple fur of the 
organised trappers and traders was the beaver, which 
was chiefly used for men's hats. But as early as 1832 
hats were to be seen in the streets of London and Paris 
that were made of silk instead of beaver. In fact, so 
rapidly was this new style introduced that at the time 
of Captain Bonneville's return from the mountains 
(1835) the market for beaver skins had become so dull 
that only the finest quality of skins found sale at a 
profit. 

It was this impending change in the character and 
interests of the fur trade that prompted Mr. Astor to 
dispose of his share in the American Fur Company, 
and retire from active business. He was, as he had 
always been since he incorporated that company in 
1808, the greatest figure in the fur trade — great in 
wealth and greatest in sagacity. In this notable year, 
1834, Mr. Astor sold the Western Department, includ- 
ing the Upper Missouri Outfit, to Pratte, Chouteau, 
and Company, and thus restored to the St. Louis 
traders the control of the Missouri and mountain trafl&c 
which he had wrested from them twelve years before. 

The Northern Department, with its headquarters at 
Mackinac, Mr. Astor sold to Ramsay Crooks of Snake 
River fame, who had for many years been actively con- 
nected with the management of the whole company. 
Mr. Crooks retained the original name of the American 
Fur Company and became its president. He removed 
to New York and managed from there his many busi- 
ness interests. 



The Last of the Companies 215 

After four years, the firm of Pierre Chouteau, Jr. , and 
Company replaced that of Pratte, Chouteau, and Com- 
pany (1838), and it continued to maintain the tradi- 
tional dignity and reputation of the great company 
during the next twenty years. There was always com- 
petition to be subdued by clever tactics that were quite 
as often political as commercial. But the chief concern 
became that of constant readjustment to a constantly 
narrowing field of operation, until, with the death of 
Mr. Crooks in 1859, and of Mr. Chouteau in 1865, or- 
ganised fur trading in the Far West became a thing of 
history. 

Contrary to the general belief, the annual collection 
of furs from the regions described in these pages is to- 
day greater than it was at any time during the best 
years of organised trapping and trading. Many of the 
smaller fur-bearing animals have greatly increased in 
number, for they find plenty of food in the farmers' 
fields, and they thrive well in the half-settled condition 
of the country. On the other hand, the larger wild 
animals have almost disappeared — the beaver from his 
old haunts, the various species of bear and wolves have 
become rare, and the buffalo is practically extinct. 

St. lyouis remains the chief centre of the Western fur 
trade, as it has been from the beginning. The growth 
of St. Paul in this particular trade has been due to the 
changed methods of communication and the taking 
over of the furs that once found sale at Mackinac. The 
furs still reach these centres in large quantities and 
through regular channels of trade; but the pelts are 
secured in the first place by the individual trapper as 
a result of his own enterprise and efforts; and they are 
gathered up largely by individual traders. In Canada, 



2i6 The Fur Traders 

the home of organised fur trading, there are still to be 
seen the fur posts of the Hudson Bay Company and 
its old headquarters at Montreal; but in 1859 its 
monopoly and sovereign rights were taken away from 
it, and it now is exposed to any competition that may 
be raised against it. Its two hundred years of organ- 
isation and monopoly have, however, enabled it to 
maintain a considerable advantage over its rivals, and 
will, doubtless, preserve it for some time to come. 



The famous Oregon Trail, in many ways the most 
noteworthy and remakable road in history, was begun 
and developed by the early fur traders. It was first 
used in parts by the Astorians on their outward and 
returning expeditions, 1811-13. It was straightened 
and extended by General Ashley and his parties, one 
of which discovered South Pass in 1823. Both Bonne- 
ville and Wyeth from 1832-36 traversed every part of 
the Trail to its end at the mouth of the Columbia 
River. Smith in 1826 and Walker in 1833 travelled 
what became the Californian extension of the Trail — 
the road of the " Forty-niners " and the host that came 
after them. 

Some forty miles west of the present Kansas City 
(then Independence) a small sign-post marked the place 
where the Oregon Trail branched off from the old Santa 
Fe road. It bore these words, "Road to Oregon." 
There was nothing about that simple notice to indicate 
to the traveller a journey of 2020 miles, nor that as late 
as 1843 Fort Bridger was one of only four houses or 
stations in that whole distance. 

The trapper was still busy along the Trail when the 
emigrants began to move toward Oregon. His famili- 



The Last of the Companies 217 

arity with the ways and by-ways of the mountains and 
the plains made him a necessity to the travellers and 
settlers. He quickly became engaged in guiding the 
immigrants; he acted as scout for the soldiers; and he 
taught the official " pathfinders," sent tardily after by 
the government, all that they ever " found." 

The spirit of adventure and gain first drew the trap- 
pers and traders into the depths of the wilderness; the 
fascination of the wild life held them there; and in 
Nature's own good time and chance they rested there. 



INDEX 



Aiken, sailor, 21, 22, 

Albatross, 88. 

American Fur Company, x, 

XV, xvi, 7, 25, 101, 138, 210, 

214. 
Arapooish, 142. 
Aricara Indians, x, 43, 147, 

194. 
Ashley, Gen. W. H., xiii, 104, 

146, 208, 216. 
Astor, John Jacob, ix, 5, 13, 

15. 76, 92-100, 206, 212, 214. 
Astoria, xi, 24, 77, 93, 94, 97, 

100. 
Astorians, 25, 32, 95, 104, 216. 
Atkinson, Gen. Henry, xiv, 

147. 
Audubon, xvii. 

Baker Bay, 23, 25, 93. 
Bannock Indians, 132, 159. 
Baranhofif, Count, 86. 
Battle of Fort M'Kenzie, xvi. 
Battle of Pierre's Hole, xv, 

113 et. seq. 
Bear river, xvi, 122, 142, 182, 

199. 
Beaver, 153, 209, 214, 215. 
Beaver, x, 76, 78, 86, 99. 
Bernard Pratte and Company, 

xiii, 102, 
Big Horn river, 149. 
Black, Captain, 94. 
Blackfeet Indians, x, xiv, xvii, 

36, 103, 113, 119, 126. 
Black Hills, 184, 189. 
Blue Mountains, 66, 199. 
Bonneville, Capt. Benjamin L,. 

E., XV, 106, 120, 141, 149, 

161, 197, 205, 208, 214, 216. 



Boone, Daniel, 39, 105. 
Bradbury, John, 37. 
Bridger, Fort, xvii, 216. 
Bridger, James, xv, 200, 209. 
Bull-boats, 150. 

Cache, meaning of, 65. 
Cache valley, xiv. 
Caldron Linn, 64, 71. 
Campbell, Robert, 105, no, 

142, 
Canton, 79, 87. 
Cappine, Antoine, 64, 
Carson, Alexander ("Kit"), 

40, 43. 59- 
Cass, Fort, 103, 189, 210. 
Catlin, George, xv, 211, 
Cerre, xv, 133, 142, 184, 213. 
Chardon, xvii. 
Cheyenne Indians, 54, 108, 
Chinook Indians, 23, 85. 
Chouteau, Auguste, Jr., x, 
Chouteau, Pierre, Jr., 211, 215. 
Chouteau, Pierre, Sr., x. 
Cimarron desert, xv. 
Clark, William, x. 
Clarke, John, 76, 78, 83, 91, 

95- 

Coles, 21. 

Columbia, ix, 8. 

Columbia Fishing and Trad- 
ing Company, 196. 

Columbia Fur Company, xiii, 
xiv, 103. 

Columbia river, ix, xvi, 21, 23, 
58, 76, 97. 

Comanche Indians, xv. 

Comcomly, 23, 85, 93. 

Congress, xi, 97, loi, 212. 

Coulter, John, x, 39. 



2ig 



220 



Index 



Crooks, Ramsay, xvi, 65-70, 
74, 78, loi, 104, 211, 214, 215. 

Crow Indians, 55, 107, 142, 
157, 189, 199. 

Dalles, The, 68. 

Day, John, 67, 74, 132. 

De Smet, Father, xvi. 

Digger Indians, 182. 

Disappointment, cape, 22, 77, 

93- 
Distillery at Fort Union, xvi, 

213. 
Dodge, Colonel, xvi. 
Dorion, Pierre, 36, 46, 95-97. 

Essex, 88. 

Falkland islands, 17. 
Farnham, T. J., 200. 
Fitzpatrick, Thomas, xv, iii, 

149, 200, 209. 
Flathead Indians, 112, 136. 
Floyd, Fort, xiv. 
Fontenelle, I/Ucien, 109, 119. 
Fraeb, Henry, xv, 209. 
Fremont, Gen. J. C, xvi, xvii. 

Gallatin, Albert, 98. 

George, Fort, 94. 

Gervais, John Baptiste, xv, 

134. 
Godin, Antoine, 113. 
Godin river, 134. 
Grande Ronde river, 67. 
Grand Portage, 3. 
Gray, Captain, ix, 8, 9. 
Great Salt Lake, xiv, 141, 210. 
Green river, xvi, 58, 109, no, 

138, 151, 210. 

Hall, Fort, xvi, 200. 

Harvey, Alexander, xvii. 

Harvey, Primeau, and Com- 
pany, xvii. 

Henry, Andrew, x, xiii, 36, 60, 
104. 

Hoback, 40, 61, 96. 

Hodgkiss, 133, 159. 

Honolulu, 90. 



Hood, Mount, 9. 

Hudson Bay Company, ix, xi, 

xvii, 2, 97, 100, 137, 199, 201, 

216. 
Humboldt lakes, 182. 
Hunt, W. P., xi, II, 33, 35, 46- 

48, 64, 68, 79, 86 et seq., 95, 

99, 104, 146. 

Independence, Mo., in, 216. 
Irving, Washington, v, 206. 

Jackson Hole, 117. 
Jackson, President, 206. 
John Day river, 199. 
Jones, Benjamin, 40. 
Jones and Immel, xiii. 

Kosato, 127. 

Ladoga, 182. 
I,amazee, 26. 
Lark, xi, 90, 99. 
Leavenworth, Colonel, xiii, 

147. 
Leavenworth, Fort, 196, 213, 
Le Clerc, 96. 

Lee, Jason and Daniel, xv. 
Le Lande, Baptiste, x. 
Lewis, James, 25, 29. 
Lewis and Clark, x, 9, 36, 109. 
Lisa, Manuel, x, xii, 36, 46, 

102. 
Long, Major S. H., xii. 
Louisiana Purchase, ix:. 

M'Clellan, Robert, 65, 69, 77, 

78, 102. 
M'Dougal, Duncan, 11, 17, 32, 

77, 79, 84, 91- 
M'Kay, Alexander, 11, 12, 17, 

25, 198. 
M'Kenzie, Donald, 11, 35, 65, 

69. 77, l^etseq., 91, 95. 
M'Kenzie, Fort, xvi, 103, 210. 
M'Kenzie, Kenneth, xv, xvi, 

103, 183, 210, 212. 
M'Tavish, John G., 79, 82, 85, 

91- 



Index 



221 



Mackenzie, Alexander, ix. 
Mackinac, 2, 35, 46, iii, 214. 
Mackinaw Company, xi, 4, 7, 

lOI. 

Madison, President, 79, 98. 

Malade river, 133. 

Malgares, x. 

Mandan Indians, xvi, 43. 

Marquesas Islands, 89. 

Matthieu, 122, 131, 133. 

Maxent, Laclede, and Com- 
pany, ix. 

Maximilian, Prince of Wied, 
xvi. 

May Dacre, 196, 200. 

Medicine Lodge valley, 149. 

Miller, Joseph, 61. 

Minnetarees, 43. 

Missouri Fur Company, x, xiii, 
55, 102. 

Mojave Indians, xiv. 

Montei-ey, 183. 

Montero, 184, 199, 205. 

Montreal, i, 2, 6, 35. 

Nadowa, 36. 

Neweetee Nootka Sound), xi, 

26. 
New Archangel, 28, 86. 
Nez Perce Indians, XV, 112, 122, 

136, 162. 
Nicollet, J. N., xvi. 
Northern Department, 7, 214. 
Northrop, Captain, 90. 
Northwest Brigade, 82. 
Northwest Fur Company, ix, 

xi, 3, 6, ID, 15, 25, 85, 97, 

100. 
Nuttall, Thomas, 37, 197 

O'Fallon, Benjamin, xiv, 147. 
Okanagan river, 71. 
Omaha Indians, 40. 
Oregon Trail, 108, 216. 

Pacific Fur Company, xi, 11, 

95, 100, 102. 
Pedler, 90, 95. 
Fhosbe, 88. 



Pierre Chouteau, Jr., and Com- 
pany, xvii, 215. 
Pierre, Fort, xv, 211. 
Pierre's Hole, 109. 
Pike, Zebulon Montgomery, 

X. 

Pilcher, Joshua, xii. 
Popo Agie, 149. 
Porter, Commodore, 88. 
Portneuf, 159, 181, 199. 
Powder river, 150. 
Pratte, Chouteau, and Com- 
pany, xvi, 215. 
Provost, Etienne, xiii. 
Purcell, James, x. 

Raccoon, xi., 89, 91. 

Reed, John, xi, 39, 64, 99, 71, 
81, 95, 102. 

Rendezvous, xiii. 

Renville, Joseph, xiii. 

Rezner, Jacob, 40, 61, 96. 

Robinson, Edward, 40, 61, 96. 

Rocky Mountain Fur Com- 
pany, XV, xvi, 105, 113, 138, 
200, 209, 214. 

Rose, Edward, 54, 146. 

Russian-American Fur Com- 
pany, ix, xvii. 

St. Charles, 37. 

St. Louis, 35, 102, 215. 

St. Paul island, 86. 

Salmon river, 121, 133, 

Sandwich Islands, 88. 

Santa Fe, ix, xiii. 

Selkirk, Lord, xi. 

Seton, Alfred, 81. 

Shahaptan, 79. 

She-wee-she, 175. 

Shoshone Indians, 67, 74, 

139- 
Sinclair, 112. 
Sioux Indians, 40. 
Smallpox, xvi. 
Smith, Jedediah S., xiv, 216. 
Smith, Jackson, and Sublette, 

xiv, XV, 209. 
Snake Indians, 60. 



222 



Index 



Snake river, 59, 62, 159, 167, 

210. 
South pass, xvii, 108, 142, 

216. 
Southwest Fur Company, xi, 

lOI. 

Sowle, Captain, 76. 
Spokane river, 25. 
Stephens, Alfred K., 117. 
Stewart, Capt. W. D., 198. 
Stone, Bostwick, and Com- 
pany, xiii, 102. 
Stuart, David, 12, 25, 74, 78, 

83, 95- 
Stuart, Robert, xi, 12, 71, 75, 

78, loi, 104. 
Sublette, Milton G., xiv, 113, 

134, 149, 188, 200, 209. 
Sublette, William L., xiv, 105, 

no, 124. 

Tahmaahmaah, 18, 19. 
Teton basin, xv. 
Teton mountains, 58, 62, 117. 
Teton pass, 60. 
Thompson, David, ix. 
Thorn, Captain Jonathan, 12, 

14 et seq., 26. 
Todd, Isaac, 79, 82. 
Tonquin, xi, 12, 13, 15, 68, 

99. 198- 
Townshend, J. K., 197. 



Umatilla river, 68. 

"U. M. O.," xiv, 210, 214. 

Union, Fort, xiv, xv, 103, 193, 

211, 213. 
Upper Missouri Outfit, xiv, 

103. 
Utah Lake, xiv. 

Vancouver (explorer), 8. 
Vancouver, Fort, xii, xiv, 100, 
172, 200. 

Walker, I. R., xv, 141, 182, 

216. 
Walla Walla Indians, 75. 
Walla Walla river, 83, 95, 172. 
Weekes, Stephen, 22, 30. 
Western Department, xiii, loi, 

102, 214. 
Whitman, Marcus, xv, xvii. 
Willamette river, xii, 172. 
William, Fort, 3, 4. 
Wind river, xv, 57, 205. 
Wind River mountains, xvii, 

58, 151. 
Wish-ram, 68, 72, 81. 
Wyeth, N. J., xv, no, 149, 

185 et seq., 200, 209, 213, 

216. 

Yellowstone, xv, 210. 
Yellowstone Expedition, xiv. 
Yosemite, 182. 



Knickerbocker Literature Series 

Prepared as Supplementary Reading for the 
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Edited by FRANK LINCOLN OLMSTED 

I. Episodes from ♦« The Winning of the West " 

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a. Abraham Lincoln : His Boyhood and Early Man- 
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3. The Fur Traders of the Columbia River and the 
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The first group in the series will comprise four volumes devoted 
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